Drip edge, lead flashing


I have 2 questions. I am in central VA, tinner I know you are too. NO one around here uses drip edge. I grew up in CT so this is a big change for me. Why is there no drip edge used around here?
Also, I’m wondering if anyone has ever seen excessive corrosion from using lead counterflashing with aluminum step flashing on a chimney. I know mixing certain metals can have adverse reactions, but I’m not sure if these two are an issue together.


I don’t recall seeing issues with aluminum and lead.
DE is nothing but an upsell. It can damage wood when installed and shingles run flush with it. I did installit on my house and ran 1 1/4 past it.http://www.roofing.com/images/topics/7477/img_1237257187.jpg I still need to run the gutter, but it’s my house and you know how that goes. :mrgreen:

The ‘normal’ way to build houses was to run the wood over the fascia 3/4 to 1", then the shingles another 1 1/4". They would dip enough to matter, and there was NEVER any fascia damage.
Now builders run it flush and DE is used as a stop-gap measure.


I forgot to mention that if 3tabs are cut off for starters and nails in the bottom inch of wood so the shingles seal right on the bottom edge, they won’t blow off either.
I’ve gone to VA Beach to watch them in the hurricanes with 100mph winds. Done correctly, no damage.

I only tried the Elk starters once. I saw that they only gave 1" headlap, tore the 2 off that I had nailed and threw the rest in the dumpster.


I’ve never installed any roof without evedrip surrounding the entire perimeter.
Also, i haven’t ever torn off a roof where the previous roofer didn’t do the same thing.
So, its been mandatory in this area for over 50 years at least.

All that said, i do still highly respect roofers and area regions that do not install it.


In North Carolina , where I first learned to roof, we used it on everything. On new work, the framers would paper the roof and install the drip edge. I moved 40 miles north to VA and everything changed. No drp edge and the roofer puts on the paper. Go figure


i also had a instance of water wicking back from the shingles ran flush. BUT i this is only one of many ran this way. Needless to say i have started running starter and first course a half inch past. Also certain teed which is my shingle of choice warrents this way. ( And by the way, certain teeds swift start starters are much wider now.) I think they are 7 3/4" or 8 3/4" its late, lol. but anyhow i hear you tinner, i like seeing the generous overlap CT swift Start provides. BTW, is this why i see alot of roofs that have lasted so long, with full three tabs upside down as starters?


“BTW, is this why i see alot of roofs that have lasted so long, with full three tabs upside down as starters?“
Honestly, no. Take a closer look at that method. # tabs have a 1/2” notch every 6” across. When they are just turned around, the water goes through those notchs and they open up. Many times, there is rot across the bottom board every 6" across the eaves.

Reason those roofs lasted so long is the material used was a bit better. Newer roofs are doomed, IMHO, becasue they’re constantly experimenting on how to make do with less.


We use the same shingles were roofing with for starters and gables,starters are nailed 1" above edge.


lol, i must have been half asleep. I ment the starters ran that way must be ONE reason oldtimers roofs last longer than new age. But yes, you are right tinner, materials arnt what they used to be(so i hear, and some times see, with say #1 shake roofs) and come to think about it almost always the bottom 1x is rot, gone or needs replaced. Anyhow think i have only run into maybe three or four houses in my region that havent had drip edge. We dont really get that bad of ice dams here either.


Most state building codes now require drip and edge metal on all edges to bind and cover any exposed plywood or roof sheathing to protect it from exposure to the elements.


With water and ice at all eaves nowadays, how critical do you think having a super tall starter shingle is?