I need a cat 5 hurricane proof roof


#1

AS WE LIVE IN S DADE
WHERE ANDREW HIT IN 92
we need a cat 5 proof roof
we are on a low ridge so no flood or surge no water but rain

decided to go with what I can do without major fights with city hall codes

local roofing inspector has ok my 3 layers of PLYWOOD staggered SCREWED AND GLUED plan is to have a 1 1/2’’+ thick [code is one layer nailed no glue tape edges]
sadly we need the dam membrane paper and NAILS LOT OF NAILS FOR THE DAM CODE over my new wood

THEN A PLASTIC MEMBRANE [that I think could and should replace the tar paper and NAILS ]
to prevent the topping from getting scratched and seal the nailed bottom part
TOPPED BY A 5 V SCREW DOWN STEEL ROOF galvanized
because I got a builders surplussed new stock deal
got the steel 5v roofing way more then I need 104 sheets 21 ft long cheap off an craig’s list ad took two trips to naples so as not to over load the trailer

got to love change orders and we no longer need this new stock [they went with standing seam]

I only need 44 plus 15 for the garage

so edges will be tripled and every other sheet doubled in the middle of the roof plus the peak will be over lapped 5 ft got them so may as well over do it

[code is one layer of the steel]

topped and held in place by
with heavy 1/4’’ x4 ''channel steel over the CBS walls to hold the whole thing in place
welded to the roof cap an other bit of steel and down to the base slab of the house ]not required by the code but the local inspector likes ]
that should be good for wind in a cat5 as the basic structure survived ANDREW BUT THE OLD ROOF DID NOT it failed and rain flooded in
nor will the 26 year old post ANDREW replacement currently leaking


#2

Do what these folks did; https://news.yahoo.com/hurricane-michael-aftermath-homeowner-describes-145145884.html


#3

yes I have see the story

wish it had details and pictures of the roof being built

what do you think of my 3 ply screwed and glued base

and extra layers of the 5 v steel panels

or tie down 1/4’’ by 4’’ straps


#4

Sounds like it will take one hell of a storm to blow that off, sure wouldn’t want to be under when it lands. Do you have any big unprotected overhangs on your house? That would be my biggest concern wind getting under and ripping the whole top of the house off.

Did you consider putting a layor of lead under the metal to protect against fall out? J/k


#5

I admire your willingness to go the extra mile.
I would love to see lots of pics of this project.

I think 3 ply glued is excessive.
Why not that 5/8-3/4 tounge and groove decking
Installed with 8 d ring shank every 4-6 inches?


#6

OVER hangs are about one foot all around the house
except for the front porch about 4 ft x 16
may enclose the porch if I have funds after the roof job
but it will get the 1/4’'x4 steel Chanel also as it has steel tubes supports to a 4x8 beam on top
and bolted to the slab on the bottom
so that should handle the steel strap loads ok that are not that heavy

I figure the total weight of extra plywood and steel about the same a concrete or clay tile roof that other identical homes have built in the same area same contractors to the same truss spec
so while over doing the roof I am not out of total load spec’s
and the screwed glued plywood will help stiffen and spread the load unlike a tile job at the same weight as well the extra steel layers at the edges

UN-desided if the 5v roof steel needs glue or sealing the seams to help stiffness on the extra layers


#7

would love to do that roof lover
but costs are limited by my budget
I got deal on 120 sheets of 5/8 [19/32] 5 core plywood from a completed condo project in the keys
that needed to get their extra stock off the jobsite asap still in shipping bundle strapping

excessive is the goal as cat5’s are excessive and the NEW normal
I figure on trying to be 50% OVER WHAT IS NEEDED FOR A CAT 5 WIND LOADS
then add the 1/4 by 4 steel straps only over the CBS walls at the edges
and steel cap 1/3 a 1/4’’ thick 6’’ pipe split the long way over the peak welded together
to the straps that will be placed under the floor slab so no lift no movement I hope


#8

6" steel pipe cut in half will make a dam nice ridge cap.


#9

I am cheap and 1 pipe split in 1/3 will do the whole top ridge cap with over laps for strengthen
20ft pipe for the whole 44 ft peak
and be a close match to the shape of the bent 5v roofing curve [bent one to test]
while not adding tooo much extra weight


#10

would love to use epoxy glue but it is very high cost nasty to work with ect

I need a cheap strong glue to bond 3 layers of plywood into a single huge sheet

and a glue that can stand high heat cycles under the steel 5v without degrading

titebond 3 liquid nails or other bulk sold glue in 5 gal sizes
what glue do you pro’s like ?

and should the lapped and or stacked 5v metal panels be sealed with glue or caulk

esp at the 2 edge V’s where the most screws are used ?
and or under and/or over around the screw heads ?