How often do you find customers request this? Do any of you do this as standard procedure regardless or customer request? Seems like great reassurance and protection for your whole job as it will seal very well around every nail.
I dont give the homeowner the option.
I do it on everything below 4/12.
And on 4/12s that have trees hanging over them.
If you have 5/12 or above,
I will not give you that option.
I only do it because i feel it really needs it.
Doing this has major drawbacks and shouldnt be done just for fun.
Drawbacks like not being able to remove the shingles in the future.
The shingles are permanently stuck.
I try to ice and water over existing felt whenever i can so it seals around fasteners and i can still easily remove it all in the future.
When everyone will admit that shingles on iceguard are hell to tear off and start paying for this extra $$
Literally have to go extra mile to take off upper portion of each shingle and leave bottom glued to iceguard.
And it will be way worse in upcoming years with two rows requirement enforced by degenerates lobbied by iceguard manufacturers
The iceguard just sticks to the sheathing though - not to the shingles. No?
Ice/water shield over felt is no different than felt over felt. If it is not adhered to the plywood it is no better than any other underlayment. I agree with roof lover on best times to use it; leaf debris, low slope etc. The best way is to adhere directly to plywood then install felt or synthetic over it so shingles don’t adhere. There is also a cheap rosin slip sheet that does the job, which we sometimes use on low slope metal roofs.
I agree that installing felt paper over ice& water shield is a good idea.
I disagree that installing I&W over felt paper
Is no better than installing felt paper over felt paper.
If the roof geometry or other circumstances dictate the need, then install it. Otherwise, a waste of money IMHO. Roofs leak in valleys, around penetrations and where there are flashings. Focus on those areas, properly install the shingles and trust them to do their job.
I have a good friend who has been roofing WAY longer than I have and he would agree with you. His stance is that directly adhering anything to the deck will result in torn material and he may be right. However for ice damming in snow country it absolutely has to be adhered to the sheathing or it will leak.
Ok Canadians, tell me why I’m wrong!
I agree with you about snow and ice application.
I deal with no ice or snow.
I should have pre-faced my comments with that.
It sticks to everything unless you use high temperature.
Only use it where it is required by code or dictated by pitch. Ice and water at the eaves protects the deck from ice dams in cold climates, but full ice and water can cause condensation issues if the roof is not properly vented and destroy the whole deck. Full I&w is a waste of both labor and material costs and will lead to a much more expensive tear off down the road unless you use high temp.
You want the lights and water guard around the ease and up under all flashing don’t every hole on the roof but you got to watch him they’ll take the roll and cut it in half and this is my friend is wrong you supposed to roll a whole roll of water guard not half if you just put a half a piece on it you’re just protecting the boxing why protect the boxing you want to protect the outer wall not the overhang. I have put in ice and water guard on the entire house but it was beside Atlantic Beach that’s about the only place that warrants a whole roof application
I use it on the entire roof on anything under 4/12. I dont price it as an option on those roofs because I feel like it is needed not optional. If your worried about removing the shingles down the road there is an approved application backed by fortified building that allows for underlayment between the ice & water shield & the shingles to be able to replace any shingles down the road.