To add a corner piece, I’ll have to get the white paint off (Glidden Gripper which really sticks) and then there is the issue of he solder joint - a lap would be the easiest but could crack. When I did the V’s, I put a “double hem” on them so they would be the female and the cricket would be the male. Hemming he cricket is a PITA. I’d also have to do this after I finally fit to chimney which is another PITA since I’m doing this solo and dodging the weather.
My step flashing is 4x4x8 (using Metric dimensional/architectural).
I don’t know what exposure (if any) the steps should have when covered - doing dormers, a 2in exposure at the bottom is customary (hence the 4in.)
Any comment on running 4in or 6in flashing tape over he 2in chimney flange and up the chimney? Seems like there is controversy over whether ice and water shield should be used around chimney. In my case, since the cricket is an unsupported part, if I I&WS underneath it, that I&WS will take the form of a simple, straight across pan flashing. ( I could install roughed out wood triangles to gie the I&WS a cricket shape but not close enough to support the cricket itself.)
TOO MUCH HEAT: (NOTE: what looks burnt is actually the edge of the paint that was nearby.) It is possible but I was dealing with unidentified rolls of solder from my solder collection and also probably the wrong flux. I ended up using dilute muriatic acid and what I think was 50/50 solder. I was using a 175w iron and could not find my 300w Hexacon iron but was getting frustrated with the slowness. I switched over to oxy-acetylene wth smallest aircraft tip (Smith AW1) and a carburizing flame.
I was nowhere near melting/burning the galvanizing off.
I think the proper flux also has some zinc compound in it. I would not argue that I over heated it. While I’m an expert auto body sheet metal gas welder, I’m still on he learning curve here.