Ice Shield vs. Drip Edge

I’ve been told that an ice shield around the gutters makes a drip edge unnecessary.

Is this true?

um… no.

In some instances we do not use drip edge on the eave,like with slate,tile or cedar aplication. with composition we almost always do. We almost never do drip on the rakes. It makes it look stupid.

who ever told you that…do not let them touch your house.
as far as rake metal. it is very regional. some regions do, some dont. i do it on every house…no exceptions.

[quote=“jerryv”]I’ve been told that an ice shield around the gutters makes a drip edge unnecessary.

Is this true?[/quote]

That is just silly. :roll:

Some houses just dont look good with dripedge up the rake. But it is the proper way.

depends on the expected result.

You don’t need drip edge if:

You want the shingles to curl over the edge of the roof and into the gutter.

You want water to run behind the back of the gutter.( the ice shield should be between the gutter and fascia.)

etc.

Thanks, everyone. I just took this roofer out of consideration. What amazes me is why not install a drip edge if that’s really what’s called for? You just build it into the price.

and then I had two other proposals where they wanted to use flashing cement for the chimney–not metal. One of them is the one that told me that the ice and water shield made the drip edge unneccesary–also ridge vents and soffitt venting will not work because the attic is finished.

And then another proposal wher basically all it said was “remove old shingles, install OC Oakrisge shingle, remove all debris”

With the exception of one decent proposal that I will still consider (and get references) all pretty bad. They think the customer is stupid.

You don’t NEED drip edge, but you might as well considering its nominal added cost. Not needing it has nothing to do with ice shield, however.

[quote=“jerryv”]Thanks, everyone. I just took this roofer out of consideration. What amazes me is why not install a drip edge if that’s really what’s called for? You just build it into the price.

and then I had two other proposals where they wanted to use flashing cement for the chimney–not metal. One of them is the one that told me that the ice and water shield made the drip edge unneccesary–also ridge vents and soffitt venting will not work because the attic is finished.

And then another proposal wher basically all it said was “remove old shingles, install OC Oakrisge shingle, remove all debris”

With the exception of one decent proposal that I will still consider (and get references) all pretty bad. They think the customer is stupid.[/quote]

More often than not, the roofers are just as stupid as most homeowners are ignorant of roofing, Jerry.

He might be right about the ventilation IF your space between the finished ceiling and roof deck is stuffed solid with insulation. If there is airflow, you should be able to accomodate with eave and ridge vents.

Drip edge is for the rake. Apron goes into the gutter, and I have never had a shingle curl into the gutter for lack of drip edge. I do not hang too much over either, though.

I once over heard a Home Depot employee tell a customer that starter courses are not needed if you use Ice & water shield… :roll:

okokokok check this…lay the drip dude.its very inexpensive and takes no skill at all so make it happen.on the eaves lay the drip under the iceguard.on the rakes lay it over the felt.very easy and worth the ssmall effort

bigmike,

What area of the country are you from?

actually thats exactly the way GAF tells me to do it too. i have never had a call back for this detail being wrong.

I think drip edge should always be use, first a lot of roofing company’s are afraid to loose the job cause the price might be too high, so they cut back to a basic roof or provide customer with improper roof specification, not even thinking that eventually, they might have to fix their mistake.
If you combined ice & water shield with the drip edge it’s a great seal around perimeter of the roof not only for hard driven snow or rain, but also for little critters (mice or squirrels) going nesting inside the attic disturbing the insulation and causing other problem…

Hi to everyone, i’m new here

hi damrite…where ya from?

In my experiences, especially with aluminum gutters being part of the application, The ice & water shield should be installed continously from the roof surface to an area behind the gutter, then a drip edge installed to straighten out the starter overhang, and then a 6 inch strip in over the drip edge. Ice dam and gutter ice backup into soffit areas are one of the biggest issues in the Northeast, and keeping the moisture out of the overhang
avoids numerous problems. Where a lot of subdivisions have complete vinyl siding and aluminum trim coverage in place of the old wood trim and shingle/ clapboard systems, a drip edge on the rake allows for a simpler rake coverage installation. I can remember a builder that required a wood shingle starter course across the entire eave area and up the rakes, forcing water to stay on the roof, and causing a small angled edge on the shingles.

I’m from Toronto, Marshall ;-}

my favorite town in the world…i would visit more but they sold the ferry from rochester. (15 minutes from me)