Homeowner re-roof questions (cont.)-Drip Edge and W-valley metal


#1

For drip edge, do you nail the overlapping joint or don’t nail it for the edging to expand and contract?

I know you don’t nail the overlap with W-valley metals. When I removed the old valley metals, the top edge was flattened and bended over the ridge. Do I do the same for the new valley metals?

What about the end of the valley metal at the drip edge or gutter, leave it or flatten it out? I don’t recall how the original one was and I have already threw the old ones away.

Thank you for your help.


#2

Nail the piss out of the drip edge within reason. You don’t want it coming loose, no need for expansion and contraction. If you are nailing through the valley metal to install in you don’t need to worry about expansion there either. If you are installing the valley with clips I normally nail the top under the lap and let the bottom float.


#3

@MPA

Thank you for your reply so I can finish the installation of drip edges.

I am going to hold the valley in with the nail heads not clips.


#4

Ok, you can nail the top then hold the sides in with nail heads, if not it is possible it will slide down. Where it turns over the ridge just rivit or zip it to the one to the other side and it will not go anywhere.

Nail every 12" or so on drip edge, have gone to repair countless jobs installed by others where the drip edge curled up because they didn’t use enough nails.


#5

Are you installing a shingle roof? If so any asphalt shingles will be long worn out before any metal expansion/contraction issues would develope.


#6

depending on the style of drip edge,i hem the bottom of the valley over it


#8

You could if it is F style drip edge, but on a shingle roof the valley is tyically ran past the metal edge so your shingle overhang intersects your valley cut. I always run them long and trim them after the shingles are installed and cut back. You want to make sure the water ends up in the gutter if you have one.


#9

@IslandRoofing

Yes, I am shingling the roof with Landmark shingles. Thanks.


#10

@MPA

Yes, I will nail the top and let the bottom float. What do you mean when you say “zip it”? I don’t think you mean zip tie?

I was nailing every 16" but will change to 12". I ran out of metals and also having a bit of difficulty with the outside edge. There is also one inside edge but I am not there yet.

Thank you.


#11

Thank you all for your replies and suggestions.


#12

Zip screws…


#13

I nail drip edge every 16”, right on the rafters so nails don’t blow through.


#14
  1. With the first course of DiamondDeck at the eaves, how close to the edge do you cap nail it? Instruction says cap nail every 6" on edges and laps. Can I stay 3-4 in away from drip edge line?

  2. WinterGuard has a 3" strip lined with plastic on the granular side. What is that for? The plastic strip does come off. There are no instructions regarding this strip. Called Certainteed and the rep does not know, he just refers me back to instructions.

Thank you for your time.


#15
  1. Nail it in the diamonds, right in the center.

  2. That is a plastic release film, that is so the lap seals better, it is supposed to be up.


#16

@Axiom
Thank you for answering both my questions. It makes sense about the plastic release. Weird that I did not see that in the instructions and the Certainteed rep did not know.


#17

I forgot to ask if I need to remove the plastic release on the WinterGuard.

If I overlap WinterGuard with DiamondDeck, do I need to remove the plastic release?

If I overlap WinterGuard with another course of WinterGuard, here I would need to remove the plastic release for a better seal?

There is one part of my DiamondDeck installation that is not laying flat; I didn’t stretch it well enough. Do I just leave that part alone or cut it so it lay flat? Not sure if that will show up on the shingles. If I try to remove the cap nails to flatten out the DiamondDeck, I risk damaging the underlayment.

Thank you for your time.


#18

Just cut the wrinkle out as your about to shingle over it. If your concerned about having a cut In the paper, you can cement it for some piece of mind


#19

When installing DiamondDeck, I cap nailed on the diamond prints but stayed away about 12 in from valleys, hip and ridge. Is that good or should I nailed up to 6 inches?

Next, I will be installing the W-valley metals.

Thank you.


#20

No. Keep your nails 12" out of the valley. Hip and ridges don’t matter, however if it’s already done it’s not worth the effort to go back up and add more nails.


#21

Thank you for your replies.

Do I need to apply roof cement for the W-metal overlap? One site shows it but the SAM (Shingle Applicator’s Manual) does not say to.

Should I bend the W metal over the drip edge or leave it 1" past the drip edge?

Thank you.