I am overhanging the shingles and I installed new drip edges. I do not want to ruin the shingles when I go up on the rough for maintenance. Is there something I can install at one point on the roof where I can safely place my ladder? Is there an attachment I could buy to add to my ladder?
Or if you’re cheap just nail a three foot 2x4 (or two) to your fascia under the edge metal and rest you ladder on that.
That’s what works for me.
If you go up on the side of the roof ( rakes ) you will not damage the shingles since is the thick part .
Also get on it when is nice and cool in the morning before the sun heats them up
I have accidentally broken and cracked the overhang on the rake(side of roof) of the shingles by doing this. If the drip edge is used where the metal is flush with the rake edge of the shingles this will work but otherwise naaaaaah, I wouldn’t do that unless they were presidentials on a cooler day and I knew the shingles won’t be compromised.
we use the ladder stand off (stabilizer)
not tryin to be funny bread, but you can move to florida were we dont hang shinles over the edge.
just put your ladder up anywere.
Why isn’t there a need to hang it over the edge in Florida. You do this on the rake ends as well.
its how we roll in the burg,
727, playa from tampa baya!
put the eve drip on, spread some bull on 6-8" wide
1/4-3/8" thick (do not waste bull 1 CAN PR 25 SQ.)
run the shingles even with the drip edge, nail em,
then step them into the bull.
very important to seat them into the bull.
dont squeeze the bull out every for christ sake.
there is to be no bull marks in the roofing vehicle.period.
and bread since your learning to be a roofer online,
(which i think is awsome. wish i had internet back when) i will give you a couple of good peaces of advise about roofing cement.
1 clean the sides of the can as you use the bull.
2 allways clean off your trowel after using it.
3 most important , allways keep bull can
atleast 10 ft away from were you are working.
DO NOT WORK WITH THE BULL CAN RITE NEXT TO YOU.
if you follow those 3 rules analy, roofing will be
alot easier and cleaner for you.
I’ve noticed that everyone seems to worry about water wicking under the starter coarse. That is why they do an overhand. What about the other shingles wicking. The nail line is close the the bottom of the shingle. The nail heads are only covered by a 1/2 inch or so. Wouldn’t wicking be a problem here. This would rust nails and cause roofs to leak everywhere.
common sence is a very important sence, and im glad
to see you have some.
wick, wicker, wicking, to me, should not be used when refering to a roofing problem.
candles, furniture, yes.
water Wicking is the same as capillary action from 8th grade science class.
I think of capillary action/wicking as kind of going against gravity (ie. setting a paper towel partly in a bowl of water and watching the water ‘wick’ up the towel).
What are the examples of capillary action in roofing?
To ‘wick’, mus’nt one absorb? (against rules of roofing theory)
I got this from dictionary.com
wicked (wÃƒâ€žÃ‚Âkt), wickÃƒâ€šÃ‚Â·ing, wicks
To convey or be conveyed by capillary action: water gradually wicking up through the bricks.
capillary action happens in most roofing situations thats why you have to make sure your are giving everything the correct headlap ,it happens when to surfaces touch together basically,will happen on the steepest roofs too , when i set out a roof i never stretch my gauge i always drop down my sizes to work in
wtf are you guys talking about :?: any way i agree with gweedo on the no shingle overhang. it is also practice to make all shingles even with drip and rake in upstate NY. and i have never had or hardly ever seen a rake edge leak (doesn’t mean it cant or wont happen). but once again we are talking about different roofing methods for different regions. we use drip and rake metal with no over hang…some of you use no metal with 2" over hang…etc. very regional