What if NO cuts were made for installed Vented Drip Edge?


#1

Using a contractor here in Maryland who is a Certainteed Master Shingle Applicator, who just completed my house roof using Landmark TL and Air Vent’s ShingleVent II and Vented Drip Edge.

My questions are about the installation of the Vented Drip Edge:

  1. where is the cut made to provide intake into the atttic with VDE, on the top of the fascia, or on the bottom-most area of the roof deck?

[At the ends of a short run of gutter/VDE, where the end of the VDE is exposed, I cannot see evidence of any cut on either the fascia board or bottom plank of the roof deck.]

  1. In the garage, which is an older garage with no insulation or ceiling, where both ShingleVent II and VDE are installed, I can see no intake opening from the inside.

  2. The roofer did not remove the gutters in any area where VDE was installed. Wouldn’ t this make it impossible to make any cut for the VDE?

Does it sound like the VDE was installed properly? I unfortunately did not check as they were going along to verify if any cuts were made and I understand that if the cut was made to the bottom of the roof pitch it would not be visible now.

thanks in advance


#2

IMO, VDE should have a slot cut on the fascia, not the roofdeck. On the roofdeck leaves no room for venting since the flange sits over the hole, and would have to allow ice infiltration. You should be able to see it if you can see the bottom of the roof deck to the edge.

If he didnt remove the gutters, I see no way of doing it.


#3

[quote=“AaronB.”]IMO, VDE should have a slot cut on the fascia, not the roofdeck. On the roofdeck leaves no room for venting since the flange sits over the hole, and would have to allow ice infiltration. You should be able to see it if you can see the bottom of the roof deck to the edge.

If he didnt remove the gutters, I see no way of doing it.[/quote]

They did not remove any of the gutters during install of the VDE, not even the ones that were to be completely replaced. So, to fit the VDE in they cut slots in its fascia wrap, with this result:
http://img.clubphoto.com/jerboa/181342073/512/null/image.jpg

Since they didn’t put an end cap on one of the VDE’s, I could see that:

  1. they didn’t do a cut on the fascia OR the roof deck
  2. they installed the VDE too low to the gutter
  3. they didn’t even nail the VDE’s fascia wrap in, leaving it free to debris and water intrusion and leave the louvers out of parallel with the ground
    http://img.clubphoto.com/jerboa/181342992/512/null/image.jpghttp://img.clubphoto.com/jerboa/181342074/512/null/image.jpg

Unfortunately I didn’t read up on VDE until now and see that Air Vent says “Vented Drip Edge works best without a gutter. If a gutter will be used, follow these notes listed below,” none of which they followed.

On top of that, it really looks like they made no cuts to service the intake behind any of the VDE :x ! Where the install is visible because they didn’t use end caps it’s clear enough that they didn’t do the cuts; on several of the other gutters things are sealed up so the only way I can verify if cuts were made would be from the attic inspection, which I have cut through a wall to do.

Given the complexity of trying to “fix it” (pulling off the gutters, cutting the fascia, attaching the VDE fascia wrap, then reinstalling the gutter at the proper, lower position), would it be better to have them remove or cut off the exposed portion of the VDE and install soffit vents instead?

The complete set of pics is here


#4

I think they should remove the improperly performed work and remedy it according to mfg. specs. at no cost to you, but that’s just they way I roll.

My contracts state “all work is to be performed to manufacturer specifications and/or industry standards.” Doing things by the book costs me a lot of work because it takes quality craftsmen to do it right. These guys do not work for free.


#5

I agree with Aaron, have them redo the work to comply with the manufacturer’s specifications.


#6

I agree have them redo the work.


#7

god im glad i live in florida.
no vented eve drip here. its hard enough to get regular eve drip on rite.
is that crap made of plastic?

sorry you got took.

gweedo.


#8

sorry you got took<<
Well, actually, I only have paid the 33% to start the work. The remainder is due on completion and even the owner of the company, who called me yesterday, agrees the work is not completed to specification yet.

Aaron, Cereberus, gtp1003: Having them complete or redo the work right, according to Air Vent’s specs* is my intention, but:

**Is it possible to remove VDE from under the starter course of shingle without damaging the underlayment/shingle, etc.? **
The shingle underlay portion of VDE goes up perhaps 4-6"inder the starter course…

I did an attic crawl last night and confirmed from the inside that they did no cuts in the fascia or bottom-most roof deck plank (1x6") for any run of the VDE.

To properly install it they would have to remove all the gutters, make a cut per Air Vent specs, properly attach the fascia wrap of the VDE, and rehang the gutters at least 2" lower. Not to mention removing the insulation on the inside of the the intake vent from attic.

