Double Hip/Ridge Repair

Hello, what is the best way to fix this roofing problem? For example, should I leave everything alone and just nail one hip shingle over the one that tore off? Should I shave off shingle C and then hammer in a new shingle beginning with where B ends with on overlap? Ideally, I think it is better to lift up A and B and put a new shingle under B and over D. However A and B are nailed down and I do not want to disturb them if it is not necessary. I am also concerned about damaging them.

Should I use more than one shingle? If so, what is the best way to do it?

I will be using IKO Ridge/Hip shingles that go with IKO Cambridge shingles. I plan to do the work around noon on Thursday, a 70 degree day.

Thank you so much for your help!

That cap is GAF timbertex cap and has an 8" exposure, the IKO stuff isn’t compatible.

In lieu of actual timbertex cap you can use 2 layers of GAF seal a ridge cap.

Thank you for your response!

The current shingles are IKO Cambridge 30 AR Earthtone Cedar. According to the manufacturer, “Hip & Ridge Shingles used for installation of [IKO Cambridge 30 AR] Shingles must be Marathon Ultra AR, IKO Ultra HP, IKO Hip & Ridge 12, IKO Hip & Ridge Plus or an IKO approved equivalent product”. Are you saying not to use IKO and go with GAF?

I think the existing Ridge/Hip shingles have three layers on the end with the visible black piece and two layers on the other end. Is the GAF shingle you are suggesting the Timbertex Cedarwood Abbey Premium Hip and Ridge Shingles?

Also, do you recommend either a brown or clear roof cement that I can use? My idea was to shave off the visible part of shingle C, nail a shingle adjacent to shingle B and then apply roof cement between shingle B and the new shingle C. Would that work? Is there a better way to do it?

I appreciate the expertise of any of you in solving this problem!

You can use whatever color caulk you like or have available.

The repair this just take it apart and put it back together the same way it came apart.


So, do not use IKO shingles?

Is shaving off shingle C and installing one right next to B and then applying cement between them not a good fix? I was trying to avoid lifting up A and B because they seem to be secure in their places.

With the roof cement, I was wondering if anyone had a recommendation for a clear or brown cement?

You should be able to lift up shingle A high enough the remove the nails.

Remove the shingle that is cut and has caulk on it, remove shingles B & C.

Replace the shingles the same way that they were installed, you can use any color caulk you like.

OK. Thank you.

I appreciate your patience as I have never done this.

So, I should remove the nail on A hidden under the brown cement, lift up the shingle next to A and remove A. Then lift up nails on B and C and remove those shingles. Install a new C, B, and A in that order, two nail in each. Cut the loose end of A like before, nail it with a single nail in the center and apply cement. Is that basically what you are suggesting?

With regard to the caulk I meant a brand. For example, Ultima Clear Roof Sealant or any other.

Those look like timbertex shakewood ridge caps
Not sure why they were used on your IKO roof,but most likely just for aesthetics.
Relatively simple repair as previously noted.
Any roof caulk will work, I would use roof cement just so you had some to reseal anything you needed to unseal

All the advice you have gotten is spot on. My point to add is after you use the roof cement in a tube is to have some rags handy. The material will keep coming out of the tube and you putting a rag over the end will help you from creating a big mess.

Thanks everyone! I really appreciate all the input. For example, I did not think that the Hip and Ridge were another brand, GAF and not IKO.

I think the way you all are imagining the job being done is the proper way to do it, that is to replace A, B, and C. However, I am unsure if I will create a new problem in the process. I have never done this before.

What I have confidence in doing is removing the visible part of C, installing one GAF Timbertex Shakewood Premium Hip and Ridge Shingle, applying roof cement at the joint of B and the new C, and sprinkling granules on it as well as on the cement over the exposed nails on B. I hope that will hold. If it does not then perhaps a professional is needed.

Is my idea a bad solution?

With my idea, should I do only two nails or four nails (one set driving through the black part of the new C and the second through C and D)? I wonder in particular since GAF Timbertex Hip and Ridge are double layered.

I am putting this off until Monday or Tuesday for better weather.

Just do like I said, take it apart and put it back together the same way it came apart.

You can do it, I’m certain.

With this cap the nail holding the cap doesn’t go through the cap below it, stupid I know but this is GAF cap.


Thanks for the support Axiom! A and B are firm in place; that’s why I didn’t want to mess with it. I will reconsider doing it the proper way. In that case, I wonder about one thing. A is a single layer shingle. If I buy Timbertex Hip and Ridge, I also need to buy GAF Seal-A-Ridge (or IKO Hip & Ridge 12) since it is one layer—is that right?

I don’t understand why if it goes through one GAF cap why it would not go through another. My concerns were the strength of the hold because it does not penetrate the deck as much and the creation of two other holes. I think they drove a nail through A where the brown stuff is.

You need 5-6 of the timbertex cap some 1 1/2" - 2" roofing nails, and a little caulk.

Quit overthinking it and just do it, the bundle of cap you need to buy will have plenty of spares for you to figure it out.


Alright. I know it is a simple job for a roofer.

I am wondering about the black part on D. That is actually a third layer. Is that how Timbertex Premium Hip and Ridge Shingles are made? The whole hip has that pattern, three layers on one end and two layers on the other end.


Yes that is how they are made.

They are the only ones I know of that are made like that, it’s a premium item and they look great until they blow off.

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Hi everyone, I completed the job; however, not as you envisioned. I did not remove anything, including the torn shingle. Everything was firm and I didn’t want to mess with it. I slipped a single-layered shingle underneath shingle C and another single-layered shingle above it. On top of that I placed half of a shingle. Then, I hammered in four 1.75" nails except the one on the top left. At that point, I figured I should put a nail at the top left to prevent wind from lifting it up, which may have caused the original problem. I inserted pieces of shingle into the gap and nailed the fifth nail. Then I used Loctite PL Black Polyurethane Roof and Flashing Sealant to seal the junction between shingle B and the new shingle C as well as between the new shingle C and the small piece of new shingle which is overlapped the wrong way.

Does anyone think what I did is functionally a problem?

Thank you all for your input! I appreciate it.

It will work the way you did it.

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