Wasn’t suggesting them now @MPA…just pointing out that would be a fix. I agree…not cost effective at this point with roof already installed. N.C. code requires minimum 5/8 roof sheathing so we don’t have a choice of thinner wood. I’ve roofed thousands with 7/16" 2’ oc…they tend to be a lil wavy after 20 yrs but it works.
Ok so to fix this problem, upgrade the sheeting to at least 5/8 cdx or add the perlins when I reroof. Would using synthetic underlayment help? I had a local roofer tell me that synthetic hides the imperfections better.
Synthetics don’t leave the wrinkles under the shingles to start with. Unfortunately…it won’t hide the decks imperfections better…it may actually show through worse.
I’m not a big fan of felt these days…but nice tight 30# would be best for trying to smooth appearance. Or maybe even heavier weight…
If you want to hide small imperfections you would use 30# felt it is thick (supposed to be anyway) and relatively stiff so it bridges gaps.
Synthetic would be the worst choice if the goal was to hide deck imperfections, it is too thin and lacks any stiffness at all.
Ok maybe I misunderstood the local roofer. He was probably talking about the wrinkles. This is good information to know because my contractor wants to use synthetic felt this time for the repair. So it’s good to know that is not going to correct the issue with the sheathing. Thanks for the replies.
Local building code may not approve 7/16" decking for 24" centers. There is your opening for having the insurance pay for it. Covered under ordinance or law provision in your policy.
Probably need 40 squares of decking. Insurance price should end up around $6500 to $7500 or so for new decking. If the roof is 7 pitch or above, insurance will pay additional for steep charge.
I was told that 7/16 is up to code where I live. Does anyone know where I can verify this for sure? I’m in Cypress, TX. Will the cost be the same if insurance doesn’t pay?
It may be up to code in Texas with no snow load, it doesn’t work in Michigan, 1/2" osb isn’t even thick enough for 24" centers (maybe just barely).
7/16" sheeting is for side walls.
Now another question. I have already paid these roofers half the money for this awful roof installation. And I just found out that my crooked family member contractor double charged me for the roof. So really it has been paid for. Can I tell this company to go on now? If they put a lien on my house, can I call them out for overcharging me? I know I agreed to the price and signed his contract but I didn’t know that my crooked family member was taking me for a ride when he said that he was installing upgraded shingles at his cost. GAF Natural Shadow is definitely not an upgraded shingle. None of the materials on this reroof reflect the price that he is charging me. And I believe that this installation was done by his general carpenter and a bunch of hired day laborers. Also, I have no idea where they got the materials, maybe off of Craigslist or leftovers from their other jobs because the shingle bundles looked beat up, with packaging that was all torn and ripped up on the sides and the shingles were bowed, not flat. Plus they left these shingles open and bent over the ridge and parts of the roof were not tarped overnight. I have a roof leak (had another roofer confirm that it is a pinhole leak from around the chimney) and this company has not done anything to patch it. Their roofing crew took off with the emergency tarps that my insurance company paid for. They tried to install the wrong shingles during their first repair attempt, now they want to do a partial repair without reroofing and submit supplements for sheathing.
My insurance company said that they may deny any supplements from this company because their roof installation was done incorrectly and did not pass a roof inspection. And the insurance company thinks that they should have inspected the sheathing before installing the shingles the first time.
Can I tell this company that we are done and move on to another qualified roofer without having to pay them the rest of the money? Can they put a lien on my house if I do this? What is the worse that can happen because I don’t want these people back on my roof?
At this point you should have an attorney involved if you already don’t. You need someone familiar with the laws in your state. That is the best advice I can give you.
Unfortunately you have a major mess on your hands and are well past the point where advice on here is going to help other to farther your education on general roofing practices, an education I am sure you never wanted.
Thanks MPA. I have learned alot from all of you. I feel that I could get up on my roof and do it myself now (but not really.) I guess you are right. I will just tell them I don’t want them back and if they get the legal ball rolling, I’ll hire a lawyer.
Now on to select my new shingles. I like the Certainteed Landmark Pro Weathered Wood. Atlas shingles look nice too but I’m not sure if they sell Atlas in my area.
Out of the all shingles avalible in my area landmark pro is my favorite reasonably priced shingle, and weatherwood my favorite color. Goes great with a big variety of colors.
Good luck @Fiona…as a contractor I wouldn’t blame you at all. As you said…you can always hire a lawyer to defend you if they choose to come after you. You have the pictures and documentation to back you up. Get a Certainteed shingle installed by a quality contractor…preferably “Shinglemaster” certified and I’m sure you won’t have a repeat of your situation. I agree with @MPA…Can’t go wrong with Landmarks…
Thanks everyone. I will post a picture of my new roof when I get it replaced. Another thing that struck me odd about the current contractor is that they wanted to do this repair in January. Could they have possibly lifted shingles to check the nail pattern with it being so cold? I told them that I want them to pay for another roof inspection after the repair. I have not heard from them yet on this. Something tells me that they really don’t plan on addressing the overdriven nails.
Just wanted to update that I had a full home inspection done this weekend. I wanted to be on the safe side after the tornado. This home inspector clearly pointed out that the flashing around the chimney was done incorrectly and my shingles were not laying down because of the improper installation of the felt. He also said that the sheathing was stapled instead of nailed (has been this way since the original roof installation in 2002.) Should the sheathing be nailed now or are staples still acceptable?
Screws. Staples no longer meet code anywhere that I’m aware of for roof shearing.
I don’t know of anybody that uses screws to attach roof sheeting, everybody I know uses 8d pneumatic driven steel nails.
I’m not a fan of staples but they do hold pretty good and guys tend to use way too many of them.
Yep, why would you use screws when you have 8d ring shank?
They never come back up.
I also have never heard of anyone screwing down roof sheathing on a residential roof.
In my area only nails 8d or greater are allowed anymore. Personality I have never nailed roof sheathing, one builder I worked for 15 years ago used to staple wall sheathing, but still always nailed the roof. Staples hold up ok on in my experience until you tear off the shingles. Every time we run into a stapled deck we always end up shooting it down with nails before installing the new roof.