Soffit Vents: What should I use / What do you charge?


#1

I did a fast drive-by for a house that’s lacking on the intake side for NFA.

Gabled, closed soffits but no intake vents on the low side (does have gable vents).

30 year roof; no idea how old it is.

I am thinking the addition of louvered vents provided I can see through the attic space clear through to the tips of the eaves & it’s not stuffed with blown or rolled insulation. Otherwise, I may suggest a GAF solar powered intake booster or three.

So, questions for the floor:

  1. I’m thinking a RotoZip. Screw 1x4’s in a smaller rectangle to use as a guide, then use a RotoZip to carve my rectangle (again, smaller than the screened vents), then install. I am thinking that a SawzAll is going to be way too wiggy & will run out offline (same for a jigsaw upside down). Besides, this gives me an excuse to get a new tool & that’s always a good thing. :wink: Maybe run just to the near end of my lines & carefully finish off with the Zip or maybe a Jigsaw @ this point?
  2. What would you charge for a 1 story elevation?
    2a. What would you charge for a 2 story (it’s on a slope with the street side level & back wall set higher from the ground).
  3. What kind of spacing do you suggest (on average) to get proper NFA?
  4. Would you skip the individual louvered vents & instead go for something like a Hardie continuous soffit vent?
    *3 & 4 Are assuming there’s no insulation blockage @ the header / load bearing wall. If it’s blocked, I’m going to suggest the solar powered intake vents.

Thanks, y’all.


#2

Gotta run out the door; busy day. We use this everflovent.com/pro_inhaler.html


#3

I presume you are stripping off the old roof and if so, I like the Smart Vent from DCI Products, In.

Here is a link;

dciproducts.com/html/smartvent.htm

I quote it an an included feature in our quotes the makority of the time and I believe that this helps to seperate us from the rest of the crowd who do not properly address the intake ventilation scenario.

BUT!!!

For cripes sake. Buy the new tool anyway!

Ed


#4

vs.

No, I don’t think this is an entire new roof scenario…

I got the call from the customer, however I haven’t had the time to do an inspection or have a meet n greet.

The EverFlow won’t work if this house has it’s eaves packed with insulation as mentioned AND I think it’s not a tear off / re-roof… I dont want to remove the 2 lower courses.

Again:
2. What would you charge for a 1 story elevation?
2a. What would you charge for a 2 story (it’s on a slope with the street side level & back wall set higher from the ground).
3. What kind of spacing do you suggest (on average) to get proper NFA?


#5

I charge 15.00 per hole for a one story and 25.00 per hole for two story homes, but that is when it is being done along with the roofing work we would be doing.

Ed


#6

Ed, how do you cut yours out? I was also thinking of making a template out of a piece of 3/4" in a rectangle & screw it up through the center of the area I want to extract, then use the edge guide on the 'Zip to cut out my hole.


#7

I use a hole saw for the round min-louver vents and either a jig-saw or a swas-all for rectangular vent holes, with a very short blade to decrease the vibration.

You method that you described would seem to work just as well. How long will the roto-zip bits last to cut out a large quantity of holes?

Ed


#8

Don’t know, Ed… don’t have a Zip. I guess I could charge “X” amount for the time, effort, degree of difficulty (2 story vs. 1, no scaffolding, etc). & have a minimum travel charge in there PLUS add for @ least one pack of RotoZip blades every soffit job.

I do have a SawzAll, but haven’t used it with short blades. I may have to try that lil’ trick out.