how would you flash a 6x6 post centered with a valley that ends at the post? the runoff hits the post on the corner (at a 45).
Why is there a post in the middle of your valley?
It shouldn’t be there to begin with…
kick it away from the post with a diverter
If it MUST remain in that location, then I would Grace Ice and Water shield all four sides and fabricate a lead flashing to encapsulate the post, starting from the lower portion and working my way up the two sides with a lead pan style flashing on the top side where the water flowage emanates from.
But, I would do anything that I could to re-locate the post before I would do that.
post can’t be moved, it’s supporting a overhang over the front door. how do i post pics?
We have chimneys in the middle of valleys. You just flash the post like you would a chimney.
Cut a reglet in the post just like you would for counterflashing anything else.
this is the situation i am faced with. the cedar is just a trim. it needs to be reflashed underneath
I would build a saddle/cricket to move the water away from it. Another smart design from an engineer
The Architect that designed that should be killed and eaten… :twisted:
I like Ed’s solution of fabricating a metal flashing and re-doing the valley that drains into it.
All soldered together would be best IMO.
I’m thinking photoshop, 2 or 3 people should have already smeared tar all over it by now.
I think, that is a work for a “sheet metal guy”
The same problem (well the chimney is a little bigger than your post) but the post could be “fixed” the same way!
It looks a little dirty after the roofer finished the tile work
It has been installed 10 or so years ago, NO call-back yet!
I DID NOT use Caulk or other sealants… Probably, thats why it is still water proof.
They get there 10-15 ft. snow in the winter which stays there for 5-6 months (it is in the high Alps in Austria)
So the flashing, that goes up the chimney, is 8 inches (which is a standard rule in Europe)
and has a 1 inch hem (also standard) against “blowing snow”
The detail connections are double locked standing seams (sorry, also standard)
Nice job on the chimeny. We have chimneys in the center of the valleys too.
That post is no different.
Nice metal work…I too believe that caulk is not required if a true mechanic installs the metal…I have had H.O.s ask why I don’t use caulk…Reputation lasts a life time,caulk does not…
This is not a diy job,if you have to ask what to do ,you are not capable of how to do…cal a pro,and make sure he uses metal,and not tar…