New roof did not pass inspection


This looks like a good time for me to enter this conversation because Fiona’s roof looks very similar to mine but hers is way worse. My condolences to you Fiona.

You mentioned sheathing should be checked to make sure it’s nailed down flat to the eaves. The sheathing on my reroof is not nailed down flush to the board in numerous areas and your reasoning makes perfect sense. Thank you. Not only is my roof lumpy but it doesn’t have a consistently smooth slope. Some areax have a different slope them others and you can see it through the shingles. This leads me to my question concerning other possible reasons for my lumpy roof. I should mention that hardly any of the sheeting was replaced on my roof or the boards that are members. From the underside you can see mold and numerous wet marks and possible dry rot. When they put the sheeting on instead of replacing any of the dry rotted or damaged or warped boards it looks like they just shaved the dry rot off the top of the board or Dug the chunk of dry rot out… since the end result makes these boards different widths in places wouldn’t that also be a cause for the board not being nailed consistently flush? It appears that there’s been an awful lot of two-by-fours that were shaved to save their expense. It’s very obvious the boards were shaved and dug into because the painted wood shows the exposed would that was shaved clearly when you look from underneath. No attempt was made 2 fill the gaps with any type of wood filler.

My last question on this topic is this. The limited amount of sheathing repaired was replaced with plywood in some areas and then OSB in others. Wouldn’t the replacement have to match the original wood in thickness? If they’re not the same thickness could this be cause for a lumpy roof or inconsistent slope? There are so many places that the roof just seems to cave in and have waves and ripples much like Fiona’s.

Maybe I should have started a new topic but I thought this was in the same lines of your discussion so I apologize if I’m out of line on this I’m exhausted and this just seemed easier and more appropriate to me at this moment
Thank you Fiona, for your post.


I live in.western N.C. There is no permitting for reroofs. Some cities have reroofing permits…but no inspection. Buyer beware is the rule. The rolls in your new roof are “obviously” the exact perimeters of the individual sheets of plywood. My company would have recommended laminating 1/2" OSB, SCREWED not nailed to the rafters. Often times especially on a reroof…nailing is pointless. 99% would use a nail gun and not know if they actually hit the rafters. Screws don’t lie. Screws don’t pull back out due to thermal movement either…and if you use exterior deck screws the moisture won’t rust them over the years either. The raised areas are the plywood butt joints…the buckling was caused over time by the carpenters jamming the sheets to tightly together. Over time…humidity and moisture have swelled the edges causing them to “stand up” so to speak. Redeck…deck over…or live with it. Nothing else will fix it. Hope that helps.


Btw…any roof being replaced for a second time…in other words has been torn off once before…should always have the decking fastening inspected. The process of removing the old roof loosens decking. Its almost a guarantee that decking will need refastened after the second tear off. Also just to mention…the butt joint issue with your decking is common. Your contractor should have seen this issue coming before he even removed the old roof. Hard to believe that those buckles couldn’t be seen either through the old shingles or simple inspection before replacing the shingles.


So I should not just let them cut felt and replace shingles and call it a day? I will still have the buckling issue? What I think I should do is have another roofing company do a tear off and fix whatever is going on with the sheathing. I can tell you for fact if I would have ever seen this with the old original roof, I would remember. Sure the old roof had a hump or two near the valleys but I never noticed the roof before which means to me that it must have looked ok before or I would have noticed it. My neighbors tell me they never noticed anything either. So it has to be something that was done with this new roof installation.

Patty, I don’t know enough to answer your concern about the roofers using plywood and osb. I guess in my opinion, I would expect that they use the same type of sheathing to keep it consistent.


IMO you need a full replacement, there is just too much to fix.


I agree with axiom. Replace the roof or have headaches from now on. Some contractors prefer cdx plywood to osb. Either is fine. For roof decking osb installed correctly with the roof side up will hold up just as well as cdx. And if the joint lines weren’t obvious before roof replacement then that just strengthens the argument that roof “tear off” loosened the decking. Sometimes tear off shovels grab decking nails that are backed out a little or underdriven. If the roofer doesn’t address this before reinstalling…poof…joint lines appear. Its definitely NOT the felt.


