Need new Roofing (EPDM?) - few questions

After reading comments here I have decided to get EPDM roofing with perhaps 1 inch insulation to lower heating and cooling of the house, there is absolutely no foot traffic up there with exception for once / twice a year to remove leaves (one tree is very close to the house, I will have it removed since it looks like EPDM is fragile to things falling on it), the other one is a big tree that is far off but wind brings the leaves…).

But I do have few questions;

First let me start with the most important one;

-I have had ponding problems on this roof, we bought the house recently and weren’t aware of it. With cracking noises in winter etc that sometimes would wake us up in the middle of the night, we had no idea what it was and after an architect investigated the roof it came down to the ponding and ice formation in winter, I personally didn’t know ice makes cracking nosies even when it forms and not only when it melts… The ponding needs to be taken care of obviously not only for thee noise but also to enahnce the lifetime. I was told that we need “tapered insulation beneath the new roofing with varying thickness from approx 1.5 inch at the perimeter to approx 6 inch at the center”. Can this be done if I go with EPDM?

-do I absolutely have to tear the previous roof? I believe it’s only one layer.

  • What type of warranty should I expect

  • how should the seams be glued, double glued or whatever the jargon is, since it looks like majority of the problems happen in the seams area?

  • How can I pick a good roofer since everyone here keeps talking about being more important to go with a good roofer rather than X type of roofing

  • This is an approx 2300 sqf roof can I guestimate a fair price /sqft?

thank you for taking your time to replying as well as educating posts!

Yes, you can go over the exhisting roof. That’ll add to your R value & fire rating. Yes, you can install a cricket or tapered insulation, over the old roof @ that low spot. You could also install a drain there instead. I’d go with .060 epdm, a fully adhered glue down. Don’t let any estimator or salesman talk you into batten in the seam or mechanically attached! Its only 23 squares, let them glue it down! I don’t recommend gluing the seams though, seam tape is better & you get a longer warranty with seam tape. Have you considered a PVC like Ib? They have some real nice colors, the seams are heat welded so they’ll never open up or leak & they have great warranties! Look for a roofing contractor that does residential & commercial work that is a Carlisle, Firestone, or Ib licensed applicator, that way you’ll be confident that they know what they’re doing.

thank you for the reply

what’s “PVC like lb”? I will google the pvc but read more about it but what’s lb?

lastly how can i find a roofing contractor that is licensed by these major companies? I tried on Firestone’s website with no luck

[quote=“Zand”]thank you for the reply

what’s “PVC like lb”? I will google the pvc but read more about it but what’s lb?

lastly how can i find a roofing contractor that is licensed by these major companies? I tried on Firestone’s website with no luck[/quote]

IB is a manufacturer of PVC roofing membrane and related items.

Zander, IB stands for Industry’s Best & they’re out of the N’West corner. Like the Oregon/Washington area. Go ahead & Google them. In a lot of states, epdm is dead! All the architechs & engineers are going green with pvc & tpo! It’ll outlast a epdm roof any day! To find a Carlisle or Firestone contractor look in the good old yellow pages! Look for an American Indian head for Carlisle & a shield with a fancy f in it for Firestone. You can also call a roofing supply warehouse like ABC, Bradco, Beacon, & ask them who they recommend.

[quote=“Zand”]After reading comments here I have decided to get EPDM roofing with perhaps 1 inch insulation to lower heating and cooling of the house, there is absolutely no foot traffic up there with exception for once / twice a year to remove leaves (one tree is very close to the house, I will have it removed since it looks like EPDM is fragile to things falling on it), the other one is a big tree that is far off but wind brings the leaves…).

But I do have few questions;

First let me start with the most important one;

-I have had ponding problems on this roof, we bought the house recently and weren’t aware of it. With cracking noises in winter etc that sometimes would wake us up in the middle of the night, we had no idea what it was and after an architect investigated the roof it came down to the ponding and ice formation in winter, I personally didn’t know ice makes cracking nosies even when it forms and not only when it melts… The ponding needs to be taken care of obviously not only for thee noise but also to enahnce the lifetime. I was told that we need “tapered insulation beneath the new roofing with varying thickness from approx 1.5 inch at the perimeter to approx 6 inch at the center”. Can this be done if I go with EPDM?

-do I absolutely have to tear the previous roof? I believe it’s only one layer.

  • What type of warranty should I expect

  • how should the seams be glued, double glued or whatever the jargon is, since it looks like majority of the problems happen in the seams area?

