Yeah, hehe but just a small one. You’re ok in my book.
i can handle it am a big boy now
I think I screwed this one up. Take a look at this photo. I can easily fix it. Should I run another coarse and drop the flashing on top of it. This would mean that a lot of the flashing will be showing and not covered up by shingles. The yellow line is the nail line. I’m having a problem figuring out when I should stop running shingles and drop the flashing on top. I was hoping for some tricks of the trade.
“I’m having a problem figuring out when I should stop running shingles and drop the flashing on top.”
You should run another course there before putting the boot on. You only want the “color” part of the shingles showing. What you did probably won’t leak, it just looks kind of funky.
Why did you get lead? I mean nothing wrong with lead but and aluminum/neoprene type boot is fine for asphalt and should give you a bigger coverage on the roof base than the lead. We do all our boots in copper which is nice because you can cheat the base a couple inches either way when you make it so what happened to you in that pic never happens. Another bad thing about lead is squirrels will eat the hell out of it and you’ll end up replacing it or boxing your boot with chicken wire. Lead is nice for ‘S’ tile and such but other than that I’ll pass on it.
Look, instead of mashing the top down with a hammer snip it in a circle, about every 1-1/4" straight down, almost to where the excess meets the pvc pipe. Then neatly wrap it tab by tab, nice and tight into the pipe. It will stop the birds from snickering as they fly over.
I’ll make the change today. I really don’t want any exposed nails. Is it fine to just nail the top flange and add roofing cement under the flashing? There will be no fasteners on the bottom. If I make the change, half of the flashing will be exposed. One side of the flashing is also a little longer than the other. I’m guessing this goes vertical and the narrower side goes horizontal. Is this correct?
Is it fine to just nail the top flange and add roofing cement under the flashing?
Generally I will nail a boot on the left and right, one nail each. Then put a piece of ice sheild over the flashing, making sure the top of your ice sheild goes up under your exisiting underlayment. This way it’s sealed nice and when the shingles are run there are no exposed nails. You can run a small bead of your goop of choice under the boot but it shouldn’t be needed. Tar will make a later repair difficult and also keep in mind that too much tar will cause shingles to blister.
One side of the flashing is also a little longer than the other. I’m guessing this goes vertical and the narrower side goes horizontal. Is this correct?
depending on the shingle courses i normally run then under until the top edge of the shingle is even with the pipe or slightly above then i run the rest over this way you do not have to use as much cement or silicone to seal up the nails in the plange at the bottom i have yet to have one leak that way
some like to bull the piss out it with one under and the rest over but sometimes that means cutting the first on over completely in half and that will leak with time unless it is bulled and membraned under it
( the one in the picture is wrong it needed one more shingle under it)
u didnt need to batter the lead in like that youve runied it cut that bashed bit off will look way neater
I changed it this morning. I haven’t bent the flashing into the pipe yet. I really didn’t understand your explanation of how to do it.
u dont have to bend the lead into the pipe atall, buy a seprate part its called a collar and its made of plastic
ehow.com/how_115930_repair-r … shing.html driffrent kind of pipe flashing but explains what i mean with one course over the flashing , u can clearly see the lay out in that wee video
screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro … 5&id=17772 thats the collar
screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro … 4&id=11280 thats the terminal that sits on top
I still don’t see why the lead flashing as pictured can’t be tucked into the pipe neatly. This should seamlessly shed the water without using any plastic. I’m not a fan of using plastic material for roofing.
I used lead flashing for my vent pipes. But I was forced to use counterflashing because the vent pipe was too tall. Even then, I used lead counterflashing.
i would also shape the lead into the pipe top,no plastic for me,setting the boot in a bead of elastomer helps prevent wind driven rain,done properly there should be no need of a repair
u cut the pipe flashing short and leave a bit of pipe showing then up the collar down over the flashing ,your making a simple job a lot harder than it is, its meant to be quick n simple plus look good