Patty…it is rare that the nominal thickness of OSB and CDX “plywood” are the same. CDX is built by laminating multiple layers…OSB is strand board. Usually CDX is slightly thinner…32nd of an inch. I actually prefer OSB because plywood is prone to delaminate. If OSB is kept dry it retains its dimensions. If you have a lot of dips and waves your rafters are probably 2ft on center and if decking is only 1/2" this is common…even with clips. N.C. code no longer allows less than 5/8 decking roofs due to that very reason. Good luck.


It definitely IS the felt.
It definitely IS the sheeting and/or the sheeting nails.


I’m sure the felt is wrinkled…but that last pic is 90% well defined butt joints. Wasn’t trying to inspect the roof from a picture…just pointing out the most obvious and offensive problem I see.


The contractor sent me his roof repair proposal today. He wants to replace the shingles and felt on the entire left and right side of the roof along with 3 slopes on the front. The rest is going to be inspected for issues. He isn’t doing anything about the back of the house that I posted a picture earlier. I have many concerns. #1 they are going to use synthetic felt for the replaced areas. The other parts are staying at #30. Can you mix and match felts? #2 they want to do the repair next week. The temperatures next week are between 68-36 degrees range. With thunderstorms and rain after their proposed date. Doesn’t sound like a good time to be laying shingles. He told me the main crew will be doing the work this time. He has a note on the proposal about submitting a supplement to my insurance company for sheathing. I don’t understand what that is about. Why replace sheathing when it only needs to be nailed down correctly. Unless there was damage caused by the tornado and they are going to address it now? Can anyone tell me if this is the right approach and should I be concerned?


There is nothing wrong with using a mix of underlay, he probably wants to switch to synthetic to minimize wrinkles, as it lays much flatter.
High of 68f is just about perfect roofing weather.
Can’t comment on the sheathing, very hard to tell if it needs to be replaced or just nailed down until it’s exposed.


The high is 68 for the day that they want to install. The days after is what I’m concerned about. Weather is in the 50s to 30s.


40 and above your good…:+1:


@Fiona…let us know what is discovered on your roof. I hope its going well for you.


What does that mean?’ “Rafters are two feet in Center”. I appreciate the response but you need to spell it out for me. Very sorry


It’s the spacing of the rafters/trusses.

Normally they are 16" or 24".


Yes I just went and checked out my rafters. They are 24 inches apart


I spoke with my insurance claims rep yesterday regarding this roof repair. He said that any supplements for sheathing on this repair may be denied because this roof replacement was already done and sheathing damage from the tornado should have been reported during the tear-off. He said if a supplement for damaged sheathing is reported now, that they would have to determine if the damage was caused by the roof installers during the roof installation or the tornado. What damage to sheathing could the roof installers have done during the reroof? I don’t have a good feeling about this repair or having a 10 year contract with this company anymore. They will not even come out and tarp my roof leak. And their crew took off with the tarps that were on my roof from the tornado, that my insurance company paid dearly for. Has anyone ever negotiated a fair settlement for an improper installation? I would feel much better getting a better roofing company to do a complete reroof instead of babysitting this repaired roof for the next 10 years. And I suspect once this company gets the rest of the money, they will probably put me on the caller block list.


The tear off “can” cause loose decking if installers don’t watch for decking nails their shovels may grab…but that doesn’t “damage” it. Simply renail decking. If its damaged sheeting the roofer should have known…but so should the insurance adjuster. Sue your insurance company if they don’t pay. You definitely should get an attorney involved. If not I agree with you…your roof isn’t going to get 100% taken care of.


You can deck over the existing plywood and screw it down Fiona. Saves the cost of removal and gives more structure to the roof deck. That would give you a nice smooth deck to replace shingles over. That’s what I “think” I would recommend as an alternative contractor.