I had a standing seam metal roof installed recently. I’m concerned about the design. I’d like to hear from any standing seam experts about the design of the valley and the slope transitions. I don’t see how the water gets into the valley and am concerned about debris buildup in both the valley and slope transitions. Any help would be appreciated.
It looks like the didn’t wrap the valley cuts and “hook” into the valley metal. It appears they went on top…surely they didn’t do that i hope.
Can you post a couple more pics, one further away and one closer up the valley in the top pic.
Not sure exactly what they did but I can’t say I like it. Yes it does like it would trap debris. Is it inside a j channel?
Here are a couple more pictures. I think they used a W valley and then bent another piece to go up under the panels and then flap back over the end of the panels. I am not a roofer, but it just doesn’t look right. The slope transition is even more concerning. Water will flow down the panel, then go sideways in that same little flap design and then down through a slit cut in the flap every few feet. As you can see, that little flap is nothing more than a debris trap. I’m also concerned about the gap between each of the panels underneath that flap where the water is supposed to flow.
Thanks Islandroofing. I looked up a j channel and I don’t think that is what it is. I think they bent a piece of metal that goes back up under the panel and then flaps back over the end of the panel. As you can see from the pictures I took this morning, it is a debris catcher.
I’ve looked at your photos for a few minutes. I’ve installed most every type of metal system in my 30yrs. I’m not sure what is going on in this valley,. My closed fastener systems all have a 42" metal valley. I think something is foolish.
- Why would there be a splashed valley, if water can’t get to the valley?
- The disclaimer on this system should read, if there is a pine tree within 2 miles, do not install.
I could be wrong, but I believe you arent leaking because of underlayment. God, hope you have a good watershield. The transition, being bent up? That thought would never cross my mind. I’d throw a guy off the roof for mentioning it.
I’m old school and maybe this is some genius metal company. I’m willing to learn new methods, but I’m so confused on this one. I wish I could see the valley at the eave. Id like to see if it’s hemmed and how wide.
Can you move the debris at the bottom of the valley so we can see a bit better. It is absolutely incorrectly done, debris shouldn’t be hung up like that. The SS panel should be on top of the valley metal, i sure hope am wrong but seeing a clear view of the bottom of the valley with no debris will help to see exactly what they did do. If this is the case the only solution is to remove the panels and install them as intended. They may or may not be able to reuse those panels.
After downloading the pic and zooming in, this marked area looks like its been cut.Inkedb1b8a14316c54337bb630b403861eb4d1ba5b4ff_LI|375x500
Here are a couple more pictures. Rooferama, It does not look like the valley is hemmed at the eave. andywrs, I have talked to the roofer and they have now agreed to remove the panels and fix it. I kind of feel like I am the roof designer or roof design police at this point and I am not really very comfortable with that. I am trying to decide whether to let them back on my roof or not.
Yep. That’s a mess. The metal isn’t even centered in the valley. You can see it, further up the roof. I’m sure this was a reroof, so I’m not going to pick them apart about a settling home. Looks like they’ll get training on your project.
The metal manufacture, should have an installation detail. Get one for you and them.
Thanks for the pics, the more we see the better.
This is SS 101, if they can’t get this right i am concerned about everything else. I would be only comfortable having them fix this if 1) the manufacturer was willing to do an inspection of the completed repairs or 2) a metal roofing contractor or roof consultant (familiar with SS) was going to inspect the roof after repairs were completed. I would withhold final payment until 1 or 2 is completed.
At the very least rooferama’s suggestion of the installation manual should be your starting point. If you can get a copy for them and require they fix the valleys according to the manual that may suffice. If that goes south then your pretty much stuck with option 1 or 2. Hold the entire balance until its completed properly. I will assume you owe 40% on completion, that is how we operate, but it is different in other parts of the country. I’m in a large market…Orange County, CA.
Who is the manufacturer of your panel.
Thanks andywrs. I really appreciate yours and rooferama’s input. The question of the manufacturer of the panels is another interesting question. On the insurance certification form I was provided by the roofer, it states that Englert is the manufacturer of the panels, but when I contacted Englert, they said that my roofer does not purchase materials from them. I believe that the roofer purchased an englert former and forms the panels onsite. The bizarre thing about this situation is that this roofer is highly rated and well respected in the community. My contact says that they have done hundreds of roofs and no one has ever questioned their details. I plan to go meet with the owner, take some of the input that I have received both from this forum and also from the metal roofing alliance and hope to get some answers and a plan that I am comfortable with. Thanks again for all of the input!
You don’t need to be an expert to know this just doesn’t make sense. Make them correct it.
Of course this looks wrong and it probably is.
But i must admit a few years ago i watched some commercial roofers on a nice New building install a really nice looking tall profile Standing seam roof and they installed all the hip and ridge FIRST.
It blew my mind.
No valleys though.
I still dont know how they did it exactly
maybe there are some new techniques out there.
I really want to know if this metal is holding water out by design or is the underlayment and previous roof underneath keeping water out?
Looks like the whole reason for this
Is to not have to seam The bottom of every panel.
What a dream if it works.
Im currently still recovering from a standing seam job myself.
I did the job without saw-horses
Which you kind of need to do a good and safe job of seaming the panel.
Here is a pic of my leg where i was seaming the panel while holding the panel between my legs with shorts on. Ouch!
Biggest cut of my life.
Didnt go get stitches.
It took 5 weeks just to BEGIN to form a scab.
Even with full health insurance,
I didnt try to get stitches for two weeks.
They said it was too late.
Damn it man, got to be more careful!
I do my hip and ridge first on standing seam as well. How it’s done is i install a metal j channel then hook the hip and ridge onto before any panels go on. Find it much quicker and less scratches that way. Then I box fold my panels so that any water that blows under has a solid wall that it can’t penetrate.
Triple antibiotic ointment - wound closure strips - super glue the closure strips to your skin. By the time that falls off you’ll be healed. Pretty much all they do at the clinic anyway.