Soldering vertical flatlock


#1

I can do it but its a slow process. I’m using a pyramid shaped tip sucks for this I’m waiting on a chisel tip. I know flux in side the lock is important I use the tip iron pointing down and load the edge than I draw the solder into the joint placing the iron on the high side after that I dip to cool the iron and start at the top pulling down quickly to clean it up. Anyone have any tricks for verticals?


#2

About the same. I start at the botom and work up.
I follow Revere’s recommendation and along walls, I use a 10’L. by 4" wide piece. Only diff, is I use up abour 3" on the end by folding a double lock, instead of a single. Almost eliminates any chance of a leak on the vertical.
Pretinning is a prequisite to a good joint. Currently, I often use 2 Sieverts and one is set at 90. All I have to do is push it against the joint and let her heat up. Some work here.
http://rcs.si-sv2628.com/show_album_photo.asp?userid=30&AlbumID=92&file=593&s=0
I only figure 1/2 sq a day for flat-lock roofing.


#3

that really is some sweet work you all do. All you metal guys.


#4

I like the velux flashing how do you reglaze them or can you get copper clad velux?


#5

Tinner how can you double lock box gutters? Bend both sides up first like a standing seam than beat them over when done? Another thing when I lock my seams I was taught to hem both over and lock the bottom first than one side and pull the other side a little loose than I bend the other side back and push it in. Someone told me to try bending the bottom a little longer than the sides so it was easier to lock the sides by pulling back a little


#6

I didn’t knwo we were talking gutters. i assumed a flat roof. I single lock BIG’s. Hoping to get one I recently bid on.

Velux makes copper cladding. The rear counter is my own, and locked in place with cleats like I do on all Velux. I seldom, if ever nail in the sides of those.