Drip Edge and Decking

I have a customer with a sizable gap between the face of the shingle mold (1x2) and the decking ( 1x8 planks ). It’s a 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 inch gap. the drip edge has a 2 inch tail that is sitting, at 90 degrees to the fascia, on top of the shingle mold (1x2), the fascia board (1x4) and part of the sub fascia (2x4). The tail of the drip edge doesn’t make it to the decking. I thought about custom bending some drip edge with a 4in or so tail so it would grab decking, but it will create a hollow spot where the starter should nail. The only other option, I can think of, is to take the bottom plank of decking off and rip a board that will come all the way out. I typically rip 3/4 in plywood and use it in place of the plank decking. It seems to be more durable when used as a nailing surface. Any thoughts on different solutions?

Yes you are correct about ripping some 3/4.
Ripping some 5/8 OSB would work too.

Couple other things must be done also.
Do not use that metal.
Its not quality.
That 1x2 will start rotting right away
And then start rotting the wood behind it.

The metal needs to come all the way down and cover the 1x2
And with a kick out on the bottom
My metal also has a 5/8 extra kick out at the top also.
Metal that is pre painted should be the norm.
This started as a 6 inch piece of metal.
Approx 3 inches on the roof and total of 3 inches on the face.

Been putting this metal on every eve and rake on every roof for close to 30 years.
I admit my first year or two i installed non painted perimeter metal but at least it was always this profile.

Also tell the customer he needs to paint right away.
And he needs a good painter too!!
And Preferably before the repair so he can paint that 1x2 before it gets covered up by your new eve metal.

After sharing all that, i wouldnt mess with it until roof replacement time.
Because it would all be a waste of money to repair this. I would charge significantly to repair this,
But would charge next to nothing to fix it if i was also replacing the roof.

He desperately needs to repaint his fascia more than he needs this “gap”fixed.

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Thanks Roof-Lover, that’s great advice. I did notice the drip edge didn’t have a kick out. I removed the old gutter so we could assess the damage to the fascia and shingle mold. The gutter didn’t go behind the drip edge. It was installed below the 1x2, what a disaster. I do have a painter coming tomorrow to bid on the paint job of soffit and fascia. I have access to a brake, so I might custom bend some metal for the drip like you mention. He has ship lap plank decking. Do you think I can get the insurance company to pay for a code upgrade to sheet decking? If so, I could overlay and bring the new decking out to the fascia as it should be.

If there is a big gap between the decking boards ( consistently over 1/4 inch)
I would sheet over it.

If insurance is paying for roof,
I would expect them to pay for the decking too.
I am not an insurance specialist though.
Someone else here can help you with that
But you might need to start another thread with that question maybe. Maybe not.

Again, you want your new metal to come to the bottom of the 1x2.

Even though you are remaking the metal with a much larger face, There is a chance, you might need to take the extra step to remove the 1x2 and raise it up
To the bottom of your new decking…
3/4 Inches higher or even 1 1/2 if you are really doing an entire deck over.
Make sure of your calculations before the painter arrives…

Gotcha, I’m going to try the code upgrade deal and see about sheathing the whole roof. If I do that I can bring the new sheathing out flush with the top of the 1x2. If not, I’m going to take about 3 rows of shingles off all the way around, remove the bottom plank and rip sheathing to fill the area flush to the 1x2. Then, I will use some underlayment to temp the edge in until the roofing crew can get to it. I will, also, use a wider drip edge.