famous, not trying to bash you, but these are basic things that every roofing company owner should know how to do…you got a lot to learn as far as the workmanship part goes
Tar and mesh on a chimney. EWWWWWWWW
I know you. I tear your flashing off on about 40% of my jobs. It is a pain in the ass and I have to install my counter up way high to cover all the bullchit mess that will never come off the chimney. Liberty has given you good advice, get the certainteed MSA book. And check out this stuff too, if you really are serious about roofing…
Having read several of Famous’ posts, methinks he is either REALLY dumb or pulling our collective chains and trolling for responses to his spurious questions.
Coming up with doing a “3 course” on a chimney during a discussion about “J” flashings (what?) ; worried about being too expensive but then coming up with the stark realization that their is a near consensus to use IWS under step flashings so THAT must be a good idea (really?). And finally, he’s “considering the prospect of clogging up the channel of J flashing even though its caulked”? What does that mean? Also, “I don’t trust glue or caulk to hold step flashing in place”? Come on. Who would trust that method of attachment? And finally, the insistance on using the word “tar” to described roofing cement. Tar?
Famous, get Certainteed’s or some other reputable manufacturer’s installation guide book to study the basics of roof installation. These guide books will help you understand the basics of roof assembly. Once these are ingrained into your everyday knowledge you will be able to understand what needs to be done at a minimum when confronted with standard roof construction details. When confronted with a non-standard detail then you will know what is required to be done and be able to think on your feet and complete a job properly.
Just me $0.02 worth. Flame away.
the counter flashing then just wraps around the wings on the back pan.
Famous, here’s the thing. No matter how good you THINK you are at roofing, there is always someone better. This applies to everyone. There are always people with better ways, and sometimes just different ways, equally as good but maybe more efficient. Keep an open mind. There is an infinite amount to learn. It wasn’t until a few years ago that I really became serious about roofing, and the guys on this site have been an enormous wealth of knowledge for me. Some of them are harsh critics but the advice is largely solid.
Old dogs can learn new tricks, but only if he is not a stubborn old dog.
Strange how your corners are on the back pan. looks unfinished. None like that out here, the counterflashing is usually lead around here as well, the reglet caulk I usually use Tremco Dymonic with the color to match the joint “limestone typiclly”. I do like how the counterflashing is steped though.
hey nice job shingle nailer. I’ve see you are using an old couch cushion. I’ve seen guys on u tube using it. What exactly is the purpose for it? The only thing i can think of is that its easy on the knees and prob doesn’t scuff the shingles. Its something i haven’t seen before and i am always interested in new tricks thanx
we have had this conversation before, I know how you feel about the wings. It is something I learned from Frank, and has served me well. It just makes a lot of sense to me to do it that way, and I haven’t had the first problem with it. I have done lead wraps before too, and I like them. Part of the problem around here is the availability of lead. You can only buy in a 3’ x 3’ sheet and its quite expensive. I’m originally from your neck of the woods and buying in a roll for a reasonable price is nice up there. Its just one of those unexplicable regional differences.
yeah foamies are where its at. I’m sure others will chime in. I like a 5" thick one. Easy on the knees, easy on the shingles(especially on hot days) and they help you stick to the roof. I can stand straight up on a 12 pitch on one of them. not that I make a habit of that.
I’ve found that the cushions work for stacking some slates during repairs, and placed on my sunny side, keeps some of the reflected heat off me on hot days.
If I have to set tools down for a few moments, or longer, I put them between the cushions. Slate too.
Picking up a slate ripper that’s been lying on the slate for 10 minutes will create blisters.
We have a lot of 3/12 and 4/12 slate roofs here too. I’ll use them to change positions on the slate sometimes. Hook ladders don’t work everywhere, and jacks don’t give you anything to work off of on low pitches.
Here are a couple of old chimney pix.
I forgot to mention. Done correctly like this, the folded metal protects the corner from the wind blown rain, and settling won’t cause leaks. That has to be taken into account when you put a roof on expected to last 100’s of years.
Did ya notice there’s no cricket either?
Just me but I apply I&W around chimneys,side walls,valleys and pipes.it’s figured in to the cost of the roof.on your step just put a good bend on it keep it pressed in why you nail it and you should be great.it’s how I have been doing it for years with great results. As far as tar I don’t think it’s needed
Same here…I always wrap my chimneys with I&W shield, caulk the top of it, then step and counter flash…pretty good flashing shangle nailer, I definitely like the stepped counter rather than straight panning it, I need to take a pics of mine
As far as the cushion goes, A good way for me to check my brakes on my truck is to see an old couch or loveseat sitting on the side of the road…Ill be pulled over so fast with razor knife in hand it would make your head spin…Not only do these things provide comfort, but they wont slide underneath you on a steep roof…I carry two small cushions on steep roofs and walk my way up using them…In my opinion, cushions are a roofer’s #1 tool
Hey thanks max and shingle nailer. I will be keeping my eye out know for some old cushions. Actually looking forward to the first jacker of the year to try it out. Never seen anyone around my parts ever use them. I might get some strange looks or laughed at but i think i will have the last laugh
Step flashing prevents water from running under the shingles along perpendicular surfaces that are prone to gathering water. Continuous flashing is really no different from having no flashings at all. Think like a raindrop.
I use couch type sponges on anything up to a 7/12,not necessarily for me but for the shingles.I use them to sit on when I am in a place for an extended amount of time.(Counter flashing and skylights) they help against scuffing and chewing the shingles in the heat.
For steep roofs I use wedge sponges.They work great on anything up to a 12/12.They costabout $25 per sponge but well worth it.I use mine up about every 4 months.
The reason I don’t use couch sponges on steep is they (sponge) roll.
It’s always amusing to me that the people here doing sub par work are the quickest to point the finger at someone else for doing the same thing. Keep posting those pics too, lol. Good stuff!
I think if I could veto one person from posting here it would be you. You never have anything good to say, ever. Don’t you ever get tired of telling everyone else how much they suck? Is this really how you go through your life? As Mr. Perfect in your own mind?
I prefer liquid roof to you tar monkey, really. Go suck.
Everyone around here uses cushions/ foam and has for
a long time. Let them laugh. It works and it works good!
Shangle nailer, I think your flashing job looks good. I dont see anything wrong with it. I would be proud of it too! I dont flash it just like that and everyone has there own way. There is many ways to flash a chimney.
I would consider that flashing job on par with the best…
Would love to hear tarmonkeys thoughts on why he thinks its subpar. How come there is no context in his arguement?
Technically speaking, if a chimney is 30" wide or LESS, using the pan method for applying flashing behind (up-slope side) the chimney is acceptable. If MORE than 30" wide then the full-sloped cricket is required.
Source: TRI / WSRCA
(for the record, I prefer the full-sloped cricket if there is enough room to install one)
I’m wondering if any of those comments about chimney width are because I posted the pic of the 100+ year old back pan still behind that old chimney?
That’s either the original, or one that’s 1/2 as old. Hard to tell it’s true age. It had been painted and generally taken care of. Even without felt, or a cricket, those boys back then know how to keep the water out. I’ve seen some chimneys 72" across that never leaked until the pan rusted out.
I was there to measure for new copper built-in-gutters.