I’ll try to answer some of your questions but excuse me as I’ll just go after each question.
[quote=“don222”]Just had a new roof (total tear off) with dimensional singles on a walkable bungalow from a licensed roofer. Here are a few questions:
When is the clear plastic stripping removed from the singles? I’m noticing it on the overhang, but there were a few instances it was removed near the gutters not allowing me to put gutter guards underneath due to it sticking.
The plastic on the shingles is meant to prevent the shingles from sealing together during storage. If the roofers made there own starter shingles (you can buy pre made metric 7in tall starters) there could have been some of the plastic left on the shingles when they cut them. For this reason a while ago I stopped making the starter shingles and started buying them. The wind will blow off most if there exposed but there actually suposed to stay on the shingle as it determins the manufacturer, design of shingle, assembly plant, date, etc. This is why you send in two shingles to a roofing manufacturer.
Where the singles meet the siding like on a dormer and/or porch, shouldn’t the roofer be filling that area in with caulk or roof cement to prevent
If they used flashing you shouldn’t need caulk as it will only last 5-10 years anyways. If roofed correctly it won’t leak.
I noticed some areas were sealed, but other areas are not. I kind of get the feeling they left it for me to do or a siding guy to do (which I don’t plan on hiring any time soon)
If your roof was recently replaced you may not have had enough sun to seal down all your shingles.
On a valley that slightly turns, the cut line is flipped at the turn as it goes up the valley. Is that normal? All the roofs I’ve noticed in the area have a continuous line going up the valley. Also there is a slight bump near the valley.
If your valley is not straight and has a turn in it the valley cut line will not be straight, and you probabably have a pitch change as well which could indicate why the roofer may have changed the cut side that is of course if they installed roll vally metal and did the california style valley or closed valley. If you have a pitch change of 2 or more you have to shingle in the lower pitched roof first but if you have an equal pitch on the both sides and a lot more water runs on one side you have to roof the smaller section of roof in first. The bulge may be caused by a build up of shingles, ice and water shield, and vally flashing in the transition area, this is normal.
Finally, how much of an overhang should there be on the sides of the
house? It looks about 2 inches over and the line is’nt cut straight. Kind
Certainteed calls for 3/4in with no drip edge and 1/2in with drip edge. 2in on the rakes is a lot and it will bend over with time and if it’s not cut straight it will be an eye sore until it either gets cut straight or once the roof is done again.
Overall, the roof looks good. No shingles coming up. But I feel the above mentioned was done kind of sloppy. Out of a 100% rating, I would give it a 85%.
Call the contractor and ask if the edges can be cut back to 3/4in and if they could use chaulk lines this time!!!
Thanks for any input.[/quote]