  • How can I pick a good roofer since everyone here keeps talking about being more important to go with a good roofer rather than X type of roofing

  • This is an approx 2300 sqf roof can I guestimate a fair price /sqft?

thank you for taking your time to replying as well as educating posts![/quote]

Based on some resources I’ve read, “very few homeowners will take on installing EPDM roofing as it is primarily used in the commercial industry - professional installation is highly recommended.”

So, you might want to consult a local roofing service provider first before starting to work on it.

I don’t believe the h.o. said it was going to be a d.i.y. project.

TPO and PVC expansion/contraction rate is much lower (virtually none) than most other low slope products including EPDM.

You can also do fully adhered using Fleeceback. This is a fibrous backing that holds to a fast setting adhesive such as FAST.

You will definitely want a seasoned installer for any heat welded system.

of course I won’t be doing it myself…

I have contacted the IB for recommended authorized contractors and based on their lists and Angie’s list reviews, I hope to find the right people for it.

Thank you for your help folks, you have been of great help with your expertise

Zander, haven’t heard from you. How’d u make out? Let us know?

It may be a good option to you. However, you should konw the five tips of installing the EPDM. 1.Watch Weather,Fill Gaps, Allow Overlap,Clean Roof, Check Roof.

I got an estimate from a guy, he suggests to pitch it himself rather than tapered insulation as it would make it much cheaper. Pitching it with wood and then putting the new roof on top. the roof on top would be either bitumen! with 10 years warrnty or PTO with 20 years warranty

3000sqft for 20K (bitumen) or PTO for about 25K!!!

yes i am scared and confused.

any input would be greatly appreciated

Zander, them guys are trying to screw you! That’s a $1,000 a square for a go over! A rip & replace won’t even cost that! Where do you live? Get back to me.

[quote=“Zand”]I got an estimate from a guy, he suggests to pitch it himself rather than tapered insulation as it would make it much cheaper. Pitching it with wood and then putting the new roof on top. the roof on top would be either bitumen! with 10 years warrnty or PTO with 20 years warranty

3000sqft for 20K (bitumen) or PTO for about 25K!!!

yes i am scared and confused.

any input would be greatly appreciated[/quote]

I hope this includes the framing and new decking to “pitch” it himself.!

Don’t mess with framing & decking. Less money & less weight with EPS Dow board or ISO board tapered insulation.

^yes it would including everything pitching . new boards etc

All estimates that i get no matter what “comes with the zip code…”

We do need new framing or tapered insulation, the problem is water ponding and i am not talking about small ponding, when it rains THE ENTIRE ROOF GETS COVERED until the sun dries it out! zero pitch right now and suing the previous owner seems not worth it as it would cost 10K but i might do it. can’t decide right now.

anyways, the total sqft of the roof is 2 sections one is 3532, the other is 3534, so around 2300-2500sqft

the way things are going i guess i have to postpone this to spring and hope it doesnt leak for another few months

thanks guys

That’s what it is, you live in a wealthy town. Most towns in this country you can have a garage or addition built for $25/$30 grand! Have you considered that it might be cheaper to have a plumber install a new drain in the low area? Then get your go over installed?

there are 3 or 4 areas with deeper ponding.
But maybe I can bring that up with the architect company who came up with the suggestion of tapered insulation. What do you think of just getting this guy or somebody else to build new pitch on top of the current roof (for added insulation?) ??? and then go with TPO on top of it?

I am going to tell the guy that either does it for 20% cut of whatever his final estimate is, or i will move on. Thank you for your help Bob. I have done a ton of projects with this house and previous ones including plumbing, electrical, windows, new kitchen / baths but for sure roofing is the most confusing and hardest to me. you guys are great!!!

You can do that. I just don’t know how much more weight your system can handle? Crickets made out of insulation & tapered insulation would be less laborious & lighter. Good luck, keep us posted & let us know how you make out.

Thank you bob!!!

It looks like I am going with TPO, after so many months of looking.

he will put the new boards / pitch it w 25 years for material and 10 year labor for 18K

(gave me also 10 year labor and material warranty for bitumen for 15K).

Too much money but that’s not his fault

two questions;
-would it make sense to go with TPO since we are after all changing the boards and may want to go lighter for the weight…
-there is no FOOT traffic on the roof other than once / twice a year, me going on it to make sure all is ok and clear leaves etc
I assume walking on TPO about twice a year wouldn’t be an issue, but we do live close to a baseball field and end up with balls in our house about 4-5 times a year. could this crack it you think? (in which case go with > bitumen)?

thank you guys!