After a recent wind storm, I lost some shingles and can see the plywood. I inspected the roof and found a 2-3 foot section towards the peak of the roof that didn’t have the base paper. Is this normal? Do I need to place the paper down before replacing the shingles?
Not quite normal, but you can replace the shingles without the paper.
If you were to for some reason lose shingles again, wouldn’t you feel a bit more comfortable if you DID have felt on there giving you @ least temporary protection?
You’ll be up there anyhow, so why not go ahead & put some in? Depending on how large an area you have, you may only need about Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â¼ or less of a roll (do an “up & over” measurement then a L to R for a total surface area). The cost per roll is about $ 15.00 or so; it’s probable that you only need 15 pound (15 #) felt, especially if you’re up @ the top of the roof & won’t be doing much walking on the felt.
You need felt + some plastic caps - no need to invest in a stapler for tin tabs, IMO.
If you were to approach ME @ my local supply house, I’d probably give you some scraps that would = Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â¼ roll or less, so you might even give this a shot. No plastic caps, though, as I’m a tin tab guy.
It is not normal…Use felt underlayment…
When I inspected the roof it appears to run the length of the house. As if some body ran out of felt when the roof was put on.
Jim, what you’re describing is probably exactly what happened. Instead of hustling out & getting one last roll, the crew just went ahead & shingled it.
You can replace the shingles without the felt.
Is this the original roof?
Felt or no felt, we love that topic here.
It tends to create lively discussions, to say the least… :roll:
We always use an underlayment
That is a pretty sound reason to invest $4 - $8 per sq in felt.
Normally if conditions exist that result in your shingles laying in your or your neighbors yard, it is usually accompanied by rain.
If properly applied, felt will and does protect a structure from water intrusion, for weeks…
If it is a hard rain considerable damage can result rather quickly.
I bet your nice new 47" LCD doesn’t play nice with water.
Felt can save it.
Your insulation doesn’t work if it is wet, and if it gets wet after it is installed, mold growth can result.
Felt can save that also.
Damage to drywall, carpets, trim, etc.
Felt can save it.
It takes a while to damage the framing, a persistent leak.
So not using felt will not result in your house falling down or anything like that.
The benefits of not using felt are that you can save $200 - $400 out of the $8,000 - $10,000 is costs to install a common roof.
Some people are unable to fix this themselves, if there if felt on your roof it will buy you some time to get someone over there to repair it, this can take a while sometimes…
Or if you are able to fix it yourself it will buy you some time to fix it under better conditions.
A fiberglass 15# felt or standard 30# felt will also stand up to considerable wind, if applied correctly.
You don’t have to use felt, the shingles are what protects your home.
They don’t work very well when they are on the ground though.
I bet your shingles were nailed too high, proper fastening of the shingles is of paramount importance.
They rarely blow off if fastened correctly.
Short of a tornado or hurricane.
who ever did your roof probably wasnt making much a profit, and said the hell with buyin another roll.
put some underlayment up there and replace your shingles.
have i done the same thing before? yes
is it rite? no.
This is not the first time shingles have blown off. I have repaired the others but this time there is about twenty some. The house is only five years old in a subdivision with all the homes built by the same builder and none of the neighbors have had missing shingles. I am starting to get ticked off.Since now it is my responsibilty to fix it the right way. When somebody was paid but took a short cut.
Thanks for all the advice.
[quote]Since now it is my responsibility to fix it the right way. When somebody was paid but took a short cut.
IMO the builder is usually the one who took the short cut. More and more builders are ‘awarding’ work to the lowest bidder capable of handling their work available. If someone is getting a fair price to do work a shortcut is rarely taken, not with reputation and all that good stuff on the line. A good question is if the builder said house ‘A’ is going to cost an extra $30,000 because they used the best workers in town. Or would you want house ‘B’ the one next door for less, because they workers are real good, but they all work for less. Which would you pick? Or neither? Cheaper workers equals a better selling price for the builder. Roofers are getting less today in new construction than 10 years ago, and thats without inflation figured in. I would have to assume that the other trades have this problem too.
If the builder is suppling the materials. The materials are short a roll of paper. You get paid no more for waiting maybe 2 days for the roll of paper. The builder if you can find him, will get the paper at his earliest convience. So you finish.
The missing paper is not why the shingles blew off.
I have read a report that say’s a radiant barrier below the shingles will only raise the shingle temp. 5deg. & that it can be used as an underlayment for shingles. What do you think ?
What purpose does this serve?
Is that temp increase 5F or 5C?
Is this radiant barrier underlayment wind resistant?
Is is water resistant?
How long can this product be exposed to the elements before it degrades?
What type of walking surface does it have?
Does this product require any special tools or procedures to install correctly?
How is this radiant barrier supposed to work under roofing material?
Was this report written by a representative of the radiant barrier manufacturer?
I took a class in thermal transfer when I was in college. I too am curious how this radiant barrier underlayment works.
I guess the real problem you have here is someone used poor nailing practices or your shingles would have never blown off. Depending on the age, you could still have a labor warranty from someone?
Radiant barrier??? Vapor barrier??? Wind barrier??? thermal barrier??? Is this a sheet membrane underlayment??? what type material is this that you are referring to and can you tell me manufacturer or source of this article you read
If the roof is old and needs to be replaced try calling your insurance company. If the shingles are no longer made and they can’t find a “like kind and quality” shingle you may be entitled to a new roof.
This way IF the insurance did total it you can find a good roofer to fix the problem once and for all.
Most insurance companies send a shingle to a company who checks to see if they match and if they do they tell you what brand and color.
Or just take the shingle(s) that blew off and bring to a lumber yars since they usually carry more brands than say the big box stores and buy a bundle and fix yourself.
I’ve done quite a few roofs in the past couple years that only a couple shingles blew off and the insurance company paid for a total replacement. What adjusters have told me is if the shingles blow off and water enters the house the roof claim can get very large with interior damage. Last Fall bid on a roof with 5 year old Timberlines were three shingles blew off and the insurance company paid for the whole thing! A roofer who bid on it replaced the missing shingles and it looked like nothing ever happened. She did have the roof done however.