- Metal roof:
Sloped roof valley:
Sloped roof valley:
Can’t see them well at all, but I’ll the first two a shot and the third I can see at all… Oil canning in the first picture caused by overfastening? Maybe caused by coming in contact with ice and water barrier.Valley draining into an already improperly flashed paraphet wall in the second shot, not to mention how is it fastened? With nails? Clips solve the problem of expansion and contraction. Metal in contact with the ice and water barrier again?.. should have a slip sheet under it, even red rosin paper would work.Like I said, I can’t see the third at all and thats more commercial than I would get involved in anyhow.
Aside from the kinks in the roof panels that can easily lead to leaks, whats wrong with 1?
2- I see no cleats on the edges of the valley, a one piece L flashing, and I cannot see the front of the parapet being flashed from here.
3-no solid blocking on the parapet, which leads to deflection, which leads to leakage, unless, of course you run the membrane up and all the way out, which is usually spec’ed, but still want a solid structure there…
Thats the best Ive got.
Looks like a problem with the far roof decking.
That valley / parapet intersection needs a big soldered copper pan at the bottom.
I’m with aaronb, Edge blocking.
I must be blind…it looks like the gutter is pulling the roof down on the far side.
ive seen alot of these standin seams on rounded roofs, and i think the buckling comes from bending the panels on theese rounded decks.
exspecially that type of panel. the ones that arent supposed to oil can.
ive laid those panels before. their a pain.
for curved roofs, we use curved panels.
However, the problem with this roof actually stems from multiple installation problems, most notably the fact they took roll-formed structural panels and installed them with a twist.
The roof may look really cool, but after the roofer was finished with the installation we were called in because of leaks. We found several problems with the roof, many of which we haven’t even discussed, i.e., open laps, missing cleats, etc…
How you guys like the screws at the end of the valley? :roll:
Felt? Hows about a low slope product under that big honkin coping, and although both lap methods are accepted by NRCA, I preferthe under-seam connectors also. What is the real name of those connectors? No looking in the book, either.
Are you talking about back-up plates?
Actually, I would prefer something along the lines of a vinyl membrane overtop the parapet, but felt would have at least been a step in the right direction.
As for the lap, according to SMACNA, they really needed to install a standing-seam lap, drive-cleat, back-up and cover plates, or a couple other approved laps. The lap joints definitely are going to fail in the future when that coping starts to expand and contract.