Which contractor would you choose?


#1

This forum has been a wealth of information and has helped me to understand the questions I should be asking to replace my roof.

I have 66sq, mostly 2 story, with a 12/12 or 2 roofers have said 16/12 roof.
All estimates were for GAF/ELK prestique HD 30yr, with 30lb felt.
With 6 estimates, I have eliminated the lowest $10,500 and the highest $15,500 (he said roof was 71 sq) and have the selection to 3 possibilities.

What other questions or advice do you recommend to choose the contractor ??

Roofer 1 - $13990 (Master elite GAF)
Nails 6
3 boards plywood free
Drip Edge DL long in almond
108 lnr ft ridge vent Cobra 3 (wants to run vent to end)
Hip/ridge 20yr (additional $990 for Timbertex)
7 yr labour warranty

Roofer 2 - $13,800 (really nice guy)
Nails 6
3 boards plywood free
2x2x10 painted drip edge
80 lnr ft cobra ridge vent
Extra $720 for z ridge shingles
7 yr labour warranty

Roofer 3 - $12090 (not met him yet)
Nails 4
2 boards plywood free
z ridge to ridge line (questioned this and says he does not use cobra)
leave existing metal eaves to drip line (questioned this and said he will do unpainted drip line)
80 lnr ft of shingle over ridge vents with smooth ridge in 7 sections
5 yr labour warranty

There seem to be different opinions between Timbertex being better than z ridge.
Also is using a 20yr shingle over ridge vents, in the Houston heat a good idea?

Can I just use the timbertex over the ridge vents and the 3 tab on the hip, or would that not look right?

The attics are almost separated into 3, and only 1 has intake, with soffit vents on the north and part of the south side. I know I need to install more vents, or redo the eaves with hardie soffit.
From what I have been told - instead of 50/50 the new thing is as much intake as possible!
I only have one old turbine that hardly turns so should this be eliminated or replaced.

Thanks for any help so I can make a more informed decision.


#2

Real quick answer. but defendant upon how he presents himself during the interview with you, is Roofer # 3.

I will go into more details either later tonight or tomorrow morning as I have to run right now.

Also, just because the square counts come up different is not a reason to disqualify one contractor. He may be adding in the starters and hip and ridge cap and rake edge bleeder strips and valley overlaps into his count which easily could be the small square amount difference.

Make the estimate defendant upon total squares used if that puts your mind at ease. Ask him to explain the difference. Who has the most detailed scaled drawing with all measurements written down. I could just as easily see 3 guys being short on a complex roof count as being slightly over.

Ed


#3

Thank you for the response.

Roofer #1 spent lots of time on the roof, and I did see his drawing briefly, where he had drawn out each section with measurements. He said 59sq plus starter.

Roofer #2 looked at roof from ground and measured in his head. He said if he is short then it’s out of his pocket.

Was not home when #3 was around.
This roofer was one I called from reading a previous post by Aggie007, and Cerberus had recommended him.

Again the most expensive quote was because he said 71 including starter/ridge. He spent some time on the roof.
He wrote on contract that if any materials were over, he would deduct their cost and installation cost from the total bill. Then he laughed!


#4

Just a little F.Y.I.
A Master Elite contractor has the ability to offer you the Golden Pledge Warranty…This is 15 yr labor and material warranty w/includes the cost of tear off and disposal of shingles…in the event that this is required…the only catch is that he must use Shingle Mate or Deck armor paper…Gaf/Elk Starter shingles…(not 3 tabs cut)and he should include either seal a riTimbertex cap shingles…Sounds to me like he is using his certified status to secure jobs,then skimps on the materials…if al the products are used(Gaf/ELk) you have an integrated roof system that is designed to give you the most protection,and the best warranty that you can get from the manufacture…this warranty covers materials for 25 yrs, But will be voided if you cap off a 30yr shingle w/3 tabs…also covers entire roof system(not just shingles)…
So if the Master elite will not include this warranty, I would eliminate him imediately…also I would reccomend that you upgrade to Lifetime shingles for about 1200.00 mroe,and then you will never hve to go through thhis process again! The warranty is also 1 time transferable…Good Luck!


#5

In that heat i would not use a 3 tab for capping. Soffit must be done or the warranty will be void due to impropper ventilation. Thats my 2 cents.


#6

In my area this job would be conservatively priced at about $ 26,400.00 for 1 layer off…so if the highest guy was 15,500.00 ask if his quote maybe he was including a better felt,and Timbertex cap,and true starter shingles…These are not cheap to buy, but they do make a big difference in the appearance of the roof and also added protection from the elements,and also from a warranty stand point…smart choice warrant is 5 yrs up front coverage…6 nails is 130 mph wind warranty…if nailed on the line! High nailing voids any warranty…I know my prices are higher than most of the guys in my area…but if the roof is not installed properly,it is not worth a DIME!


