Valley Details?


#1

Anyone have all the - Details as to How and What ?

I’d like Open Valleys with Metal. Like You get from a Metal Roof . Using Shingles - 40 Yr.
How Should those be Laid in Valley ( Cut the Ears )?

What Should be Under the 24" W - Valley - Metal ?

The Peaks - where the Valley’s Run together at the Top
Should have what Details - done Where they Come Together ?

The Bottom of the Valley Where - It Exits from a
12 x 12 -Out into the Gutter - as There would be some Open Area Under the W Valley Material , is this a Concern about Water from the Gutter and Ice Build ?

Thanks to All


#2

I’d like Open Valleys with Metal. Like You get from a Metal Roof . Using Shingles - 40 Yr.
How Should those be Laid in Valley ( Cut the Ears )?
They should be lain to the valley and cut back to follow the valley about 2-3" back from center. Then cut back the ears, which is cutting the top conrner of the shingle in the valley so it is square, and about 2" long. A bead of asphalt should then be put between the shingles and metal.

What Should be Under the 24" W - Valley - Metal ?
Water and Ice shield

The Peaks - where the Valley’s Run together at the Top
I ahve asked this question before, I don’t know if on this site. I always run my ridge caps over that topmost point and back onto the main roof. I see roofs all the time that have caps stop and leave the metal exposed, but I haven’t done it that way.

The Bottom of the Valley Where - It Exits from a
12 x 12 -Out into the Gutter - as There would be some Open Area Under the W Valley Material , is this a Concern about Water from the Gutter and Ice Build ?
Use water & ice at eaves and then overlap the piece in the valley onto it. use drip edge if still concerned


#3

Hi,

Is there metal valleys there now?


#4

I Lefty , -No there’s No Metal in Valley other then what is on the Deck , then Ice & Water and 90#

Redoing Old Roof , seeing 90 only has a Life of 15 yrs. & the - Old Valley’s were Open , I just Thought the Open Valley would Look Better on Older Home , so a 45 yr. Metal - 24" X 10’ Sections of 26 Gauge. - Would Way Out Perform - Other Methods?

Issues are Shouldn’t - The Roofing be installed - with Out - Ears - running both Sides of the Open Metal Valley ? - For that Matter Shouldn’t those Ears - Come Off on a Closed Valley ( Some Contract’s Say Yes Other No , and Shingle Manufactures will only Accept Certain Methods .


#5

Hi,

I like the look of metal valleys myself. I have never used a "“W” valley. Just a "V"and never had a problem.

If there were metal valleys there now you could just copy the cuts and install the new valleys.

Tinner probably has pictures.


#6

I Believe the W Style Allows More for Roof Movement.
LOL, Just Copy the Cuts , There’s a Plan .

So Your Ears are On of Trimmed Off Like Mr. Shangled The Lady


#7

man…


#8

What?? :roll:


#9

Try the link??? I couldn’t upload or link normally.

http://www.rooferscoffeeshop.com/images/photo_albums/30/834/Clipped top.JPG

For open or cali valley’s the shingles that end in th evalley MUST have the tops cut parallel to the rafters. Straight up and down. I have pics of open valleys that never had I&W done this way, over 30 years old, that have sometimes sat under 20+ inches of snow on 5/12 roofs and never leaked.
You might havr to e-mail me since I can’t upload today.


#10

There are 3 type of valley’s
Open,closed and woven.
In an open valley put cement in the valley then a half sheet of ice and water the length of the valley then a full sheet of ice and water. run metal the full length of the valley make sure that the ice and water is pressed in tight in valley. nail metal with required nails (i.e. copper)if that is your metal of choice for the valley. Run bead of cement 3 to 6 inches out of valley shingles should be cut back 3 yo 6 inches in an open valley. Cut the top of shingles when installing ,thats called a clip or a dog ear.
If you have a double valley over lap metal at ridge with a 45 degree run ridge caps from dormer over metal into main roof before installing shingles on main roof. cut metal at drip edge or let it over hang one inch you can bend that over the drip edge to lock it down.
In a closed valley the most important shingle is the first one on the first course of the main roof always run that one in first. Your under layment should be ice and water 1/2 sheet with a full sheet over run the dormer roof courses in first extending past the valley one foot press in tight never nail within 6 inches of any valley. put down cement 4inches out of the valley run main course shingles into valley snap a line the length of the valley down the over shingles 2inches at the top and 3 inches at the bottom cut valley clip the tops of the shingles for run off.
In a woven valley the main roof is run in first then the first course on the dormer then the main roof then the dormer keep pattern to the top of the roof cap roof of dormer before you run the main roof courses over the ridge intersection.
When using the 2 foot W-metal for a valley ice and water with 90# is a good underlayment also use cement on the metal under the shingles where the shingles run onto the metal for the valley.
Metal valleys are good for slate and tile roofs and shingle roofs it would be good to match the color of your edge metal drip and facsia.


#11

Wasp, how do you suppose they did it before IWS? I hate to see IWS used as the all time fix-all because of a lack of greater understanding of the trade.


#12

I think it’d be a good idea to disregard Wasp’s post.
Can’t begin to imagine what cement would be doing under, then in a valley.
http://www.roofing.com/images/topics/7502/img_1237894161.jpg
This is a typical valley that never had felt, I&W or anything under it. Went through 2 roofs, 40 years, and it’s only 12" metal. All the shingles had been clipped from point of overlap, straight upp the shingle, parallel to the rafters. No other treatment.

5/12 pitch, tropical storms, and many times under 18"-24" of snow.


#13

I always thought (as with other aspects of the roof) its all about your seam placement. IE, how close your seams are to the valley metal, of course how close your nals are to the center of valley also. When it comes to leak prevention. All though i suppose going the extra mile in cases would be good. IE, ice and water, cutting ears, tar, ect ect


#14

We could disregard your post also the guy was looking for details and i didn’t see anyone give him details on how to,you all act like roofing is a secret and no one likes to share the trade as the one guy said how do you think they did it before ice and water? good point cement and 90# with a couple layers of felt and never nail through a shingle into metal you loose the seal how many times has that been done?


#15

Im sorry i didnt make myself clear, seam work and nail placement seem to be they way some people did it befor ice and water, as i have torn off roofs where the material was in bad shape but still did not leak in the valley i guess SOME people only care about being negative


#16

If when we do a roof recover and they have a valley-for instance a wood roof with an open valley we will fill the valley in with material to level it off to match wood shingles then we will cover the entire valley with either 15 lb or 30 lb. felt the entire length of the valley and then install shingles with a california valley. When we are doing a recover over shingles we will also install shingle underlayment down thru the valley from top to bottom.