Built in gutters


I just looked at a job today with gutters built into the cornice. First time I’ve dealt with these and I’m wondering what the best course of action is. The original gutters are all wood cornice with a copper cap. The copper is sloped back towards the house and then had a hole cut in it into the downspout. Somewhere along the way it was vinyl sided and the siding man covered the cornice and copper cap with aluminum. Looks like he cut the hole in the aluminum for the downspout with his hammer claw. My plan currently is to just tear the wood cornice completely off the house, patch up the siding and nail a 2x6 to the top edge of the wall. Then I will wrap it with a custom piece of aluminum drip edge to also cover the fascia board. Main roof is about 1/12 standing seam roof. It looks like it was sprayed with a good layer of that metallic paint some years back, but it leaks pretty bad now. Plan on tearing it off and replacing with flintlastic. So I guess I have 3 questions:
1)Anyone have a better plan for the gutters?
2)I’ve never tore a standing seam roof before, what can I expect?
3)Never worked with Flintlastic before-what can i expect?


use a 100# roller for your flintlastic


We use 1 layer torch on hidden gutters


Is this a nice house, in a nice neighborhood, with decent homeowners willing to pay for the right job?


We have rebuilt many of the built-in gutters and then used torch down material on it-torching it on and it looks great when done. Used certainteed torchdown or derbigum or flintastic-a lot of them are so similar that there is almost no difference in product.


Tearing off metal is cleaner than asphalt tear,goes quicker when you get a rhythm going


Dennis-the house is actually in a relatively poor neighborhood. The people living there do not own it, it is a guy I do a bunch of work for who owns like 60 rentals. This one’s been leaking for 7 years. It’s amazing to me because I’ll think I’ve seen the worst one he owns and then he pulls out something new. He does have money but sometimes requires a little convincing to fix things right. He’ll argue that its in a poor neighborhood and the people there have nowhere to go, then I’ll ask him how he’s sees this ending and what is his goal with this property when the people move out? Then he usually will fix things right.


That’s too bad, but that’s how it goes.

If you decide to reline the gutters, the best way I’ve seen is to use EPDM (other than copper/metal). It molds to the corners better.
And there’s no flame next to a tinder box. :o



EDPM is the way to go. Easiest to work with.


Lefty-would you re-line the gutters or rip them off and put up aluminum? I’m not sure if your saying epdm for the roof itself or to re-line the gutters.thnx



I would reline the gutter.

To remove the box gutter is a lot of work. You have to frame for regular gutter. Then paint or cover that with aluminum.


Lefty, the only thing is that I feel like these gutters are contributing to the overall problem with this place. They were originally lined with copper, then aluminum over top, and somewhere along the way someone sprayed them with tar or liquid roof or something. I’m not sure if I could get them clean enough to adhere. Maybe rip the metal off first and apply EPDM to the wood underneath?
If I do go the route of tearing them off what do you think the best route to go is? My plan is to nail up a 2x4 or x6 and wrap it with aluminum and hang the gutter on that. Obviously it would be better to scab tails on the rafters and create an overhang but considering the location of this house and that it’s a rental I don’t think he’ll want to pay for all of that. Have you ever experienced problems from running a gutter right up against the house?



The gutter design is not the problem. The repairs that have been done are the problem.

Tearing them off and making a flat face board is a lot more involved then you think. First staging the area to do this is a big think. these box gutters that you talk of are ussually 3 storys up.

Strip off the loose layers down to the original metal. Put recovery board down and then glue your rubber.


Lefty, what is recovery board?



It is a wood fiber board, 4x8 sheets. You use screws and plates to hold it down. Then glue the rubber to it.