Re-roof in Florida: 60's BUR for Arch shingles


Got polystick on all valleys and all eaves, full 36in width. Got 19in #30 felt and several full layers of felt up the slope as suggested here overlapping each run.


Need some advice on this transition and how to felt and shingle around it later. Also how to waterproof a pipe in middle of one of the valleys (pic in next post)


I got 3 sheets of polystick so it was enough for all 4 valleys and all eaves


The only permanent method on that pipe would be a custom soldered copper flashing.
It is much easier to move the pipe a foot over.


Did one side yesterday, haven’t nailed permanently but all felt is secure

Does this look correct?

I still have to do 6 on center at all laps and 12 on center in the field between rows of 6in spaced nails…right? That’s gonna be a lot of nailing haha



You gotta get that stinger gun…
And when you lay any future felt,
Nail one side with about 3 fasteners in a 2 inch circle.
Roll it out tight and give it a little kick to stretch it before you nail the other side.
Dont do the full nailing to code until the felt is flat from the sun as it can get.

Also, when it comes to nailing the shingles,
Dont just shingle over a large wrinkle.
Slice the wrinkle with your knife through the center of it first.
I know you feel it defeats the purpose of all your hard work,
But nailing over a wrinkle of 30 pound felt is worse.
Keep that felt covered with tarp until you shingle
To keep it from wrinkling every night.


Some progress from today




Simplex manual hand hammer hahaha good times

Tomorrow 12 on center in the field, and valley metal…then call for inspection (fingers crossed) :hugs:


No, you are doing excellent!!
Too good actually.
What did you do, use a tape measure for each one? Hahaha


So glad I don’t roof in Florida.


Thank you for the compliment, if it weren’t for you guys here I am sure it would look like crap

Hahahah I just guestimated less than 6in, most are 4-5in apart. Field is 10in apart, 11 max. Nailing done!

It’s my home, I figured I go slow and overkill it and not have to worry about roof for a while. In the meantime my AC compressor broke so I had to drop 1900 on new 3ton system today. Savings from roofing myself are already coming handy hehehe

Now to figure out metal valleys, still have doubts how to fold them at the top and over each other where two valleys meet…

Roof lover you got dinner and drinks on me man, thank you so much for advice and your time!!! :call_me_hand:


Oh no, i hope it didnt break because you nailed into the copper AC line…
It has happened to me many times.
We now identify where the AC goes into the house,
Especially on these low slope roofs,
And mark the decking and felt with crayon
To NOT nail in this area( the pipe line)
Pressed incorrectly up against the bottom of the sheeting.
I have had it happen with standard 1 1/4 roofing nails once, two times at least with 8d.


I don’t think so, compressor seized, I replaced it 3 years ago already. I was only nailing simplex, they don’t go deep. Old system was working but on its last legs, time for new one. Friend has account at Tropic Supply so it was cheaper than store price


Just bring the valley well past the top.
And then cut a relief to the center of the valley top.
It will all
Fold over well after that.
Dont cut the relief out at the top and fold it over until you have nailed all the rest of the valley on both sides.


Not too enthused about how valleys came out, think I made a mistake and didn’t fold them right


Not a Florida roofer, but we put the underlay on top of the valley metal.


You did ok i think.
For a very first timer for this vally metal.

But for me there wouldnt be a wrinkle anywhere.
It would be totally tight every where,
Totally smooth everywhere.

Wrinkly vally metal installation causes the nails in the shingles to back out and cause problems later in its life.
If you can walk on it anywhere and feel it move, bounce or make a sound, its not right.