Starter rolls


#1

Are these worth purchasing? I am buying 50 year architectural shingles. Is it better to just cut the tab/shingle part off and use that?


#2

cost wise…yes it is less expensive to cut the 3 tabs. i personally dont use the starter rolls. i have never (knock on wood) had a blow off.


#3

Be careful. Some shingles require their own type of starter course. If you’re buying a 50yr shingle I am assuming you want everything to spec as far as the manufacturer is concerned.


#4

I only use metric starter shingles.


#5

Then you must use metric shingles as well.


#6

you can use either as long as the seams are staggered


#7

yep which it would mean maybe cutting each sixth shingle or so .

Starter roll are harder to keep straight then starter shingles unless you chalk a line for it .

Starter shingles have the adeshive strip to help hold in place


#8

Back in the day when I installed my own roofs I used starter rolls. I thought they were great, just had to make sure there were not matching seams from the starter and the first corse of shingles.


#9

Its all we use. Starter shingles that is.


#10

either is good,unless the mfgr. requires their own stuff


#11

Im not too sure what king of shingle your talking baout but if its the three tab i uses most time you can use the whole shingle. Ive even seen some slacker use double lamanant shingles and not cut them.
Im still doing houses in the same area and haven t seen a problem. YET. Although i know if you do that on the up slope over time they will bind up nad look fugly. We most time use threetabs but other time use a special startes strip desiged for starter.
Ive even seen houses out in manatoba that dont even have starter strips or anything.


#12

I use Elk starter 'cause the Atlas is out of stock. Difference is about $ 3.00 per bundle.

In the long run, you’ll save $$ by going with starter because one bundle of starter covers 120 linear ft. vs. end to end in a regular bundle of 3T (yeah, I know it’s easier to just order a boatload of 3T for hip 'n ridge + starter). In the long run, you’ll end up saving money if you can hang on to the scraps of starter you don’t use on prior jobs. If you can, go so far as to build a wooden box to collect & save the starter in.

I just feel it’s so much better to use ‘true’ starter vs. cutting the tips off of 3Tab & your crew will like you a lot better, too.

As for starter ROLL, I can’t seem to get my local supply house to even order one roll for me to try. I would think that it’s faster to run starter all the way across an eave or up a rake than to piece out individual portions as you go.

As for getting it lined up right, provided you have two people installing it, why not have one end held in place, unroll it with a bit of extra length on there (trim correct later), pull to tight-lined up properly- & tack / nail each end. Nail in 2" from edge every 9" or so (whatever mfg. specs call for) & then you’re done for the full length on that portion.

On two occasions, guys on my crew (who I didn’t have before) used 3T because I was trying to burn up extra ‘off color’ product (Surf Blue on one & Forest Green on another). They didn’t trim the tips & when I noticed (too late) that a LOT had been installed without the starter type layout, I had them go back & lift / re-seat the outside with tube mastic.

One area of it being 'not so important" is if you have a quality 30 year type shingle & the 3T is nailed within 2" of the outside… 'cause the 30 yr. has the sticky pointing DOWN, not UP like on 3T.

But I DO want to try the roll (especially if it’s within a buck or so of the cost of ‘regular’ starter).


#13

We used to use scrap three tabs but we hardly buy three tabs at all anymore. Have been getting the precut starters, I like them a lot because it has a nice factory edge and the self seal adheasive. we overhang our eaves 1/2" off the drip edge, rakes have no drip edge but starters are overhung 3/4", glue edge always out of course.

RooferJim


#14

We always use scrapped shingles for starter unless it’s on a Golden Pledge job. Those we will order the GAF starters for. I mean you always have a bundle or two left over from this job or that also repairs where you have left over. We constantly have stacks of shingle left over it’s just the easiest way to get rid of them.


#15

MonkeyBoy (lol), what’s a “Golden Seal” job?

& We always use starter on the rakes. You can get high winds or wind driven rain from the rake direction of a roof just as easy as on other slopes.


#16

99.9% of all the reroofs are laminate jobs. Three tabs have pretty much gone by the wayside, only time we would do them is an addition or somthing but its very rare. I remember when they had a 15year three tab on the market and guys would hand nail it for five dollars a bundle times have changed.

RooferJim


#17

[quote=“RanchHandRoofing”]MonkeyBoy (lol), what’s a “Golden Seal” job?

[/quote]

“golden pledge” is a GAF manufacture warranty that can only be given by a master elite installer. you must use [size=150]ALL[/size] GAF products


#18

Yes, Marsh is correctamundo. We sell tons of Golden Pledge jobs. It’s an awesome marketing tool but for the few extra dollars it’s a lot of extra headache. For instance GAF wants a cricket behind every chimney in this area, we use only copper. Now you add on 2k or whatever for a pair of crickets and it may mean losing the job, or do you eat part of it to get the job… GP warranty is like 450.00? Doesn’t come near covering a cricket plus the extra Ice barrier and all the other time consuming stuff GAF asks for. GAF will then send someone to inspect the roof, lol. It’s a headache but being able to offer GP does sell jobs.

As far as using only GAF products, you’re technically right there. We were told we can use Ever-Flo eave vent although the GAF warranty won’t cover non-GAF materials. I’m pretty sure GAF offers soffit style vents but not eave vents at this time.


#19

We also do some Golden Pledge waranties. I don’t go out of my way to sell them but its a card in the deck as they say.

RooferJim GAF # ME-00058


#20

ny-10939