I’m really wondering if I should have them just remove the VDE and do soffit vents instead. All the locations in question have good soffits at least 6" wide and these appear to be unobstructed in the attics (at least more open than the fascia/roof deck, which are covered with insulation).

Should I make them go through with a proper VDE install or soffit vents or …

thanks!

*http://www.airvent.com/pdf/installation/Proflow-install.pdf


#9

Hi,

[quote]All the locations in question have good soffits at least 6" wide and these appear to be unobstructed in the attics (at least more open than the fascia/roof deck, which are covered with insulation).
[/quote]

I am assuming you expressed this wrong.

If the fascia and roof deck are covered. How is the soffit clear? That does not make sense. The soffit is at a lower point then the roof deck.


#10

In the attic, the roof is covered with old insulation; loose white material behind cardboard that runs the length of the joists; in most cases the end where it meets the fascia, the cardboard and/or insulation covers both roof and fascia.

The soffit below it is unobstructed by insulation and, from the outside is only covered by siding.

Here’s a pic: isn’t the soffit the horizontal board closest to the junction of the roof deck and fascia, which are covered by insulation?
http://img.clubphoto.com/jerboa/181808749/512/null/image.jpg
It is mostly clear of material in this picture.


#11

In this pic from another location, the board on the bottom of the pic with the pronounced grain on its end is horizontal and meets the fascia, or middle board; the topmost one is the lowest plank in the roof deck.

http://img.clubphoto.com/jerboa/181808742/512/null/image.jpg

Isn’t that lower board the inside side of the soffit?

BTW, this shows that no cuts were made for the VDE in fascia or roof deck.


#12

Hi,

Your soffit is not clear. The 2x4 you are talking about is the top of your outside wall.

Any intake you use will not work. The way your rafters and ceiling joists are insulated do not allow air flow.


#13

[quote=“Lefty”]Hi,

Your soffit is not clear. The 2x4 you are talking about is the top of your outside wall.

Any intake you use will not work. The way your rafters and ceiling joists are insulated do not allow air flow.[/quote]

That seems rather categorical - “any intake will not work” :shock:
Keep in mind I’m not ruling out adjusting the insulation to open the interior surface of the fascia or soffit to allow an intake cut to be made.


#14

Hi,

The way the insulation is installed no air can flow thru.

Insulation installed against the underside of the roof deck defeats the purpose of the insulation.

Insulation is supposed to keep the heat in the house not the attic.


#15

Lefty, thanks for your answers.

Ideally the insulation would not be there to get in the way of direct airflow from an intake to the outtake, but this is a 70 year old house. I have no idea of when the insulation was installed (or of what material this loose-fill insulation is composed).

I have to work with what I have for now.

So my next question: if I removed the insulation at the bottom, like this, and provided an intake there
http://img.clubphoto.com/jerboa/181808741/512/null/image.jpg

in conjunction with the new ridge vents without access similarly opened to outflow, wouldn’t the air flow around this insulation and up to the outflow?

Since it doesn’t appear they made any cuts for the VDE, am I better off having them remove it or would that mean the whole roof has to be redone?

Feel like taking a job down here in MD :smiley: ?

p.s. on doing the attic inspection, the floor joists are very open with no insulation. I may well go ahead and investigate putting insulation in properly there.


#16

Your insulating material may be rock wool.link.


#17

It looks like you have baffles installed between the rafters. If that is the case, air will flow through to the ridge when you open up the eave for your vented drip edge. Baffles are commonly installed when eave vents are used with blown-in insulation.


#18

Now I thought that was more insulation up to the roof deck, which, we all know, is bad for the roofdeck by way of condensation issues.

If that attic is unheated, then I would remove that insulation (if indeed it is insulation) and place it on the attic floor. This would be an easy DIY solution if you could keep from falling through the cieling under you. Then have the roofer come back and re-work your vented drip.


#19

sorry for my useless reply.
sometimes i reply to threads i shouldnt.

gweedo.


#20

The pictures you posted are SCARY.
I don’t see one pictures that show where anyone is doing anything but roofing. I don’t see a sign that anyone cares. No inspecting, no pulling boards, no cutting boards.
I am sorry for saying this, but if all we did on a job was roof, why would anyone call us to re-roof? Shouldn’t I just be banging on shingles on new houses?

You keep showing that crummy flashing job over the entry. Is that on purpose? Do you want a comment? Well it sucks.
The 1st picture you showed w/ the apron metal put in all sideways w/ tar on the nailheads was all I needed to see.
These people HAVE NO PRIDE in their workmanship, jobs or company.
SLASH & BURN baby is it.

BTW Aluminum & copper are incompatible. Is there a separation between the two where they added it?

I think I know the answer. It would take too long.
What kind of roof are they tearing off? Looks like slate. If so… Why?