Looking for hot tips to chalk sraight lines
framer showed me triangle method 346
Looking for hot tips to chalk sraight lines
try a product called g tape…google it
once I got used to explaining to my customers why
my roofs were always perfectly straight, and the neighbors looked raggedy…I started to use gtape all the time. If you don’t use gtape, you just don’t care.
If you don’t use G-tape,well he’ll kick your azz,lol.
Buy a tape measure. That’s about as hot a tip as i can give you.
Real roofers use that? I thought that was for HO’s that can’t read a tape!
My jobsite rule: If you cannot recite the 16 increments on the tape measure with out pausing- you are only allowed on the roof to carry a bundle…
I think the Framer meant forming a 90 degree corner or square.
It is 3-4-5 or 6-8-10…
There is a another way…
- First course line find center set nail.
- Pull from nail equal distances along that line set nails at both ends
(any distance is fine).
- Hook a tape on each of these outside nails and when the tapes cross at
any point you will have your square line from your initial center line.
- Mark this intersection and pop your line from first (center) nail across
Personally I like this way better and more accurate as you don’t need to fit in 3,4,5 whereas sometimes there is a obstacle.
Where’s the roofers at?
Oh, vtroofer, i see you.
The OP is looking for vertical lines, a bond line, for three tab shingles.
He isn’t looking for horizontal lines.
The 3-4-5 should have been your clue…
vtroofer, that is the same way i do it.
Even though you can use any measurement to both sides of your mark, i use either 30 inches or 36 inches.
Any measurement smaller than that and it will not be accurate.
Have you ever used the evedrip trick instead of the tape measure to make your cris-cross?
I always measure off drip edge,if the house is not square ,and you snap a square line,it will not look good even though your line is perfect.
The I snap 30, and 36 off soldier course. I try to check how it will end( don’t want a tiny little tab at the end)… if house is older, one side or the other will not look perfect no matter what you do…
On archs…I snap 1 line at the bottom and roll…It is always sweet at the top, This is ok since I shingle alone…I have run next to 1 guy and had same result…Gaf/Elk Archs. run sooooo straight!!! I snap 1st 5 courses if roof is more that 7/12 then it’s free runnin to the top…
I used to snap a line at the bottom,and one in the middle just to check straight mid way, but they run so well I cut out that step…
No to the cris cross using the drip but I get it.
As far as one line and going I don’t. 2 reasons:
The first being the shingle I use almost exclusively is IKO. They are very consistent now but years back they varied in height (without getting into any discussion as to what product is better).
The second is I am 6-5 and its easier for me to take the time to snap lines instead of twisting that far down to see the eyes.
We also do not do 3 tabs here- I charge more for the install offsetting any thought of actually using them in fact I don’t even have a 3 tab sample!
Arch’s look better, better wind load, and on older (sometimes new) buildings they hide imperfections better. Raised tabs from the collation wire will hold a tab up and make your job look not as good as it actually is.
For all you hand nailers out there, it is not always the guns fault- slightly bent heads have the same effect.
The I snap 30, and 36 off soldier course.[/quote]
Try 29 and 35. You might like it. Yes, it is more cutting.
This way, i can install the bond-line as ealier described and it will still look good.
If you use shingles that are inconsistent in size, I would def…go by the bottom,lol…I have not sold a 3 tab roof for 3 yrs.
Tamko shingles I used to snap every other course cause they are so inconsistent.
,and I haven’t sold anything but Gaf/Elk,or Elk in 3 yrs either.
Oh I just remembered a neighbor wanted National blue, so I had to go with IKO, same thing 1 line at bottom, and it looked great… I’ll probably have to re-roof it in a few yrs,lol, but it looks good now and the owner is like 80 yrs old, and laughed about a 30 yr shingle,lol…laughed when I said I don’t use IKO, and said it just has to look good for a few yrs anyway,lol…
allways go off your bottom edge.
usually your horizontal dry in lines will be runnin
strait. so i hook my chaulkline on the edge
metal and then i go to roof peak, then i look down
the line movin it one way till i see its crooked
then i move it the opposite way till its crooked
again then back to the middle, then i snap it.
i allways get a good strait line by snappin it square to the horizontal dry in lines.
There’s this old trick we use,it’s called hand nailing with an AJC fixed gauge hatchet and gauging all your shingles.