Hip & Ridge shingles finished with Ring Shank with overlap?

Long-time lurker. Full disclosure I am rarely the boots-on-the roof. I organize and hire crews and deal with customer issues and smaller repairs where a whole crew is unnecessary.

I have a a situation with a customer and a crew and would like some input.

Roof is a 4 hip with standard ridge. Crew ran Timbertex hip shingles up like normal and added an extra cap shingle nailed down over the joint between hip and ridge with a split in it and cemented. Used washer shank nails to secure.

I know this is very common practice where we are but it certainly doesn’t look like the perfect “display model” on the GAF website. In a " by-the book" install we wouldn’t have the extra shingle but would just lay a cap over the ridge and there would be a bit of visible joint at the butt end. As it is there is coverage from 3 shingles under the split and the extra is just to help hold it

Customer says he spoke to GAF by email and was told this was a bad Install, but won’t forward that email.

Of course I’m just getting this info now, when it’s after hours and I can’t reach GAF until morning.

I’m willing to believe that my guys and I all learned from the same backwards country teachers, except we’ve never had leaks doing it this way. In fact customer isn’t complaining about any water penetration, just cosmetic dislike (and of course he’s demanding a GAF rep inspect his whole roof and wants a big discount)

So what say you give mind, is it total crap and we need to stop immediately or is it unusual but not risky? As I said the issue isn’t leaks, and no leaks in the past, I’m competing with something GAF allegedly told customer and have nothing else to go on - which is driving me nuts.

No offence… but that does not look very good from a aesthetic perspective and it’s definitely not sealed from a water shedding perspective. The sealant you have used on the cut that should never be there appears to be leaching the asphalt in the shingle it appears to be a silicone this is common issue and will cause performance issues. Sealant on the over used fasteners is good idea as well (typically one fastener is all that is required). All fasteners should be sealed with a compatible sealant, like a polyurethane sealant close to colour match and tooled into place.

  1. The up slope cap should be cut after the sealant strip line and folded to fit this hides the cut thus negating the sealant required.

  2. One more cap should have been used to extend further over the caps on either hip.

  3. All cuts should never be on the horizontal if exposed cuts are required they are to be down slope positively lapped.

Another way to cap is start at one end and finish in the middle start at the other and meet in the middle, then fasten the last middle cap minimally with 4 exposed fasteners and a compatible sealant in lieu of exposed fasteners one could use some gasket cladding screws.

I’ve added a photo hopefully it helps.

No offense taken. I’m an adult and admit to always learning and sometimes that means challenging what I’ve seen done as not the best.

I can say that the sealant used was through the roof clear. I only know that because that’s always stock on the trucks. as for the cuts it’s certainly not the most attractive and we try to avoid it whenever possible

But again I’m happy to learn new information and look for new methods. We already told the customer we’d be happy to come back out and relay the ridge but his larger request is for a discount off the full roof

Unfortunately removal and re-installation of new capping can not be achieved unless you install a larger ridge cap then existing once existing cap is removed to cover all holes caused by existing fasteners. From my recollection timbertex is a 12” wide cap and 12” cap is the widest I’ve seen doesn’t mean it doesn’t exist “just saying”. So this means the top row of shingles will have to be removed and installed new to eliminate the holes in the shingles before installation of new capping. Honestly you could pretty up that cap and done. It’s unfortunate the customer will not let you have a mock up solution that may work.

Yeah I doubt it. My original solution was installing an additional cap (1/2 thick, like a divided Timbertex or a piece of matching seal-a-ridge) over the joint using sealant and a single fastener with sealant and granule, which would cover all fasteners and not reveal any holes but again he is primarily angling for a discount so acceptance is unlikely.

Why not just replace that cap and follow the 3 steps I recommend. Use the photo to show you client.

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Is their a manufacturers system warranty?

No. This was sold as part of another project and customer rejected any ridgevent or other vent so it didn’t meet manufacturer warranty to begin with.

S.O.B. I didn’t even look at that as I was staring at the ridge cap. That roof will not last at all. Ventilation is crucial

We sold him ridgevent. It was there onsite. Cobra 20’ rigid. He specifically ordered my guys not to install it. Salesman (we’re subs) called and told me not to cut the ridge into the roof that customer didn’t want a ridge cut into his decking

Those shingles are going to dry like bacon. And his attic will be so mouldy smelling.

They will fry not dry

The way you layed the cap in the ridge is just fine.
Its the hip Shingles intersecting the ridge that needs to be re-worked.
Re-work those two areas and it will be perfect.
Install as previous poster pictured.

He doesnt like the exposed fasteners
Even though they are aluminum, ring shank and a washer.

So use standard 1 1/4 coil nail,
Cover with cement, cover that with granules.

I always finished cap with copper nails, kinda turned into trademark…

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hmm,does it need caulking ?if not,i could borrow that idea xD

Shot of butyl or tar underneath. I believe in overkill. When you have hundreds of roofs in service, you do not want to do repairs on them!

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sounds like the same as caulking xD

That’s sort of the question. We’ve got probably 1000 roofs out there like this, over 20 years. No leaks. But customer doesn’t like it.

I did end up contacting GAF who formally ruled it was a non-standard install because of visible nail heads. There tech basically stated “we understand that ring shank nails with washer are considered a reasonable alternative to hidden fastener, but we always recommend hidden fastener. However, this does NOT affect the warranty of the roof” so that’s what I needed to know.

As stated, customer waived regular warranty by telling us it to install vent, but it got us an official answer

Just run the hip detail, and cap off of the point a foot or so. Not worth the drama!

The sealant is under the shingle, where the nail penetrates. You really need to get educated. “Caulk” isn’t just whatever crap comes out of a 10oz tube. Major compatibility problems can occur.

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