Tricky Roof Need Suggestions


#1

The back porch of my house was enclosed leaving a roofing nightmare. See photos.
http://home.midsouth.rr.com/august/roof2.gif
The added on roof was added directly on top of the existing roof and shingles. I have had to every two years or so add patching goop for the leaks. The set up has caused leaks at junctures which then go on top of the roof underneath and into the ceiling in the room that used to be a porch.
http://home.midsouth.rr.com/august/roof1.gif
There are at least three layers of shingles. I’m looking for suggestions. I know the shingles need to come off the whole back but should I change the added on roof? What should be used on the flatter section?


#2

first off, this one is def. not a do it yourselfer… if it were my home, i would strip everything down to the wood deck. then i would replace the rotted areas. Install EPDM rubber which will have only 1 seam in this application. i would run the rubber up 18 inch past wear the shingles will be then i would reshingle with a good 30 year shingle (dont forget the underlayments). once again hire an exdperianced roofing company that does EPDM (not all of us do it) to do this job.


#3

I agree with marshall exteriors on this. Please dont take offense to this. That is what we call a wonderful job. This is certainly a professional only job.


#4

Definitely a do-it-yourself job…if you are a roofer! :lol:

Seriously, you need to hire a roofer for sure, and they are going to have to tear into your shingle roof to tie-in the new low-sloped roof.


#5

hey mphsjim,
wheather you do it yourself or not the question of " should i take the added on structure back off and go with the origanol construction? and what to use?
good question indeed.
makes me think that you are not the dullest tool in the shed.
hmmm.

it is vewry possible that some mr know it all came along witht the bright idea to slope the roof by addin on some rafters and plywood.
ussually i find theese structures to be in worse shape than origanol flat roof.
so . to me, i would evalluate that added on structure and if its good and solid then reuse it, but if its the least bit flimsy, half rotted out at the bottom, then i would recomend gettin rid of it and goin back with deck underneath , get rid a that crap. assumin it is crap.

and what to put on a flat roof?
many types work well.
torchdown modifeid roll roofing , peal n stick roll roofing, poly coatins, foams, pvc roofs, fiberglass roofs, good ole hot tar n gravel. take your pick.

good luck

have a good roofer around . exspecially when usin torch or hot tar.
they are damn good roofs though.

gweedo.


#6

http://home.midsouth.rr.com/august/roof2.gif

http://home.midsouth.rr.com/august/roof1.gif


#7

Classic FUBAR


#8

The added slope was done with 2x6 and 1/2" ply at least in the corner I looked at (because my foot went through it) and it was done over the existing
shingle layers. It seems to me most replies are indicating that the flatter part should be done like a shower pan liner that requires expertise/special tools/knowledgeable crew. It also seems that it would be best to get the added roof off the two layers of shingles,remove those as well and let all three slopes go down to a very slightly sloped flat roof with membrane that goes up under regular shingled sections for a distance. I plan on doing the demo and wood replacing and am looking as to what different roofers say would work for when I talk to bidders for the rest. I know this job is not something all roofers can do, and it looks like it was done wrong three times by the layers.


#9

ouch.
boy you really have a clusterf#*$.
from just lookin at the pics, it does look kinda slaped together
again i would asses weather or not you have a better deck(s) underneath.
it also maybe somethin to ask the roofer your goin to use.
i advise usin one, on this one. he/she may want to save or remove that deckover.

good luck.


#10

Tear it all to the deck and have a licensed qulaified roofer do the install.

There are issues with the areas whereas the flat roof ties into the walls, overhangs, etc. Issues at the gutter detail. the valleys,

There is more detial work in that prospect than most homeowners realize. If your potential roofers do not know how to deal with these issues, then you will probably be best off if you found one that does. Most residential roofers I know could not properly handle the low slope section in a manner conducive to long trouble free service life.


#11

Thanks to all for their input. I accepted a bid for removing all the old roll roofing down to wood and putting on an EPDM roof. Contractor said the other roofing looked fine and as I didn’t have problems with it to leave it they could do the transition no problem. When it needs to be replaced it won’t be a problem to tie it in to the membrane section. $1375 was the bid 5 yr leak warranty for area replaced, 10 yr labor.


#12

Hi,

You got a steal. If it does not leak.

I would not touch that for $1375.

I like doing that kind of work. With all the transitions and tie-ins. I would not do that roof for that price if you could go over the old roof.


#13

Hi,

What good is a 10 year labor warranty?

He will only fix it for 5 years if it leaks.

Am I missing something?


#14

[quote=“Lefty”]Hi,

What good is a 10 year labor warranty?

He will only fix it for 5 years if it leaks.

Am I missing something?[/quote]

hahaha…good point!!!
they have to put thier rubber under at least the first 3 or so courses of shingles. how do they propose to do that without striping the old shingles?


#15

I’ll check with the contractor on how they are going to do the transition, I did ask and forgot the response. I do have on the quote using sbs walley flash in the valleys. Good point on the 5yr 10 yr thing I only noticed the 10 on the quote after he left, we talked about the 5.


#16

[size=150]BIG RED FLAG!!![/size]
someone correct me if im wrong…isnt SBS some kind of petrolium based tar/torch down product? ABSOLUTLY CAN NOT BE COMBINED WITH EPDM RUBBER. they are not compatable and the tar will eat the rubber!! i think the roofer may be telling you that the system he is putting down is rubber and its either a torch down system or its a self adhering system (i.e. liberty) which will lokk like the same system that is in your pictures. in both cases it comes in 3 foot rolls not 10 foot rolls. you have 3 days by law (at least where im at) to back out of a contract, i suggest you do so!!


#17

Make sure they tear it off. How do they plan to attach the EPDM if they do not tear it off?

Make sure they go behind the fascia cladding, behind the siding, dis-assemble all the shingle tie-ins, flash and terminate properly, re-install all siding, shingles, fascia cladding, go behind the gutter and affix, then install the gutter, and then install an apron flashing with a cover strip. Anything else is uncivilzed and throwing money into the fire.


#18

ill do it for not less than 123.5k


#19

123K flat…are these sealed bids?


#20

The material for the valleys is sbs valleyflash, which is a proprietary name. its not a torch material from what I can tell. It may be what they will use when they remove the shingles near the transition but am not certain. THe area to be done will be down to bare wood. THere will be additional labor and matls for any rot repair.