Homeowner Re-roofing questions


#21

Do I need to leave expansion gap for fascia boards?

I am trying both 45 miter joints and butt joints. I am not sure which is better

Do I use the same roofing nails for drip edge and W-valley metal?

@MPA
When you use Landmark Pro shingles, do you use Shadow Ridge or Mountain Ridge caps? One vendor stock Mountain Ridge but have to special order Shadow Ridge.
Certainteed rep told me that Shadow Ridge is designed to be use with Landmark and Landmark Pro.

Thanks all for your help.


#22

Shadow Ridge or cedar crest.


#23

Is 28 gauge for W-metal ok? Supplier can also get it in 26 gauge.

Should I get 18" or 24" W-valley metal?

Do you use galvanized drip edge or aluminum? One vendor gave me aluminum in quote. If aluminum, I would need to get aluminum nails.

Suppliers gave me quote for Landmark Pro as 3 bd/sq or 4 bd/sq. Most gave me 4 bd/sq.
Certainteed rep told me for Landmark and Landmark Pro they are 3 bd/sq and Landmark Premium is 4 bd/sq.
Why the descrepancy?

Thank you for your time.


#24

What is the pitch of the roof? 24" valley metal won’t hurt anything, gague is up to you.

Steel or aluminum drip also up to you, steel is defently heavier duty, you don’t need aluminum nails if using aluminum edge.

Landmark pro 3 to a sq, premium is 4. You would be able to tell if you were being quoted pro vs premium, here it is around 40$ sq difference.


#25

@MPA

Roof pitch is 4/12.

Landmark Pro is about $20 more than Landmark for my area.

Thanks.


#26

Here it is only 8 but premiums are like 150 a sq. 4/12. 24" valleys good investment in my opinion


#27

Ordered materials today and picked up DiamondDeck and WinterGuard.

Wife and I was going to order Landmark Pro in max/def Moire Black but then we decided on Hunter Green Landmark shingles. Certainteed does not make Landmark Pro in Hunter Green and she likes the Mountain Ridge.

Below is what I will start doing tomorrow and have some questions and if you have suggestions, please let me know.

-Blow off any debris or dust on the decking (I am working on three sections of roof first).

-Put down WinterGuard in this order: along eaves, vent openings, and valleys.
Along eave, I will wrap WinterGuard over eave about 2".
Question: should I also put a 12" strip of WinterGuard on ridge and hip?

-Install drip edge (don’t have these yet until delivery on Monday).
Question: should I leave a 1/4 in gap or 1/8 in gap between fascia board? When I install gutters, I could tuck the gutter under the drip edge.

-Put on DiamondDeck starting at eaves and over drip edge and WinterGuard and also lapping hip; continue up to ridge.
(I will have to remember to mark my large gaps like @roof_lover suggested)

Then I will figure out how to snap my chalk lines and I am sure to have more questions later.

Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank you all.


#28

Sounds good. Don’t wrap the ice shelf over the fascia farther then the metal edge will cover.
When doing your valleys don’t try to use one piece, espically if you are in ca and it’s hot. Start with a manageable piece 5-6’, fold it in half slide into place and peel one side and stick in place. Work a nice tight crease into the valley then peel the other side. You don’t want any big gaps between under the shield in the valley or it will rip if stepped on.


#29

Ok, thanks for good advice.

What about putting a small strip of WinterGuard over hip and ridge?
I recalled reading (most likely from this forum) that someone used window flashing tape. That maybe what I will use over hip and ridge.

Let me know if that is good to do or don’t do it.

Thanks.


#30

No need for anything special with the hips. Lap your Underlayment over 8" to keep it waterproof during the process.


#31

No winter guard over hips and ridges is a waste of time and material IMO. It makes no sense to me in the fact that if water is actually entering in that area (which won’t happen if you install your shingles properly) and the winterguard is actually keeping the water out…it will just run downhill till it gets to an area with regular underlayment and leak anyway.


#32

Thank you for your replies.


#33

I installed WinterGuard over valley and eaves. There are a few spots where the WinterGuard did not stick to the osb. I pushed it down and later I noticed that it pop up again. A few of these spots are along the outside edge of the valley.

This morning, there are fewer spots and I keep pushing them down. Do I need to be concern about them? Should I cut the spots and flatten them down?

I have more questions but will start a new post since this one is getting long.

Thanks.


#34

They are not a concern.


#35

Thank you for your reply.

I will install DiamondDeck today over the whole area and over the WinterGuard.