I need a cat 5 hurricane proof roof


#1

AS WE LIVE IN S DADE
WHERE ANDREW HIT IN 92
we need a cat 5 proof roof
we are on a low ridge so no flood or surge no water but rain

decided to go with what I can do without major fights with city hall codes

local roofing inspector has ok my 3 layers of PLYWOOD staggered SCREWED AND GLUED plan is to have a 1 1/2’’+ thick [code is one layer nailed no glue tape edges]
sadly we need the dam membrane paper and NAILS LOT OF NAILS FOR THE DAM CODE over my new wood

THEN A PLASTIC MEMBRANE [that I think could and should replace the tar paper and NAILS ]
to prevent the topping from getting scratched and seal the nailed bottom part
TOPPED BY A 5 V SCREW DOWN STEEL ROOF galvanized
because I got a builders surplussed new stock deal
got the steel 5v roofing way more then I need 104 sheets 21 ft long cheap off an craig’s list ad took two trips to naples so as not to over load the trailer

got to love change orders and we no longer need this new stock [they went with standing seam]

I only need 44 plus 15 for the garage

so edges will be tripled and every other sheet doubled in the middle of the roof plus the peak will be over lapped 5 ft got them so may as well over do it

[code is one layer of the steel]

topped and held in place by
with heavy 1/4’’ x4 ''channel steel over the CBS walls to hold the whole thing in place
welded to the roof cap an other bit of steel and down to the base slab of the house ]not required by the code but the local inspector likes ]
that should be good for wind in a cat5 as the basic structure survived ANDREW BUT THE OLD ROOF DID NOT it failed and rain flooded in
nor will the 26 year old post ANDREW replacement currently leaking


#2

Do what these folks did; https://news.yahoo.com/hurricane-michael-aftermath-homeowner-describes-145145884.html


#3

yes I have see the story

wish it had details and pictures of the roof being built

what do you think of my 3 ply screwed and glued base

and extra layers of the 5 v steel panels

or tie down 1/4’’ by 4’’ straps


#4

Sounds like it will take one hell of a storm to blow that off, sure wouldn’t want to be under when it lands. Do you have any big unprotected overhangs on your house? That would be my biggest concern wind getting under and ripping the whole top of the house off.

Did you consider putting a layor of lead under the metal to protect against fall out? J/k


#5

I admire your willingness to go the extra mile.
I would love to see lots of pics of this project.

I think 3 ply glued is excessive.
Why not that 5/8-3/4 tounge and groove decking
Installed with 8 d ring shank every 4-6 inches?


#6

OVER hangs are about one foot all around the house
except for the front porch about 4 ft x 16
may enclose the porch if I have funds after the roof job
but it will get the 1/4’'x4 steel Chanel also as it has steel tubes supports to a 4x8 beam on top
and bolted to the slab on the bottom
so that should handle the steel strap loads ok that are not that heavy

I figure the total weight of extra plywood and steel about the same a concrete or clay tile roof that other identical homes have built in the same area same contractors to the same truss spec
so while over doing the roof I am not out of total load spec’s
and the screwed glued plywood will help stiffen and spread the load unlike a tile job at the same weight as well the extra steel layers at the edges

UN-desided if the 5v roof steel needs glue or sealing the seams to help stiffness on the extra layers


#7

would love to do that roof lover
but costs are limited by my budget
I got deal on 120 sheets of 5/8 [19/32] 5 core plywood from a completed condo project in the keys
that needed to get their extra stock off the jobsite asap still in shipping bundle strapping

excessive is the goal as cat5’s are excessive and the NEW normal
I figure on trying to be 50% OVER WHAT IS NEEDED FOR A CAT 5 WIND LOADS
then add the 1/4 by 4 steel straps only over the CBS walls at the edges
and steel cap 1/3 a 1/4’’ thick 6’’ pipe split the long way over the peak welded together
to the straps that will be placed under the floor slab so no lift no movement I hope


#8

6" steel pipe cut in half will make a dam nice ridge cap.


