Any one ever have a Gc not want to pay the extra money for cutting the flashing into the brick. Now I am in Georgia code here says nothing about actually cutting flashing into mortar joints however the manufacturers recommend this and so do I but i get the 'IT AIN’T CODE I AIN’T DOING IT" But when there is a leak they want you to fix it (for free ). Just curious at this point do you walk away from the job at the beginning or hope it dosent leak & get paid. I am quite certain that if there ever was any litigation the buck will probably stop with the roofer being accused of not doing a quality job.
We’d quote it done right, and if they don’t like the price they can hire someone else. You’re paid for your expertise, not just labor, and the buck will stop with you if it leaks!
If you are providing a warranty, then I would write in an exclusion that states the step-counterflashing was not done in accordance with your recommendations, and you will not warranty any leaks that result because of the deviation.
When I leave my jobs no chimney is left unless it’s got good counterflashing on it. With a 30 year labor warranty you have to do everything right yourself.
Doing a chimney this week on a 4/12 roof. 10.3ft by 3.3 ft chimney with three valleys running off it and two peaks running into it. The chimney is leaking all the way around. Only course of action I told the homeowner is to take up three ft around the whole thing, apply Winterguard and replace the flashing. $2,000 to do it right and do another 3ft by 2ft chimney.
purely out of curiosuty, how would you do it if ice barriers were not available?
i like cerbs reply.
if ya dont like doin it just dont warranty it. put it in writin.
i dont warranty standin, seam metal roofs, all together, against blow off and/or leakage, and people still have me put them on.
ill just say this about flashin/counterflashin.
ive got surface mount flashin on brick chimneys all over tampa bay.
it works fine for me.
i dont use a 2 peace system ( L flashin followed by counter flashin).
i just brake a 1/2" caulk joint along the top of the 4x6.
1 peace of metal, arount the chimney, caulked at the top.
Guys i appreciate your comments as they have been vary helpful. :mrgreen: