Metal shingles vs. architecturals in coastal SC

Hi guys–

Am looking to replace the (hip) roof on my 1957 single story brick ranch. Not sure how many squares, but probably about 25-30. Roof deck is tongue in groove pine on about a 5.5 pitch. Currently a turbine vent with one small stretch of ridge vent.

Lots of research on the internet and drove the neighborhood to see what other HOs are doing (mostly 3 tabs being replaced by archs). One neighbor had a metal roof that had a shingle appearance. Really liked the look, and he told me it was the Classic Metal Oxford Shake. Contacted the co. who put it on for him (they are an out-of state operation) as well as the mfr, who gave me another out-of-town (but in state) group. Both had the same process- self stick underlayment over the old 3 tabs (roof is not currently leaking) then cover over with the metal roofing, which is an interlocking panel system that just looks like shingles. Both kicked back at the idea of a complete tear-off and installation, and told me that the old shingles were “Insulation”, etc. Frankly, it all sounded like bs explanations pulled from nether regions to me, but I’m very much not an expert, so maybe I’m maligning them unjustly.

I have always been under the impression that the way to do a roof “right” was a complete tear off to expose any hidden problems, and it seems counterintuitive to me to put a new, long-lasting product over something that will continue to deteriorate through the years. I am also a little concerned about the underlayment over the old shingles creating a long term moisture problem in this high humidity environment. I have since read that aluminum roofing is a problem in salt-water exposed areas. My house has no direct salt spray, but is about a mile from brackish river/salt marsh. The old (40+ years) aluminum windows show mild to moderate corrosion. Nothing awful, but they are under an 18" overhang.

I really like the idea of a metal roof for superior heat reflectance and wind resistance, along with not having to re-shingle in 20 years, and am not averse to spending the additional $$ as I believe it will pay off in the long run if I can get a quality product/job. But standing seam (which is what the local guys do) is not the right look for this house. I’ve already rejected the out of state co. due to a BBB check, and can’t get a price out of the in-state out of town guys. I have also looked into a product called Reinke shakes, a corrugated aluminum shingle manufactured in Nebraska. But it has to be hand nailed, and interlayered with 3 layers of felt, like old wood shakes. The one local contractor I talked to about installing them spent literally 3 hours coming up with reasons to hate them. He normally does historic slate roofs and I tried him because of his familiarity with traditional techniques.

So, 1) Am I crazy to be pursuing the metal option and should I just give up and get 30-40 year architecturals?

  1. Am I right to be concerned about metal and 100% ice and water shield over the old shingles?

  2. What about the aluminum/salt water issue?

  3. Does anybody have any experience with Reinke shakes or do you have any alternative products to suggest that would give metal protection and reflectivity but still look like individual shingles. Or I should say, be an appropriate look for my house.

Thanks for your patience with the long post. I’ve tried to give details, but apologies in advance if I’ve violated etiquette with my wordiness!

Hi Blueprairie,

we are currently working on a “big” roof that will be interlocking copper shingles WITHOUT interlayering with 3 roof felts… (I really needed to smile when you said:… 3 roof felts…) well you will need one layer of roof felt for the moister that builts up underneath. How ever… we made all the copper shingles in our shop (7,000 pieces in diamond shape from a 15 inch copper coil) I allways offer a life-time-waranty for my roofs (for material AND craftsmannship) if you need more information, please send me an email…

I attached a picture BUT will try to make tomorrow better ones.

We installed a blue-tarp-roof above the roof… since here is it 180 degrees F (at least feel like that) Thats why it is everythin blue on the picture.

to blueprairie:

You know, sometimes it is ok to go over 1 layer of asphalt shingles if you can inspect the roof deck from the attic. Metal is light weight and won’t make any difference in terms of structural load… for us it is what the customer wants, but we explain them the difference about re-roof and tear of.

Now, going with ice and water over shingles is crazy - it will never stick to the shingles due to stones… it should only be applied to wood and in my opinion only on eaves, valleys and side/end walls. The rest of the roof should be covered with underlayment - we use deck-armor as it is breathable, and won’t trap condensation.

