You did a very thorough and proper analysis of the misquoted scenario from most other contractors points of view.
That was the first thought that came to my mind, was the garage is not included in the house “Liveable” square footage.
Many home owners call in for an estimate and immediately inform me they already know the square footage of their home, but rarely do they account for all of the items you listed.
Welcome to this forum. It seems like you now how to properly estimate.
Also, Kev, don’t you have any markup on material costs? If I have to spend an extra $600.00 for an upgraded material, their has to be an accounting for the OH & P.
The price seemed in line with proper calculations for the upgrade.
Definitely choose the 50 year Tamko, but make sure that is what you are getting, plus the specialty Hip and ridge Cap accessories.
I don’t know if you’ve done this project yet or not but since a lot of the insurance money in Houston is still coming in, and mortgage companies are slowing things down considerably, I thought you might still be working on your decision. So…
We currently have a 20 yr roof that is 5 years old. Insurance only covers this 20 yr type of replacement of course. We are also looking into upgrading to protect from future damage *
You should try really hard to work out the upgrade. A laminated shingle is not impervious to wind damage, but it is far more resistant than a strip shingle like you have now. On a steep roof, the difference is not as pronounced, but there is a difference nonetheless. You said you have a high deductible - the laminated roof may well save you a roof replacement in the next storm, and therefore save you another deductible.
The house is ~2400 sqft+garage and the roof has a pitch from 8 to 10 in different locations, current estimats show about 50 squares. *
The people who have been doubting the accuracy of this measurement should themselves be doubted.
First, I trust that you have compared the roofers’ measurements and the adjuster’s measurements, and would comment if they were substantially different.
Second, for the benefit of the naysayers, 2400 (living space) plus 450-700 for garage, plus 10% for porches, entries, overhangs and double-overhangs, plus 20% for 8:12 pitch factor or 30% for 10:12, plus 15% ridge/starter/waste (will be more if roof is badly “cut up”), means:
best case = 42 1/3 sq
worst case = 51 sq
Unless you have tiny 6" overhangs, no porches or covered entries, and a 1-car garage, your numbers look reasonable.
*So now on to my question. The roofer is offering 20 yr ELK. I can pay $1500 more for 30 yr ELK, or he states he has 50 yr tamko left over from an apt complex. He says he can charge me the same for the 50 year as the 30yr ELK. Is this a game or sound like it could be on the up and up? *
$1500 more for 50 squares is $30/square additional for the upgrade. In the Houston area, as well as Dallas, the cost difference to the roofer currently is $20-$25/square. It sounds like your roofer is just adding in normal margin as any businessman would for his product.
As for the leftover 50’s, it’s a great deal if they are in the original wrappers. First-run and end-run shingles are sold off at very low prices, without warranties. Of course, if you don’t have at least FHA-minimum attic venting (and most roofs don’t even come close), then you won’t have a warranty anyway. Make sure you don’t end up in this trap.
The 50 squares of 50-yr could be for many reasons, but the most likely reason is that he did a job where the insurance adjuster over-measured, bought all the material, and chose not to return the leftovers because he was getting paid for it. I’ve done a few post-job supplements correcting an adjuster’s high measurements or high counts (vents, etc.). They don’t want to process those supps because documenting that they came in high does not sit well with the insurance company. So my guess is he just decided to sit on it.
Bottom line - no, it’s not a game.
Would I be crazy to go 20 year? Is 1500 a fair upgrade price for 30 year? Would I be crazy to not do the 50 yr upgrade in this situation? *
In my opinion, Yes, Yes, and Yes.
Furthermore, if you can don’t already have a radiant barrier inside the attic or radiant barrier decking, then look into Polaralum underlayment instead of felt. It’s a little over twice the price of #30 felt (which you should use on a steep roof, for safety), but this is definitely the time to do it. I don’t believe Tamko has come out with a statement on it, but Owens Corning has officially stated that it does not void their warranties. Atlas verbally told me the same. You’re looking at $1000-$1500 more, but this is by far the best time to do it.
Thanks in advance.*
You’re welcome, although I suspect I may be too late.[/quote]