Starter Strips

#1

Hi All - I have been working with a couple of roofers to get estimates for my roof. The one I like did not mention starter strips on the eves and rakes. When i asked them, they said that its a marketing gimmick and that they use the regular shingles to cut them out and they look the same as starter strips.

Also, do you need ice and water shield and drip edge along the rakes. One roofer is suggesting that they do this on the eves and rakes, the other says that doing it on the rakes is overkill and unecessary and says that adding more than needed can make it a pain to remove/replace later on.

Is this true? Please provide your opinions…this is confusing.

Thanks

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#2

Cutting 3 tab for starter is just fine.

Can’t see ice & water being needed along the rakes. Some might have a personal preference for drip edge along the rakes but in general, probably not necessary.

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#3

Ok, thanks. The shingle being used is the CT landmark 30 yr (now lifetime)

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#4

we use 3 tab for starter as well. Its just fine, and perfectly acceptable.

Agreed… I/W on the rakes is a waste of time, and money.

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#5

The roofer is correct that you can use normal shingles and just cut off the bottom section. If it’s a 25 year shingle. If it’s a 30 year shingle then the roofer might spend a little more cutting those 30 year shingles up then getting 25 year shingles and cutting them up. The starter strip is only necessary on the eaves, not the rake. The ice and water sheild is really only necessary on the eaves (if you live in the northern section of the U.S.). Probably don’t need it on the rake’s. Be SURE you use Ice and Water shield in the valleys!!! Major problem area for most roofers.

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#6

starter strips are wider then an architectural shingle cut in half the long way and also have a strip of tar that will seal to the shingle below.

gaf.com/Roofing/Residential/ … ngles.aspx

ice and water on the eaves and valleys is a must in my book. but i may live in a different area then you. (ice and water on the rakes is over kill unless you have very high winds?)

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#7

as far as drip edge at the rakes…it depends what part of the country you are in. Roofing is very regional. We always do it. Look at all your neighbors houses to see whats the norm in your area. No ice & water shield at rakes. I have never seen a rake edge leak in my 24 years!

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#8

Thanks for all the replies so far. Since many have asked…I am in the Washington DC area…so we have all 4 seasons, high winds at times, rain, snow…but nothing to any extreme except for once in a while.

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#9

in my area there are a lot of old antique houses, so drip edge on the rakes would look terrible. Its almost never done unless maybee there is metal rake trim to cover but thats rare. On ashphalt shingle jobs we always run starters up the rake edge with 3/4" overhang.

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#10

We install drip to entire perimeter, eaves and rakes.
Ice eaves and valleys, not the rakes unless it intersects with the bottom of a low slop valley.
3-tabs cut down for starters is just fine. We also run them as bleeder strips up the rakes.

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#11

[quote=“Pro417”] The starter strip is only necessary on the eaves, not the rake. quote]

I have roofed alot of homes in the (417) that had rotted rakelines.The result of not using starter strips(IMO)I just figured out the culprit.Hahahaha.I also use moisture guard in valleys and along the gutterlines.I also use MG around the perimeters of chimneys and skylights.I also use MG around roof penetrations and roof openings.Overkill to some,But fine to me.I agree with RooferJ,some of the older homes with decorative moldings the use of DE is visually unappealing.[/quote]

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#12

dont use 3tab starters with demensional shingles,
use demensional shingles for demensional starters.
save the top peaces for the last shingle at the ridge.

gweedo

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#13

I would recommend you go to the CertainTeed
Put in your zipcode, and you can get the installation instructions on how to correctly install everything you need done on a roof.
I would also read about the CertainTeed integrity roofing system. A certified contractor with CertainTeed will know what you are talking about.

I would also read about how many inches the starter shingle should be installed.

Respectfully

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#14

Why use dimensional shingles for starters on dimensional shingles? Surely you are joking. Say it ain’t so.

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#15

any old shingle will work to cover the split where 2 shingles join but if you want them to really seal to the starter strip you need something that has some rigidness and a tar strip on it. mainly make shore what ever you use extends up past the nail line so no water leaks where the shingles but together. (over time in that gap between the shingles water and or uv rays can find its way in.)

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#16

[quote=“gweedo”]dont use 3tab starters with demensional shingles,
use demensional shingles for demensional starters.
save the top peaces for the last shingle at the ridge.

gweedo[/quote]

Full Archs? Seems to add alot of “Bulk” on the rakes and G-Line.IMO

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#17

[quote=“Roofmaster417”]

[quote=“gweedo”]dont use 3tab starters with demensional shingles,
use demensional shingles for demensional starters.
save the top peaces for the last shingle at the ridge.

gweedo[/quote]

Full Archs? Seems to add alot of “Bulk” on the rakes and G-Line.IMO[/quote]

You don’t use the full shingle you cut off the exposure, the same way you should be cutting off the exposure on the 3-tabs.

A lot of 3-tabs are too small to use as a starter strip.
A standard size 3-tab is too short and not tall enough to use as a starter for metric shingles.

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#18

You get greater linear footage using a precut starter strip than a 3 tab or dimensional shingle. From a cost persective it makes more sense t use precut.

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#19

Why not just use the starter product that is made to match the shingle?

GAF: Prostarter
CT:Swiftstart

GAF Camelot I & II: Weatherblocker Starter
CT Grand Manor: High Performance Starter

and so on…

That’s what the stuff is made for, correct?

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#20

[quote=“keepitlow”]Why not just use the starter product that is made to match the shingle?

GAF: Prostarter
CT:Swiftstart

GAF Camelot I & II: Weatherblocker Starter
CT Grand Manor: High Performance Starter

and so on…

That’s what the stuff is made for, correct?[/quote]

I agree completely, some shingles you have to use the starter that goes with the system.

For your basic arch it is perfectly acceptable to cut your starters out of the field shingles, It used to say so right on the package and probably still does.

I suspect that many like to use 3-tabs for starters because 3-tabs are usually cheaper, and many incorrectly think that the 3-tabs don’t need to be cut thus saving time.

In the realm of doing it right or wrong IMO this (using 3-tabs for starters on a metric roof) is a minor wrong but wrong nonetheless.

It begs the question “if it is so easy to do it the right way why do it the wrong way”?
After that question you gotta ask “if they are doing something this simple the wrong way what else are they doing the wrong way”?

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