#9

I am cheap and 1 pipe split in 1/3 will do the whole top ridge cap with over laps for strengthen
20ft pipe for the whole 44 ft peak
and be a close match to the shape of the bent 5v roofing curve [bent one to test]
while not adding tooo much extra weight


#10

would love to use epoxy glue but it is very high cost nasty to work with ect

I need a cheap strong glue to bond 3 layers of plywood into a single huge sheet

and a glue that can stand high heat cycles under the steel 5v without degrading

titebond 3 liquid nails or other bulk sold glue in 5 gal sizes
what glue do you pro’s like ?

and should the lapped and or stacked 5v metal panels be sealed with glue or caulk

esp at the 2 edge V’s where the most screws are used ?
and or under and/or over around the screw heads ?


#11

pulled my permits and started my tear off

this was a post hurricane ANDREW [cat 5 eyewall strike here] rush BS roof job
done long before I bought the house

they left part of the front lower roof as t&g 1’’ planks butted up to 1/2 plywood with NO transition
guess where it leaked !!!
so all the t&g is coming off down to the rafters
some rot on some rafters so they will be sister-ed one on the 4ft and double on the 8’s
after the bad parts are cut out
no point in a strong roof deck on weak beams
beams sister-ed will be hurricane strapped to code with top-cons screws into the concrete cap

after that we need a peel+stick layer that will self seal the nails and screws [for the metat 5v top]

WHAT DO YOU GUYS LIKE FOR A STRONGER THEN PAPER BASE LAYER THAT SELF SEALS ?

then a fire proof layer top cap required by the new code here

then the 5v metal roofing lapped and doubled on every other sheet

and after all the standard roofing an added set of steel 1/4 thick channel over the CBS walls welded to a 1/4’’ thick 1/3 of a steel pipe all galvanized and painted and tucked under the house slab to anchor with concrete to fill the hole under the slab

I dare wind alone to move that roof
and even impacts should not be too bad

then we start on the tripled plywood deck screwed and glued with wood flooring glue


#12

Biggest thing you need to worry about,espically in Florida, with multiple layors of plywood with a vapor barrier on top is condensation getting trapped. Proper ventilation will be a must.


#13

2 spinner turbine vents + 2 powered fans out at both gable ends and soffit vents to allow air in
when the steel shutters go up the fans are turned off and covered and spinners removed and caped

I wonder if the soffit vents should be covered also
as a person reported drywall fails in the last panhandle hurricane
when the rain was blown in thru vents on the bottom of a porch overhang
in a home with no exterior damage intact roof and shutters but collapsed drywall inside

does anyone make a fireproof SELF-SEALING CAP SHEET
or is the non-fire rated SHEETS the only SELF-SEALING products out there


#14

should I paint the wood [primer or sealer ] on the bottom side to prevent any water from getting in ?
on the bottom layer only not between layers

I never see much condensation as it is rarely and briefly cold here


#15

got the high temp version of Grace Ice and Water Shield.
it is going over shark skin first layer for all plastic no tar/paper

banging and scraping has let up I think the last of the tear/off is done

we did the larger front 1/2 with known problems first [bad t&g planks] sister-ed a bunch of beams added straps
and layed down 2 new layers of 5/8 plywood over the whole 1/2 roof screwed and glued

then started on the back now striped to the original plywood 1/2’’ fist layer
thakfully no rot or bad wood on the back 1/2
and my crew of neighbors wants me to go back to the store to get pipe boots and drip strips

just to make the whole ordeal more fun the wife caught the flu and got a bad infection from her new crones meds suppression effects and had to be hospitalized but is recovering
and gave me the flu also as soon as the sniffles started I got a flu shot and anti-viral meds and hope to avoid the worst of the flu but can’t work so just buy stuff and drive it back

saddly the flu bug killed the picture taking up to now
IF I feel better maybe will gets some