#7

golden pledge is non pro rated for 20 years as of 2008. also includes 20 years workmanship.


#8

Sounds like I have some calls to make and find out exactly what the roofers will be putting on the hip/ridge lines.

The Master Elite guy has Hip-n-ridge at 20yr, doesn’t say what it is. The Timbertex was an extra $990. Sounds like that would be worth it if he was going to give me the golden pledge warranty too.

Roofer #3 may be Ed the Roofer’s choice because he mentions z-ridge. However, if he does not use Cobra and uses the vented ridge crest, I loose exhaust ventilation, and by my calcs it takes me below the minimum requirement.

The most expensive guy was actually quoting Certainteed Landmark.

jwoolfsroofing- lifetime shingles? I figure a 30yr will last about 20. How long do lifetime last - 25-30?
Also - if I do that I would need to use a company that is going to be around for a while?
I thought I read somewhere on this forum that it was not worth paying the extra to go past a 30yr shingle.
I probably won’t be living in this house past more years.


#9

Eliminate any contractor that uses 3-tabs for cap, unless it is a 3-tab roof.
Disqualify any contractor that wants to re-use the drip edge and/or pipe boots.
You should get ridge vents on all ridges, the entire length.
You should get felt, it doesn’t really matter if it is synthetic, standard 15#, 30#, or premium 15#.

These are relatively small things that are part of the roof.
If they are too cheap to use the proper accessories they will most likely be cutting corners on the installation also.

Perhaps they got the impression that you are price driven and were trying to keep costs low.
Let them know that you want a bid for a good roof not necessarily the cheapest roof…\

30 yr GAF/Elk or a 30 yr Landmark will serve you well.
Get a lifetime shingle for the look not the warranty, they look better, thicker, more texture.
They will look good for a little longer (5-10 yrs)than a 30 yr, but they are not going to last for 50 yrs…

For my area those prices are extremely cheap, about what we would charge for labor alone…
I think that they are all too cheap to do a good job, maybe try some other contractors.
But I realize you are in Texas and roofing is cheaper there, I find it hard to believe it is that much cheaper.

How long do they estimate it will take to do this roof?


#10

I am a landmark fan, so the most expensive would be my choice.

A good question would be how much is your time worth? How much is your roofers time worth? Only he knows, I wouldn’t worry about the pricing (easy for me to say). The most important thing is your comfort level with the contractor. Odds are the guy with the higher numbers has/will be in business longer. Does that mean higher quality work? I dunno. Who ever you feel is the most trust worthy would be my choice. The rest is like comparing shoes. The both go on your feet, help you to walk, but some people just prefer different brands.


#11

Axiom - the people I have spoken to have all said 2-3 days to do the job.

Yes - I have read that prices are cheaper in Houston.
I was also told that before Katrina and Rita in 2005, my roof would have cost around $10K.


#12

[quote=“susieq”]Axiom - the people I have spoken to have all said 2-3 days to do the job.

Yes - I have read that prices are cheaper in Houston.
I was also told that before Katrina and Rita in 2005, my roof would have cost around $10K.[/quote]

They must have small armies working for them.
66 sq of steep roof off, dried in, and back on is pretty damn quick.


#13

I would go with the Landmark guy if he’s a Sellect company. Check out the Premium line or even better yet the Landmark TL line.

Most Timberline roofs I look at by age 10 have cracks on them. Not spider web cracks but cracks that split the shingle in half.

All the Landmark roofs I’ve been on by age 10 have had no cracks.


#14

Same here. In my experience Landmark roofs are a lot more durable than most Timberline roofs.
complete construction - roofing, siding, windows, contractor


#15

What I dont understand is why anyone would still want to put anything certainteed on their house? Does anyone realize the legal troubles they are having because of their product or was I the only one who was told that.


#16

i use certainteed siding exclusivly and have no idea what you are talking about.


#17

I was talking about shingles, not siding. I didnt even know they made siding. Maybe I am just that mich out of it but I know around here they are in a huge lawsuit because of the shingles they made 10-15 years ago that were made out of organic materials, thinking that would be the next best thing. Turns out those 30 year roofs are already having major problems. I know that they are offering huge discounts to people if they had a roof but on with that type of shingle and if they use new certainteed materials. Perhaps that is just around here though. I also heard that they are having huge problems with their surenail line because that line sure doesnt hold.

Have you heard any of this?


#18

Oops, I meant the Owens Corning Surenail when I said that before. Sorry guys.


#19

Bam every manufacturer has had the same problem. Certainteed is only paying prorated on the warranty per the warranty handbook printed to the date of the shingles. Atleaset they are paying, people are pist that they are not paying for a full roof.


#20

Yeah I get what youre saying. I used to only use ELK before it was bought out by GAF. I never heard anyone have problems with them.