Ventilation


#1

I am still repairing boards on this roof and today can strip the second half, rip it then do the repairs as needed.

Ran into someone who knew the previous owner, he verified he stuffed the bats in paper in the rafters and filled the attic and that he even told him you are nuts it will not breath. We figured the shingles which were IKO lasted 12 years and also told him about the mold in the soffit areas.

So am thinking about ventilation as I do repairs as there are boards up at the top hip of the home that need attention however if I used some form of continious vent then it has to be approached differently.

I havent’ seen the stuff and know there are different types. Had been told to use three whirly birds or Duraflo weather pro turbos.

Do the ridge vents work the very best period?

Do they look decent on a home, better or worse. I reazlie function comes first so will try to find someone with these on their home to take a look.

Does Certainteed make one, I thought I read here one day they do.

Thanks,

Warren


#2

Depending on the length of the ridge you could use ridge vents. It is the most efficient way of ventilating. Warren if you could give me the length and width of your home, with a picture of the ridge i will be able to give you the exact length you need for the ridge vent. Understanding that you must have the correct if not more amounts of soffit vents or the ridge vent will not work. If you have a home that has a long ridge you can go length to length but you also must have the proper 50 50 or 60 40 combo to allow the ridge vent to work. You can email the pic if you want. Hope this helps.


#3

do you know how to remove mold on the boards that are not rotted Warren? Let me know if you don’t.


#4

this is a simple cottage type roof. It has the top then at each end it goes down to the corner of the home. I forgot to put the measure in and will double check but it was at least 32 feet of the 60 foot long home, now 60 feet includes a single car garage.

In the soffict area we cut back a slot that is approximately 1- 1 1/2" from the facia board. Next year I will do the facia too much for me to rebuild a whole roof and and and and.

As far as the mold thing, what I did was spray Zinzer bathroom paint on it, this paint has an ammonia or other nasty stuff that stops it and stops it from regrowing. It was not really bad but just on the rafters and not on the pine, now that the home can breath for the first time it will be dry in there for once and also will have air passing through.

I left the boards on either side of the top till I get more info. Lots of broken boards or rather boards that you cannot walk on spaning the rafters cause they are weak or broken out where a large knot is, one of the worst things is the type of pine they use, wish it was a better grade then there wouild be smaller tight knots.

Anyway back up on the roof, like the song says I guess.

Thanks,

Will check later

Still have to find a roofer but a few more days and have one extra heavy duty tarp so it will all be covered and fine till I do.

I posted a pick of the home previously if you send me an e-mail I can send a photo in 30 seconds of the home. My e-mail address is sawdust@look.ca I wouild post again but I am too slow to work my way through.

Thanks,

Warren


#5

did measure 32 feet long. didn’t get a photo was out there all day till now, supposed to snow. Approximate length to the end of the home at each side is another 16 feet for the 60 approx total and the one side the 16 foot measure is over a garage that goes from the front to the rear of the home.

And for the mold thing what is the correct way, I did what I did and it seems to have worked fine but people had told me to spray bleach in there. I thought with the paint since it has the stuff in it and it is supposed to prevent it from regrowing it should work well.

Thanks,

Warren


#6

Plain old bleach.spray on and scrub to remove the mold. Then use an inhibitor to prevent the mold from re-growing. Thats what we have used in the past and have had good results with it.

As far as what ridge vent to use here is a link http://www.airvent.com/homeowner/products/ridgeVents-shingleVent2A.shtml


#7

found the supplier for the air Vent 11 and will pick some up tomorrow.

I think they only carry one model does that make sense I thought I saw two on the web site.

Comes in brown and black will go with brown for the heather blend shingles.

From what I can see on the fax it says to cut the roof boards back 3/4 of an inch to either side of the hip center is that correct also to stop it 6" from the ends as that is where my ridge stops and goes down to each corner of the home.

Now the hip board is going to be 3/4 of an inch or more so they must mean at least 3/4 of an inch of either side of the hip board.

Thanks,

Warren


#8

Warren you got that roof all done yet? its getting cold and the weather is not far away from being nasty.


#9

about ventilation and got this one from you. Roof is all rebuilt as of yesterday. Today cut the air intake and have a question about the drip edge was going to post it later but maybe do it now.

Going back to drip that Aaraon had said was for Rake edges. I checked with my supplier who assured me it is for guitters and I checked with Certainteed and they said it was fine, guys on one coast use one style and the other use another.

So assuming what I have is okay and Aaron brought up a point saying it is not bent to match the pitch on a roof and was right, however from two suppliers one is bent to match and one is a right angle, the one I have is a right angle.

The issue is someone posted that it is better to pull the drip out a bit from the facia board and this will prevent capilarry action. I tested my sample and found that when it sits out so the bottom edge is not supported by resting on the facia the strength of the drip edge goes way down. So I thought I will cut strips of wood staple them on to the top edge of the facia and then there will be support for the drip, I can have it sit out 1/4" and it will still be supported and have strength.

I can do this easily but thought what about the ics and water then, orginally was going to wrap it around and down the facia 1", then do the 12" section over the drip as suggested by a few of the guys here.

If that is the case would I still wrap the ice and water around this wooden add on support strip or would be be better to put the ice and water on then add the strip after.

Realize it is nit picking but getting near the end and all other has been solved at this point.

So GTP1003 thanks for asking, I had a guy lined up and he was pushing for friday saying there were no more good days to do this, I said I am not ready, he said lets do half, he was pushing way too much and I know the weather is changing but after rebuiding so much and almost to the point of having it all together I could just not push through the last few details. He got pissed at me so have to find someone else. I can;t believe last friday was the last day anyone can roof and I said change me with someone else, I have had five roofers tell me they go right through the winter.

Yes it took me forever to get the roof into shape, now that I have learned I could cut that time down massively. If i could post photos easily like I send them in e-mails I would put 8-12 photos to show the changes. When my time frees up a bit more will try to post on the site I did a while back, I didn’t quite get it figured out so they pop up in the e-mail but was close.

Thanks for asking it is appreciated, someone cares. If you were a bit closer I would be trying to put a hammer in your hand.

Thanks,

Warren

:smiley: