Advice needed, shingling roof line transition

Good day gents, would you be able to give some advice on how to shingle the transition seen in the picture? I’ll upload a better picture tomorrow.

My thoughts are:

  1. Shingle both side of the smaller roof right up to the transition. One side is currently done (the right side looking at the pic) and the last course is about 2" from the ridge (the reveal that is). The shingle that overlaps the transition is by half of a full shingle.

  2. Cut the that shingle so that one half wraps over the ridge and the other half keeps going along the larger roof line

  3. When I shingle the other side of the smaller roof, wrap over the ridge by no more than 3". There will be step flashing all the way up the wall/roof.

  4. Install the ridge caps as per normal from behind me in the picture all the way to the transition. But not passed it.

  5. Install the facia and drip edge, and slide the drip edge under the other half of that shingle.

  6. Install shingle as per normal after that on the larger roof.

Thank you

Everyone gets to learn today.

Here is pic of me replacing all the wood in this area because the roofer didnt know how to roof it properly.

Here is how you roof it properly.

Or rather, this is how you prepare the decking in this area so you can roof it properly.


You’re a great roofer. Thank you for educating “everyone “.


I wish I had asked the question earlier :o/

The good news is that I can replicate it. I had that whole area apart to replace the decking, I simply put it back to its original configuration with screws HaHa!!!. There was a whole lot of flashing in that area when we took it apart. Luckily, it never leaked.

Did you have to build additional support to take the load off at the bottom of the rake? I gather the roof takes most of that load with the cross members that support the sub-facia… just wondering.

And, if I may, would you happen to have a picture of the final product? Shingled and everything… that would be FANTASTIC! and my last hurdle would be solved.

Thank you again for taking the time!

If it is framed properly, the rake Board should not be
Wedged and supported by the Below decking.
There should be a space.
If there is not, i create one with a sawzaw.
The framing should have “outriggers”
That support the rake board.

Our shingles and underlayment need to slide ALL the way under these rake boards And to the wall.
All the way under the soffit as far as you can.

As you can see, the cap shingles go up under it also.

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That is great, thank you! I do have a few more questions if you don’t mind:

How big do you make the gap between the rake board and the decking? 1’-1.5"? I gather not too big so that it won’t look like crap, but big enough so that the rake board doesn’t touch the shingles and enough space for water to flow under.

I was planning on doubling up the cap shingles (for looks mainly), would you recommend against it once I reach the rake board?

This is a 3/12 pitch so I am going to run out of head room to nail the shingles and cap shingles down right under the eave, what would you recommend I do for those?

Do I need to make the step flashing stick out of the slot and wrap around the ridge in any way?

Thank you, it is greatly appreciated

Thanks again!

So following the lead of the masters here, I went ahead and replicated your fine work ;o)

I figured it was going to be at least an inch so I started there.

Then I did a trial run to see how it would look like. The pitch being 3/12, having basically 4 layers of shingle (2 shingles wrapped over and the cap shingles) it created a bit of a hump that looked to be a flat spot to the untrained eye. Note: It wasn’t overly warm when I put the shingles down so they didn’t have time to form completely and are sticking up a little making it look worst.

SO I did a water run off test to make sure water wasn’t going to pool on that shingle and it past… I think. I left it to dry for about 2 hours (in the shade and temp was about 70F… maybe high 60s. There was only a small drop that was still standing on that shingle. everything else had dried out. Being in the Seattle area, Fall to spring is really WET… everyday almost… and summers are dry as a bone. So I don’t think this is an issue, but any thoughts on the subject are welcomed. I won’t be able to double up on the cap shingles, it would make the hump too high and it would get really tight under the eave.

Only issues I have is that the last course at the ridge is as high as it can be which made the next course a bit tricky over the transition. The nail strip is directly within 1/2" of the end of the plywood at the transition. I will not be able to nail the shingle in the nail strip for the first 14" or so. I will have to nail higher because the nails will simply go into the shingle under the eave and I am not sure I am comfortable making the gap any bigger considering where the nail strip aligns at. (I’m using 1-1/4" nails). Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I used another method, but that’ll work.

Well done Husamyster.

My only super small critique is you dont have to cut quite that much next time.
I hope you didnt think that i was inferring to making the cut all the way to the wall.
I dont use my tape measure on this but we usually only cut about one foot In or so.

Well done though.
Looks real good so far. Your cuts are so nice and straight…
Sometimes this gets done with just a drywall hatchet…

As long as you’re happy, I’m happy ;o)

The cut is 1 foot, maybe 13". I understood in your earlier post to cut as far as I could and to the wall if I can. The eaves on double wides are not very wide. Regardless, as long as it works, we’re off to the races.

Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

I’ll post the final product once it is done.

Cheers… Bottoms up!

In the future I would be careful using Durations on 3-12.

Sorry, I meant to say do not use Durations on 3-12 if you can avoid it.

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Yeah!!! I heard it from a few people… A bit too late now. I heard the nails get wet easily due to bad design… is there anything else?

For the future, which brands are best? Been meaning to ask that question.

In my opinion Malarkey is the best for low slope application because of the tapered nailing area. I am not familiar with Atlas since it is not in our area but have heard good things from good roofers. NO GAF! Have you seen their puny ass non granulated nailing area? I still can’t comprehend how any good roofer could hold that piece of Kleenex in their hand then install it.

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The final product. I did have to build up the first foot or so of the first shingle that goes over the cap shingles to give it a little more slope for the water to run off.

The cap shingles had to be singled out once at the transition or else the hump would have been huge.

Hope this meets the expectations :crossed_fingers: :sweat_smile:


That is a nice looking job and your courses are nice and straight. However, I am going to nitpick a little because that’s what we do on our work. I would have rounded the cut on the left and right sides to fade it in somewhat. It looks like a misguided short course and if you round cuts it really cleans it up. Minor detail but things lifelong roofers obsess over.

Happy it passed inspection!

So if I understand what you said correctly, round up the right corner of the last cap shingle on the right and the left corner of the 1st course on the left… or the second last cap shingle?

That’s correct but it has nothing to do with functionality, it is just something a roofer does to fine tune appearance. It looks like you did a great job.