All we use is 30#, instated with care and don’t shingle wet, never end up with a finished product anything like that
So do you think they shorten the exposure of the shingles? The rows look bunched and the roofing contractor said that the insurance adjuster was off 4 shingle bundles.
There would be no benefit to the roofer to shorten the exposure. Insurance measurements being off are not the least bit uncommon, especially for a “cut up” roof such as yours. A few of the courses may be slightly shorter do to crocked rows but nowhere near enough to make the job 4 bundles short.
…and to think the Europeans got it all wrong when they chose to ignore bitumen shingles.
That American contribution to the economy guaranteeing minimal roof life integrity through economic ingenuity.
The US has contributed many advances in building technology alas roofing is not one of them.
A roof is supposed to give you problem free performance for around 30 years and even then only require maintenance at penetrations and guttering if any.
Personally I have yet to see a bitumen shingle roof anywhere in the world without any problems arising within 3 years.
Now I’m not saying there’s a good deal of ignorance being displayed on these pages because the proof is there to see, but there are some decisions people will never be equipped to handle and should never be allowed to make.
If you don’t have a signature from a roofing manufacturer with a personal bonafide financial guarantee underwritten by an insurance company don’t buy the product.
The last thing you want to experience is that feeling of helplessness sitting in your home watching the water drip, drip, drip on the floor when it’s raining.
Of the three major elements that constitute a home roof, walls, floor…the roof is the most important, treat it that way.
It concerns me that the roofer did not do any inspection of the sheathing when they removed the shingles. And he doesn’t think he needs to do anything with the front side. In person, the front looks like there may be something wrong with the sheathing underneath. Not only are there bulges but in a couple of places there are these weird looking dents and you can see what looks like outlines of the sheathing. Now I must make the decision if I want to pay someone else to reroof so that I can see if there is damage to the sheathing.
You could inspect the sheeting from underneath for free and not damage a thing…
By the way, 2 layers of underlayment is better than one. Even if the first layer is old.
The side he wants to replace, he says has loose osb sheathing. They found this out by pulling up a few shingles. Can you tell if the osb sheathing is warped or loose on the roof from the attic?
Yes, you will be able to tell if there is space between the rafters and the sheathing and also be able to see if horizontal seams are warped and not aligned from inside the attic.
Here is another pic of the front of the house. It looks to me like the outlines of the sheathing??? maybe. What could cause these lines to be so transparent under the shingles?
These days, the way sheeting is specd to be installed it to have an 1/8" gap between both vertical and horizontal sheets. They say if its too tight to the sheet next to it they can swell (because of moisture in the air) and cause the seams to telegraph through the roof material (in a similar way to what your pic shows). Go in your attic and see how tight the sheeting is.
Should the roofer inspect the gaps after the tear off to tell you if the gaps are too tight before redoing the shingles? My roofer said they also have to redo one whole side of the house because of loose boards. How can the nalis in the osb boards become loose? They only replaced a few sheets of osb on that side.
After storm damage from high winds all sorts of things are possible. If the contractor is now saying there is loose sheathing, I would talk with your insurance company. Sounds like the contractor didn’t do his do his due diligence and make sure there was not more damage before just slapping on shingles. Might have been inexperienced sup crew whose only job was to go take shingles off and put new ones on.
So we just had a downpour of rain here and water is dripping off the fascia boards with drops forming underneath. Shouldn’t the drip edge keep the water away from the fascia boards?
It is supposed to “help” keep water off the fascia board,
Not eliminate it.
Your fascia is especiallly going to get water on it
Because your builder built the fascia 90 degrees to the ground instead of building it 90 degrees in relation to the roof.
Most all modern builders who build the fascia 90 degrees from the ground also cover that fascia with vinyl or Aluminum.
Now i did notice that your fascia looked like it wasnt made out of wood. I could be wrong.
It looks like hardi board to me.(concrete board)
If i am correct, that means your builder already addressed the issue and you have a non-rottable fascia.
That is good to hear. Thanks roof_lover.
Fascia getting wet isn’t the problem, getting soaked and never getting a chance to dry out is the problem.
Cement board may not rot like wood does but is does lose its finish and start to spall and flake apart which is essentially the same thing.
I havent seen cement board deteriorate before.
I think it is the very best when re-siding a chimney.
It last without any paint protection at all.
Omg that deck is gross!
I know it smells too!
I have another question. Should the shingles go over or under the vent pipe boot on the front side that you can see from the ground? Looks like half of my vent pipe boots have the shingle over and half have the shingle under. I’m assuming one way has to be wrong.