New metal install issue

I had a new metal roof installed and there is a noticeable curve from the eave to the ridge. The old roof was a torch down with built in gutters that they covered with 4x8 plywood. However is seems like the slope profile of the roof was not caught correctly, creating a curve in the roof.

It is probably following the curve of your bent or sagging rafters. And possibly not. Not a great photo but while the install looks somewhat adequate, I wouldn’t feature it on my home page. More photos would help.

Yeah that’s kind of what the roofers said but it’s hard to say whether that’s the case. The house has open ceilings on the inside so there’s no attic to check for bowing/sagging in the rafters. I guess when I envisioned the new roof I was hoping to have a clean straight roof line and that doesn’t seem to be the case. Do roofers not check to see how straight the roof line is before installing a new roof? I would think they would pull a string line to ensure there’s no underlying problems.

There are 2 things going on here, they are not top notch metal installers as there is no hook eave. Also, they seem to have left the internal gutters a little proud. The pic seems to show that but it’s hard to tell from a couple photos. Also, I bet your rafters are sagging at the center of their long run making the proud gutter situation that much more noticeable. Just my 2 cents.

Yeah I questioned the hook eave too after seeing it but I looked up the installation guidelines for the roof manufacturer and it called for either the standard eave installation or the hook eave so I guess unless you’re knowledgeable enough to request what you want they’ll probably just resort to what’s easiest. I’ve also looked at a lot of other metal roofs in the area and it seems pretty standard that the majority don’t have a hook eave they just install a screw at the ends to keep them from coming up. As far as leaving the eave ends a little proud is there much that can be done at this point without completely removing the roof?

And yeah sorry the pictures don’t really look the same vs when you see it in person.

No, unfortunately there is no easy fix. Have you paid in full yet? If not you still have some leverage with the roofing company and can try to get some money back. The only other option I can think of would be to get in the attic and see if the trusses are sagging over the long span. If they are, lifting the rafters and properly supporting them could be a solution. I would recommend using a skilled contractor and/or an engineer (or both) to figure out if this is possible. Even if they didn’t get the rafters perfectly straight by lifting the center, even a little bit would help.

I haven’t paid for the roof yet, and unfortunately the area that looks to be sagging is just 2x8 rafters going to an exposed beam. So it’s just a vaulted ceiling with no attic space. When I pulled a sting line from the ridge to the eave it looked to be about an inch maybe a little more of a gap. When I brought up the curved look they said it’s probably the rafters sagging and that they could do whatever I want but now because the issue wasn’t brought up until after the roof was laid it’s going to cost me that much more in labor to undo and then redo the work.

If I understand correctly they roofed over the existing touchdown and you expected a smooth plane? Sorry if I’m not interpreting this correctly but if it wasn’t torn off down to the sheathing it will not be a perfect job, period. As far as trying to jack up a metal roof? Good luck. Hardly advisable on new comp much less metal. Very little flex and you will pull screws loose. Why wasn’t old roofing removed?

Sorry, torchdown. Not football season yet

Sorry I may have not been clear on the previous entry. They did tear up the old torch down roof to the sheeting. Once they removed the old roof they laid new 4x8 sheeting over where the existing built in gutter use to be. So basically 4ft up from around each eave side of the house there is new sheeting that I thought was suppose line up with the existing slope to create a new even roof line. However like I kind of mentioned before, to me it seems like the eave end is a little high still which causes the curve; and or contributes to the curve if the rafters do have in fact have sag but the problem seems to be on the bottom eave portion.

That changes everything. They could and should have pulled a string line and shimmed as needed under new sheathing. Simple detail.

That’s exactly what I was thinking. I wanted to upgrade and improve the overall look of the house and in my mind I was expecting a clean straight roof line especially since a new roof is one of the most expensive items on a house and I don’t exactly plan on doing it again. I’m just not sure what approach to take to get the issue corrected. So if you or anyone has some advice I would really appreciate it.

Only way to correct it is to take the panels off and install shims where needed in the belly. Sorry for your hassle I’m sure it’s frustrating.

Yeah it’s pretty frustrating. Are talking about shimming under the plywood sheeting or just under the metal itself? Seems that if you shimmed the metal walking on it would be an issue?! Thanks for taking time to reply I appreciate it.

It should be under the sheathing but you might be able to pull it off under panels if it is done properly

If the roofer had seamed the bottom of standing seam panel to the eve metal
It wouldnt have bowed up like that.
It is a lot more work but it would be flat and tight and 10 times more wind proof.
I think the bottom curve was going to be there no matter what.
It is just the bulging at the bottom of the panel that is the cosmetic eye sore which would have not happened if they had seamed the panel to the eve drip metal.

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If they sheeted over the built in gutter there will be a flat spot there that needs to plane with the roof, I suspect it is going to take more than just shimming to plane it out.

That’s exactly what I thought and what I told them when they laid the sheeting over the old gutter system. So I’m going to have them come back out and remove a couple panels and we will check the roof plain and go from there. It’s probably going to take some work to redo the soffit/eave to make it plain out even with the existing roof line but it’s better than just calling it good as is.

So I have the roofing supervisor coming out next week to address the curve and eave issue. As far as the hook eave detail goes is this something I should have them address as well? I can’t find anything online about whether the hook eave is a required detail or if putting a screw at the end of the panel is acceptable. Everything I’ve read online it just talks about the hook eave on standing seam roofs. Thanks!

I think it’s too late for hook eave (probably) because there panels are already cut to length. Depending on how far the panels tuck under the hip & ridge, you might have enough length to notch and bend the bottom of the panel. A screw in the center of the panel is perfectly acceptable.