As for aluminum in coastal area - that is pretty much the only ‘main-stream’ metal roofing material u can use near the ocean, as steel will rust, and exotic metals like copper/zinc are too expensive to be mainstream in my opinion.

Oxford is a decent metal roof, and when installed correctly, you should have no problems…
but as always, it is all in the installation. How far out of town company is located? can you check up on them? I mean they already sound sketchy, but you always need to do your due diligence… there are few other aluminum manufacturers… Check

I have my own opinions on almost every metal roofing mfg, but cannot discuss it on open forum like this one…

as far as shingles go, it is up to you… if you cannot find a decent installer near you, than find a good roofer to do a good shingle job. If you were closer, i could give you a price… but So. Carolina… man… that is a far ride from Mass. :mrgreen:

1)yes crazy(dont have a local guy to do it).
3)aluminum + saltwater = corrosion
4)if reinke was a popular product then alot of people
would have experience with it.

get yourself a local guy/girl who has done other good looking roofs in your town, and go with what they have.
alot of people get them selves into trouble using roofers and products that are not from their area.
who are you going to call if something goes wrong
in the future.
you do want a warranty dont you.


to gweedo…

man, give me that stuff that you smoke… :mrgreen:

alum + salt water = corrosion??? airplanes are made of aluminum man… not steel… you know why? (besides the weight) because aluminum does not rust.

man, please read this:

[quote]Traditionally, metal panels have not been
recommended for applications located closer than
one mile from the sea’s coast. This
recommendation, however, applies to coated steel
panels, not aluminum. Since steel is highly
susceptible to corrosion, most paint manufacturers
require a heavy primer and film thickness when their
paint system is applied to a metallic coated panel
system. [/quote]

stop listening to guys at roofing supply… they don’t know anything…

Thnx all for the input. Emo-- gorgeous! Just the one small problem re: my house-- the roof would be worth about 3x what the house is! Still, what an upgrade to the neighborhood that would be…sigh (drool).

Sounds like I should follow my instinct that a shingle roof with an experienced local installer that does them all the time is apt to be as good or better than a product that is theoretically higher end but put on by someone who does them less and/or is harder to get my hands on if I ever do have a problem.

Your take as to best architecturals? Other posts I have seen here seem to like GAF/Timberline, or is that misread?

beg to differ LA,
put an airplane on the beach, dont wash it or wax it(leave it alone like a roof), and it will corrode.
check out any old john boat or pontoon boat.
aluminum just corrodes in the salt moisture.

has nothin to do with what i smoke.

galvalume, stainless steel,and copper, do much better.


You should definatly do a tear off. Alot of manufactures will not honor their warranty if it is roofed over another manufactures roof. Yes, you can look from the attic to inspect the roof but you still are only getting half of the picture. I have seen rotted wood that looks perfect on the back side. GAF, Certainteed are pretty much similar. I prefer ELK. If you want a better shingled roof you can also look at 50 year or Lifetime Warrantied shingle roofs (mind you the lifetime warranty is BS but they will last longer than a 30 year shingle will.)

Pick a local contractor that has been there for awhile (grab a old phonebook). Make sure the contractor gets all the permits (or you will be liable) and make sure they have liability insurance and workers comp…

I have an idea for you that you may like. It is a material called LifePine Shakes. They sort of look like cedar but dont have nearly the amount of problems. They also last 50 plus years and have a warranty on them that will ease your mind of any worries. The only problem is that its hard to find contractors certified to install it (We are one of the three in the whole state of WI) and they only allow certified installers to install the material. It will be cheaper than metal, but more than architectural but you wont have to worry about the replacement in 20 years. Most likely, you will be either moved into a new house or moved into a grave by the time it needs replacing :slight_smile:

If you would like more information about them and the material, just let me know and I will get you the web address and some more contact info if you would like.

The factory is also based in SC so maybe you have even heard of them. Take care.