Did you actually bother reading my posts?
I didn’t say you had to mechanically fasten to a concrete deck. I said the roof system needs to be either screwed, nailed, mopped, or adhered. I also agree with you that single-plies can be ballasted. I disagree with you that it is acceptable to install a loose-laid BUR weighted down with gravel. As for the weights, that is no different than saying you need 25 pounds of asphalt per square, it doesn’t mean you need the 25 pounds as ballast.
As for your stratavent, it has holes in it so asphalt moppings can adhere it to the substrate. If you look at your GAF Application and Specification Manual, I just pulled mine out, look at pages 194 - 197, and you will notice that all of GAF’s roofs require some sort of attachment method. Under the caption Bottom Sheet Attachment, they offer the following methods: Torch, Mop, Nail, Screws & Plates, Mop to Perlite, Fastener, and Spot Mop. No where does it say you can loose lay your roof and ballast it. Maybe you live in some area of the U.S. that manufacturer’s waive the requirements put on the rest of us, I don’t know, but I can tell you I’ve done consulting from NY, Chicago, Miami, Houston, D.C., and Hayward (California), and I’ve never seen a ballasted built-up roof. All the built-up roofs I’ve dealt with have been secured to the roof deck in some way, shape or form. Whether it be with Insta-Stik, tube-lock fasteners, asphalt, cap nails, base sheet fasteners, or whatever.
As for the smooth-surfaced BUR only lasting 10 years where you live, they could last longer if the owners properly maintained the roofs by having them periodically re-coated. Unfortunately, with most owners the roof is out of sight, and out of mind. They only think about their roofs once they begin to leak.
So anyway, tell me more about your “ballasted roofs.” Do you get a FM (Factory Mutual) rating against wind uplift? If so, what kind of rating do you get, because I can’t imagine it is more than FM I-60 if FM will even rate your roof.
And no, I’m not mad at you personally. I just don’t appreciate you calling my information “b.s. stories” out of your ignorance. And no, I’m not calling you stupid, ingnorance is a lack of understanding or knowledge. Believe me, I’ve come across old roofers that have questioned what I tell them, and they respond with the “I’ve been doing it this way for 40 years.” Unfortunately, I then have to tell them “well, you’ve been doing it wrong then for 40 years.” Point being, I enforce the material manufacturer’s specifications and requirements, and sometimes during design our requirements exceed the manufacturer’s. For example, on a mod. bit. roof the manufacturer may require a minimum 4-inch end lap, and I may specify a minimum 6-inch end lap. Well guess what, if you are doing work for me you will have to install 6-inch end laps (I actually prefer 9-inches) if you want the building owner to pay you for the work. If you base your bid on my specs, then I expect the work to comply with the specs.
As for you and your loose-laid BUR’s, remind me never to let you bid or work on any of my projects. That is especially true here in Houston, as you would loose your roof and the stone aggregate would become projectiles during tropical storms and hurricanes. BTW, I’ve done consulting work for Cook Co. on several Chicago Fire Stations, and none of those had ballasted BURs. At the same time, I suspect you may install additional gravel on BURs near the lake due to straight-line winds, but that would be something peculiar to your area and not the rest of the U.S.
Put it this way. Guys, how many of you have loose laid a base sheet, mopped your roofing plies to the base, and then weighted it down with a bunch or gravel? Anyone else here put on a roof like that other than Aaron? I mean, I’m always open to learning something new. I won’t ever specify a loose-laid, ballasted BUR, but I’d be interested to know that are people actually installing them.