Im going to roof my own house and i was needing some advice.the existing roof has a course at the top of my dormer that doesn’t match up with a course on the other side.how can i measure to avoid this problem?can you tell me how much i should stagger them when i start my roof.im putting on tamko hertiage 30 yr. dimensions are 38-3/4" x 13-1/4" thanks for any help
Read the instructions on the package and snap your lines every 5 1/2" horizontally.
For other posters: it has been a while since I put on a Tamko, when did they go metric?
a tape and a chalk line and you will be OK.
Purchase a roll or two of G-Tape Metric. Your neighbors will think you’re a pro !!
Work one side all the way past the dormer and then snap a horizontal line with the first full row above the dormer, all the way across the other side.
Then, use your tape measure and mark off the exact same reveals that you had on the opposite side and do that close to the dormer on that opposite side and also far away towards the rake edge. Then snap all of those lines too.
Someone has a product that eliminates all that line snapping on this board…
yeah, thats it…G
Use some G-Tape
when you bring up the second side , as soon as you can, start lookin over at the first side.
looking over at the the first side you should be able to raise or lower each course a little on the second side, so by the time you hit the top of the dormer the 2 sides will line up.
as far as how you rack them.
you dont want my honest opionin on that one.
what ever you do , dont have a stupid short course
runnin half way across your house.
cant stand seein that.
If you use the New Timberline / Elks you can snap 1 line , and they lay themself from there… I had trouble w/ Herritage 30s snappin every 4th line. And they are 5" exposure…
The true exposure is usually slightly less than advertised, a very small amount but it builds up…
If you are using a shingle with a 5 5/8" exposure and snap lines every 4 courses the lines would be 22 1/2"
Well if you do this you will find that every time you come to a line there will be nails showing.
This discrepancy is within the tolerance printed on the package and it is fairly regular, across all brands I have used.
We snap our lines every 22 1/4" and when we hit a line it is usually dead on, sometimes there will still be nails showing (most frequently with Timberlines and oakridges), sometimes it goes the other way.
More than once with Timberlines we had to snap our lines at 22" and still occasionally had nails showing…
This is one of the main reasons I don’t like them.
Experienced shinglers that snap lines already know this.
This is why it is unwise to shingle without lines, your tie-ins will get all forked up.
It has very little to do with the skill or experience of the shingler.
It is the shingles, they are not of uniform size throughout lot #'s.
The only shingles that I can think of that are consistently of uniform size is Certainteed XT’s.
We don’t see too many of them, I insist on them for 3-tab roofs, for this reason.
Snap every line.
I agree with snapping the lines.
What i dont agree with is racking the shingles. That is not an approved meathod of instalation. But hey thats on the wrapped of the shingles. It even states not to rack them. But what do i know i just work here.