Here's my "before"

& Tomorrow (or the next day, or the next… depending on how busy or A.D.D.-distracted I am) I will post the “after” pics.

Currently, this is ~10 sq. of torchdown mod bit however @ first I thought it was a 90# granulated cold process because the seams / laps were so heavily tarred up. Plus, there are gasp staples all OVER the laps! Yoiks… no wonder there are 4 active leaks!

Pitch is about ½:12 to 1:12 @ best (for all but about 3 squares), however @ least there is SOME slope.

I’m installing some custom modified metal for the edges; 6" on the deck, 2" on the drop (2½" drop if you take out the kick).

The new product will be
–CertainTeed FlintPrime primer directly on the deck
–CertainTeed FlintLastic SA Base
–CertainTeed FlintBond seaming cement (to resolve the air voids)
–CertainTeed FlintLastic SA cap sheet

There are no vertical turns, so no cant strips are required.

Access is pretty tight up under the one obvious section, but we’ll be putting in new L flash metal for the head laps, @ least 3" in the narrow spaces & 4" for all others.

The shingle roof is not going to be replaced due to financial constraints (that, & he’s like me & has his fingers crossed for hail). It’s a 2 layer system with a 1x plank decking system.

PVC penetrations will be capped with Portal Plus EPDM boots.

It’s our guess that the low slope section was added on around 12 - 15 years ago.

Now for the photos…

High temps are expected to be ~66F with a medium wind of 10 - 15 mph. There is minimal shade from the East or Southern exposure & about 60% of the way through the day, shade finally hits the affected areas of roof.

nice little project,not 2 be a cunt and all ,but the dude in the pic has his green card right?

Please don’t thread $hi+.

I refuse to answer your question.

Some people just have no respect for others. Ranch seems like a pretty straight shooter. Not to mention roofer12345 they are in Texas.

I just wish I could wear sandals on the roof here in Michigan. A little chilly with 12" of snow on everything.

FWB, my point is that anybody’s “status” isn’t what my post was about.

I placed this under “Construction & Technique” & not “Roofing Business”.

You guys don’t use lead flashings on soil pipes down there or are they not cost effective?

Getting your low slope roofing up under that hip roof is gonna be fun.
How long for the after pics?

are you going to tie into the shingle roof?
may be better off boxin in that over hang.

looks like a few layers.


Could it be!!!..

Tar, my background is in Judo & Shorin - Ryu, not Kempo.

Nice find, though. LoLz

Borna, I prefer to use lead jacks for vent pipes. 3 in 1’s cost about 1/3 in comparison, but some guys use them for trimming cost (but they don’t tell the customer about the potential for failure when the rubber grommet cracks).

OK, here’s the “After” photos.

The house is a 2 layer mess; 2 Layers of 3Tab & I haven’t been into the primary house to see what the underside of the deck looks like… could be cedar over slats for all I know.

Back to the low slope: I had some “In The Middle” shots with the deck all worked over to bare wood, but I think I may have lost that camera… sucks, 'cause I had about 15 pics from this job + photos from 2 other projects. Booooo!

It also turns out this was a 2 layer roof; it had been torched over a cold process (i.e. someone put down some 90# granulated, then slapped a boatload of karnak type goo all over the joints). yuk.

It even showed us using a water roller to get the bubbles out & lay it flat. In this 1st photo, you’ll notice little rectangles - these are covering the little bit of exposed selvage strip that ended up showing themselves when we did a lace type pattern with the layers.

We didn’t really do much with the 3Tab roof; it’s a cost savings thing on the homeowner’s part & he had to do something with the low slope because it had active leaks in 2 spots.

We ended up doing as Gweedo was thinking - boxed in the soffit area (it has exposed rafter tips, so this is actually a help in a few areas).

When we cased in the soffit, the customer was concerned about making one large squirrel racetrack, so we blocked it on both ends.

Another reason for the cased in soffit is that the cap sheet ended at a funky alignment along the underside of the soffit, so we got the metal L flash / trim laid over the cap by about 6" with wood laid over this & attached through to the rafter tips.

When the old torch roof was being torn off, this little free floating “wing” was weakened from the house wall, so we did a repair by bracing it with a new 4x4 (it took about 1 hour for me & one of my guys to go back 2 days after we finished the roof (rain delay) to get it done; no charge to the customer).

I’m spreading the load all across the 1x decking. I used DeckMates both top & bottom (can’t really see it on the top 4x to 4x connection.

The bracket standoff was drilled into the old concrete step & anchored with an expansion bolt (man, do I love me some expansion bolts).

FYI, my quote was the highest he received. 10 Squares, CertainTeed FlintLastic 2 ply (base + cap), 11 pieces of decking (quote provided for 2), no charge for the above mentioned porch repair.

My quote: 3,506.00 + 500.00 to tear out the bad 1x’s over the carport & install 9½ sheets of 3/4 (the other 1½ was used on another section).

We also used Portal Plus EPDM’s for the vent pipes.

One of my guys ended up stepping through the ceiling (easy to do when you’ve got less than 1’ between the top of a rafter & the sheet rock)… we fixed this up to the customer’s satisfaction.

I really really wish I had those other photos & hope I find that digital camera (Sony DSC p70 with a 512 memory stick).

Is the roof and ‘L’ flashing secured to the rafter tails? Or up the actual wall?

The base goes all the way to the wall of the original house & the cap sheet is within 6" of same.

We added the wooden fascia that you see & the metal that is under it.

Looks good Ranch. :slight_smile: