New ridge vent not working

My house is 15 years old. I have soffit vents and had aluminum ridge vents. For the last 15 years the ventilation seemed fine. We had hail damage and just got new shingles and ridge vents installed. Now I have owens corning ventsure ridgid roll ridge vents. My attic has been getting so much moisture building up I now have a bunch of stains on my ceilings. Everything is soaked in the attic. It is winter and has been snowing (I’m in Pennsylvania) so the ridge vent has been blocked some. I have R49 insulation and baffles in the overhangs to keep the insulation from blocking the soffit vents. I can see the soffit vents aren’t blocked. The house must be insulated good, I never have any ice dams. Would some sort of attic fan help? I need to do something. The attic will not stay dry. Everything I read says I have the best setup for ventilation. But it’s not working.

The underlayment may not have been cut out of the ventilation slot.

The aluminum style ridgevents function pretty well, the gun nailable roll vents have less free area per ft so they don’t vent as well.

You may be able to see from the attic if the underlayment is cut away.

It is cut away. I can see the mesh on the bottom of the ridge vent.

Not saying you are wrong but how do you know it’s the mesh on the ridgevent as opposed to the underlayment, they can look the same.

Like I said the gun nailable ridgevents are only 5/8" tall as opposed to 1" tall for the 4’ sections that require hand nailing with 2 1/2" nails or better, this is a 37.5% difference.

If everything was functional before and the ridge is cut open I would suggest removing the roll vent and replacing it with a product like shinglevent II or Snow Country, these are 4’ sections with more net free area.

They do not look the same. It has titanium underlayment. I have a small piece of the ridge vent left over and I looked at the bottom of it. It just seems to not flow much air. I was considering a different ridge vent.

We always use shing vent ll or equivalent. Roll vents are not very effective new and break down over time and become even less effective.

You had what you had, and it worked.
What possessed you to change it in the refit?
This is where you begin the epic chasing your tail if you don’t go back to what you had

Any vent that leaves exposed nails would be a downgrade. As has been mentioned…double check the ridge to make sure its been cut open. If it has, a 4 ft style shingle over vent may be the cure.

I concur that the old style metal ridge vent
Is more affective than any of the plastic ones.

I admit i install the plastic ones.
They can look nicer if you use the right ones.
But i wouldnt hesitate to use the metal ones if asked…
I’d use the alum, ring shank rubber gasket fastener.

I’ve replaced the plywood at the ridge on over 80% of the tear offs we have ever done that had aluminum/mobile home ridge vents. I would personally never recommend it to a customer and simply refuse to put it on new homes. Just my personal experience and opinion…

I have the same ridge vent - for 7 years because my roofer said I needed a ridge vent for superior venting. A few months ago I noticed that my entire attic is full of heavy mold. The roofers also left the bathroom fans venting in the attic. Many of the soffits were also plugged per roofers. But this ridge vent was ALSO suspect to me because the only thing that changed (if you don’t figure in the bathroom vents) 7 years ago was the addition of the ridge vent.

Therefore, I ran a quick test to verify. I recently installed enough soffits to satisfies todays 150 rule and half soffit/half ridge vent NFVA even though back in 2011 I believe it was the 300 rule. I also made sure all soffits were clear of any insulation. The high was a cool 72 and my home only gets 4-5 hours of direct sunlight due to massive oaks around my home and yet the attic maxed out near 50 degrees warmer than the outside air. That there tells me it’s moving little if no air through those ridge vents. I can’t imagine what I would see if I had all day direct sunlight and it was 90.

The mold was because the bathrooms were venting into the attic.
Ridge vent wouldnt increase mold unless it was leaking( installed wrong)

I admit your 50 degrees higher than 72 degrees on a shady lot is high.
I almost dont believe it.
I would check to make sure that the roofers didnt “forget” to cut the underlayment out.
When you look through the cut-out at the ridge that you are looking at the bottom of the ridge vent.

Yes the mold is definitely from the bathroom exhaust. But it’s possible that the bath vents ALWAYS vented into the attic and I had no mold for 23 years UNTIL the ridge vent was put on. So all indications point to this ridge vent not venting properly.

There is a good 3 inch gap at the ridge and the underlayment is not there. I just see the white fiber filter from the ridge vent.

I did another test today - a little hotter around 85 and the attic got to 124. Tomorrow I’m going to completely block the ridge vent and see if I get the same temperatures. If I get the same temps what does that say? I think it says the ridge vent isn’t working.

The mold is most likely a direct result of the bathroom vent fan. Are you sure it was venting outside before the new roof?.

Do you have any pictures? Ridge vent is not there to control temperature, its purpose is to allow air to escape. What type of Ridge vent was installed? The mesh filter roll type or the rigid plastic type? In my opinion the roll type is just about worthless and over time breaks down and becomes more useless.

where is the major presence of the mould?

No I’m not sure. It could have been there all alone and was just better vented with the mushroom vents and attic fan. The ridge vent is Owens Corning Rigid roll - yes worthless. I get the same temps whether I plug the vent or leave it open.

Literally everywhere.