Hail damage on black shingles


#1

Does anybody have any tips on how to Get decent pictures of the hail damage on black shingles? Specifically, on the Owens Corning and IKO onyx black and charcoal black shingles. Right now I just feel around like a blind man but then I can’t get any good pictures of it anyway. And really I just rely on the collateral damage to prove my point. Was hoping somebody had a trick to get better quality pictures.


#2

Try getting a decent LED flashlight and shining it on the hail hits. Try some different angles to see what works best. If that doesn’t work, try lightly dusting the hit and immediate surrounding area with some talcum powder.


#3

CSI style. I will definitely be doing that from now on. thank you


#4

Or you could try using the flash on your camera (or phone if that’s all you got) and taking the picture from more of a side view. (ie. camera closer to the roof)

This creates a shadow making the damage pop out more in the photo.


#5

In my estimating software have access to photo editing. I have adjusted the shadows the contrast and gamma rays etc. What do you think?


#6

Andrew,
I don’t do roofing, but I do a lot of documentary photography.
I think that you want to add documentary photos from a lower angle, at different angles to the lighting on the damage.

Straight down photos are good for detail. Lighting close to the same angle as the camera gives good fill. Good ideas for doing portraits. If you shoot a person’s face and the light is coming from the side, it emphasizes the shape of the face a lot. Shadows from the nose, lips, cheekbones, etc. make those features “pop”. Same thing with photos on the roof. Good, strong lighting is great for find detail, but unless you’ve got lighting coming in from the correct angle, you don’t see the impact depressions.

As mentioned in other emails, try shooting the damage from different angles to the illumination.

If the sun is close behind you, shoot pictures with the full illumination for fine detail, but also move off to the side and shoot at an angle. If the impact was the center of a clock face, you would shoot straight on, then maybe from the 12, 3, 6, and 9 numbers toward the center.

The steeper the angle to target, the more depth you’ll be able to capture.

When the light is at an angle, that gives even better contrast, but I still follow the clock-face directions.

Sorry, that’s a lot to words, but that’s how you can pick up the surface details that you’re looking for.


#7

This is all awesome information. I will absolutely use these suggestions.

Thanks,

Andrew