Puzzled as to what to do about our leaking roof

This weekend we discovered that our roof is leaking. The house is 12 years old and has at least a 25-year shingle on it. We bought the house five years ago. Upon looking in the attic today, we noticed that one large section of the roof was wet and water was wicking down from about one-third of the way up. Inside the house, the water was coming in around a window moulding. The section of roof with the leak is on the South-facing section of the roof. There are no obvious signs with respect to the shingles that are bad. What is the best way to determine whether or not we need a repair or a replacement? Thanks for your help!

Show us pictures or call a local roofer out.

Location? In my area local builders were buying 15 yr. shingles from small manufacturer that only lasted 8-10 yrs, and look just like 25 yr 3 tabs…some 25 yr. 3 tabs only last 12-15 yrs…especially without proper ventilation…

With a break in the rain, hubby crawled up on a ladder to get a better idea about shingle condition and found that there were a lot of cracks. Looks like we need a a new roof. I’m trying to find out what type of shingles are up there now.

Internet research last night revealed that our location (Windsor, Ontario, Canada - right across the river from Detroit) is prime for low shingle life due to extreme temperature changes throughout the year. Opinions?

What do you guys recommend we install in this case? Asphalt, rubber, rubberized asphalt? We have had bad experience before with fiberglass - lasting nowhere near to their warranty lifetime and being given a hard time by the company to get it fixed.

Thanks

A quality installation of a Certainteed or GAF/Elk shingle will last upwards of 20 yrs.

You probably had a bad installation of poor quality shingles.
You may have ventilation issues that need to be addressed also.

Over 90 % of all shingle roof installations are installed without adequate ventilation.

Therefor, over 90 % are not installed per the manufacturers specifications and the warranties are Null and Void from Day 1.

Most manufacturers higher quality architectural shingles are made with a fiberglass reinforcement core and are a high quality.

My preferences are equal between the first two choices of Tamko Heritage, Certainteed Landmark, then the 3rd choice would be the GAF/Elk line.

Opinions? Everyone has one. But, from all of the Forums I am on, this is typically the most commonly recommended choices.

NOTE: That Owens Corning and IKO did not make the list.

Ed

I have been in the detroit area for many years. MOst of the problems are poor quality shingles along with lack of ventilation. Just watch what you buy.

Best advise i can give you is to post your quotes here and we can help you figure out what to do. Hope the helps GTP out

A look in the attic showed that this problem is definitely new. The wood looks good and there is no staining. We have loads of vents and the attic seems really well ventilated, so I’m opting for the shoddy installation of the sub-par shingles. He patched the cracked shingles where the water was coming in and after the remnants of Ike blew through this evening, it seems to have fixed 90% of the problem. A bit of relief until we get some quotes this week. Thanks for the advice and I’ll have more product-focused questions shortly.
Cheers

We need a pic.

take a pic from the yard.

then maybe photoshop an arrow pointing down to the roof where you think you saw the water in the attic.

You’ll get plenty of professional opinions from this.
so far, we cant help you.

If you say there were cracked shingles, than that probably answers your own questions.
But a roof close-up pic of that too would be nice.

Thanks for all the info, guys. We really appreciate it since this will be the first roof we’ve had to replace.

We have our first contractor of about four coming out tomorrow. What items are important to have listed specifically in the quote?

Thanks much!

a) remove excisting roof to bare wood.
b) install 30 lb underlayment.
c) Install new edge metal, .
d) install new 30 yr dimensional shingle roof system.
e) Clean up and haul away all job debri.
f) Replace and/or renail decking and fasha
just to name a few

gweedo.

[quote=“gweedo”]a) remove excisting roof to bare wood.
b) Replace and / or renail decking and fascia as needed.
c) install 30 lb underlayment (or whatever product is called for based on a combination of your region, your climatalogical conditions, the pitch of your slope & your applicable building code, as well as your preferences if you desire an ‘advanced’ underlayment).
d) Install new edge metal if you cannot reuse any of the older metal that is or was in place. If you didn’t have any drip edge, omit this step unless you wish to go so far as to add this in…
e) install new shingle roof system (if you’re doing a partial repair vs. total re-roofing, then match your existing type & color of shingles as best as possible).
f) Clean up and if you don’t have a truck or a friend who has one, hire someone to haul away all job debris.
g) If any of this repair comes kind of close to a roof penetration such as a chimney, a valley or a wall, you may want to consider having a professional do the work vs. taking this up on your own. Especially in the case of a valley.

just to name a few

gweedo.[/quote]

I did a little editing for gweedo. :wink:

[quote=“RanchHandRoofing”]

[quote=“gweedo”]a) remove excisting roof to bare wood.
b)[/quote]

Replace and / or renail decking and fascia as needed.
c) install 30 lb underlayment (or whatever product is called for based on a combination of your region, your climatalogical conditions, the pitch of your slope & your applicable building code, as well as your preferences if you desire an ‘advanced’ underlayment).
d) Install new edge metal if you cannot reuse any of the older metal that is or was in place. If you didn’t have any drip edge, omit this step unless you wish to go so far as to add this in…
e) install new shingle roof system (if you’re doing a partial repair vs. total re-roofing, then match your existing type & color of shingles as best as possible).
f) Clean up and if you don’t have a truck or a friend who has one, hire someone to haul away all job debris.
g) If any of this repair comes kind of close to a roof penetration such as a chimney, a valley or a wall, you may want to consider having a professional do the work vs. taking this up on your own. Especially in the case of a valley.

just to name a few

gweedo.

I did a little editing for gweedo. ;)[/quote]

Gweedo said it better…
Why does it have to be complicated?

Well, first of all Gweedo had them nailing decking & replacing “fasha” AFTER they put on shingles.

Secondly, he has them installing 30# felt where this may not be required.

Third, he has them installing drip edge & it may not be required.

Fourth, gweedo Has them putting in a patch of 30 year / dimensional shingles when we don’t know if this is what they actually have.

My point is, if this homeowner knew what they were doing & didn’t need THE RIGHT directions, they wouldn’t have come here asking for help.

The way I see it, there’s no sense in giving them a puzzle with mixed up parts.

i had a funny feelin bout that last post.
so i got a little lazy.,

gweedo.