I have an old equipment barn that is now 3 tab with ice and water under entire roof.i know its wrong I bought it that way.have met with 2 roofers to replace.both say ice and water will not come up. both say strip 3 tabs and overlay ice and water with 7/16 osb.then adhere epdm to osb.size of building 26x76 dictates buy 30 sq to use 20 sq so not to have a lot of seams.or half the money can put bitumenes cap sheet on osb.alot of joints cause pitch runs hi to low on the 26.plan to keep for at least 10 years.wondering what the pros would do.what do you guys think.thank you.
Comes in white or silver. Same warranty as epdm…10 yrs. Properly applied I’ve had 100% success with over 1000 rolls applied…
Commercial…“flat roofing” products are extremely expensive and labor intensive. Only flat roof material I know of with a longer than 10 yr product warranty is granulated surface torch down…12 yrs. MFM is the BEST solution for projects for most homeowners.
just looked at mfm.thanks.how about certinteed flintastic cap sheet local supply hous carry it…can all these products be applied to osb.can anything be applied to old ice and water that will stay on roof,or will it be a mess like these guys say. I have epdm on my house pushing 20 yrs old. flat roof with ponding.one of these roofers installed it.
If you strip the shingles and pull all the nails…you should be able to felt over the old peel and install new roof over new underlayment.
Jm 60 mil tpo, mechanically attached is good for 20 years they say. Or a couple bucks more 80 mil, get 25 or 30 years. If im selling in 10 i put on a 20 yr roof.
Not that hard to put on, no reason you cant go over iws. Get the drip edge bent up locally. Call around i get someone has it in stock too.
Assumes not high wind area of course.
Sell the $400 heat gun on ebay when done.
Is that mfg warranty or life expectancy Mia?
Will they sell the warranty to diy? But yes for contractors.
don’t know if these guys know tpo.didnt mention it.they are subcontractors
for some of builders I do excavating for.mostly shingles.one did my rubber
roof on part of house,didnt look great and didn’t strip tar/gravel.but it
worked for long time.traded digging work for labor.i bought materials.some
seams opened but fixed with cover tape.we both know now to use cover tape
from new install.anyway,i’m trying not to re deck with osb unless have to.
what would work best.i like peel and stick bitumen or the mfm you guys
showed me to look up. if I can get local.got abc,harvey,beacon near me.or
do you buy online.at 76’ iwill have 2 joints per course.is that bad.these
guys think so but are not very familiar with product.thank you.
I would not put osb over existing ice shield and flat roofing on top. Ice shield is a vapor barrier and so is any flat roofing product. Any trapped moisture and condensation that forms bewtween the ice shield and finished roofing will become trapped and absorbed by the osb, breaking it down and causing the roof to fail prematurely.
Neither mfm or Certainteed require certification to install that I’m aware of. I know certainteed warranty is strictly based on application. Believe mfm is the same…
Easiest thing I know of: 3 rolls JM 60 mil TPO 10’ x 100’. (Might get away with an 8’ x 100’ roll if its really only 26’ wide.) A bucket of screws and a bucket of caps. 4 sheets of TPO metal, eek out 60 LF drip edge per. You’ll have plenty TPO left to cut strips for striping in drip edge.
You want to get fancy with it, cover with 1/4" roofboard first. This is insurance against nailpops.
Beacon stocks this here. Don’t know about there. Assuming not in FL of course. TPO gotta be under $125/sq, roofboard under $50/sq, 4x8 sheets TPO coated metal $150 each? Under $3500 for TPO, $1000 for roofboard, $600 for metal sheets. $5k plus labor, screws, profit, etc. Should be a super easy job if really a flat rectangle, only have to weld 152 LF plus drip edges. Don’t know if it’d save you to go with less TPO (only 8’ rolls) and more labor/welding. You should get 20 years out of it.
Don’t know how much that MFM stuff costs, might be a better deal! I’ve used their underlayment, I liked it. If the MFM stuff costs a good bit less than half the TPO I’d do that. If its half or more…eh, I’d probably TPO. Or I’d PVC if I was going to roofboard it first.
I am not a roofer. Do whatever they say. I’m just telling you what I’d do.
MFM PEEL N STIK avg cost is $100 per roll…not including underlayment. I like to put it down to well fastened fiberglass base sheet…
On another note…just passed all my CT MSA and Wizard tests again…
thanks guys.i will talk to roofers about tpo.tpo website makes it sound
great and seems most of you like it better than epdm.can I put it right on
the existing ice /water.am in rhode island,cold winters but building is
only heated with bullet heaters when repairing equipment.not steady.would
this affect the moisture problem that mpa spoke of.would hot direct sun and
cool nights make moisture.i know it does in equipment fuel tanks.would I
use base sheet on ice/water with mfm or certinteed peel and stick,it would
be cheaper probably not last as long.i will be thinking.have 2 monthes,dont
want to open roof in winter.unless you guys think water from 6-8 small
leaks will damage structure in that time.thanks.
So, fiberglass base sheet is $15/sq, MFM P&S is $100/sq, $115 total plus screws etc. $2300 plus much less labor for 20 squares.
You use the primer they call for?
I guess it’s up to him. Or the roofers. I’d probably go TPO, not enough savings there and I hate doing things twice. But I’d be doing it myself so…
Can you put it directly on IWS? Sure, I guess you could, the reason they put down roofboard first is to prevent nail pops. Its up to you if you risk it. If your deck is flat, smooth, and you don’t think there are any nails pops for the next 20+ years…