Should I go with a 30 year or 40 year Timberline?


#1

Hello, I am looking for opinions on which route to go on for a new roof.

I am going to install it myself but is it worth going to the 40 year shingle?

I am trying to decide between the Timberline Prestique HD 30 or the Timberline Prestique HD 40.

I guess the ride cap shingles I am buying are 30 year, so would I be wasting my money going with a 40 year shingle then capping it with a 30 year ridge? Cost difference is a little over 600 bucks total b/n the 30 vs. 40.

Thanks in advance!
Pat


#2

Hope you are in good shape, as I recall the 40 year are bumping 100 lbs per bundle and are 4 bundles per square. Personally, I would go with the 30 year with timbertex ridge.GAF all the way. Oh, and have a nice day.


#3

Not much difference between 30 and 40 yr, looks or performance wise.


#4

How long do you intend to keep the house? I would look @ it more from an investment perspective… a ‘typical’ home buyer won’t know the difference between (& care much about) whether you went with a 30 or 40 year shingle.

As to a 30 year cap vs. 40 year field, did you know that most 30 year roofing jobs get 20 year seams? (hip & ridge are typically 3 tab unless otherwise specified).


#5

40"s are a waste of money. Go with the 30. Either way, after 20 years you will need a new roof.


#6

Thanks for the input guys. I do plan on staying in this house for a good long time, hopefully longer than the roof.

Oh, and yeah, I plan on going with the Timbertex Ride. That’s why I was wondering if I went with a 40 year shingle, why would I put on a 30 year cap. Thanks again, I will go with the 30 year. And, I am getting them placed on the roof! don’t want to hump 'em up a ladder!


#7

I have seen cracks in both 30 and 40 year Timberlines at 10 years. As a matter of fact have yet to see a Timblerline roof 10+ years without any cracks. Of course there nothing like the old three tabs days. The cracks are more isolated to just below or above the shingle butts in random areas.

The Timbertex ridge is some of the thickest ridge on the market. Recently was on a Timblerline 50 year roof at 20 years and some of the Timbertex ridge had no granuals left. There was still another layer of ridge under the ones with no granuals.

I’ve recenlty bought some 40 year shingles only due to the fact that the 30’s were out of stock and the cost was only a few bucks more per square.

Actually the 40’s are easy to carry as you have 4 bundles per square at 265 lbs per square. 66.25 lbs per bundle.

From the ground you cannot tell a 30 and 40 year shingle apart. You can tell a 30 and 50 year shingle apart though.


#8

[quote=“dougger222”]I have seen cracks in both 30 and 40 year Timberlines at 10 years.
Actually the 40’s are easy to carry as you have 4 bundles per square at 265 lbs per square. 66.25 lbs per bundle.
[/quote]

Two questions please? 

Have you seen similar cracks in certenteed laminates? I’m trying to decide between timberline and landmarks?
My local roofing supply told me 40 year timberlines weigh 300 lbs per square and 30 years weigh 240 lbs per?
I want to keep the load on the roof as light as possible so was thinking i’d go with 30 year but 265 is not much more than 240 if you are sure about that weight? Does anyone know the actual weight of certainteed landmark 30 and 40 year shingles for comparison?
Thanks, DaveB


#9

I have a strong opinion on the subject.
But i have already expressed it here and i dont want it to look like i am ganging up on a manufacture.

Whatever you choose, 30,40 or whichever maker,
Do not base that decision on the weight of different architect shingles.
All those are going to be close and not an issue.

The very best shingle installed by an uncaring worker
is junk compared to a caring worker with a much lesser product. So thats First.

You want to go with whichever one you think is the better maker of the shingle. Thats Second.

weight of the shingle isn’t even on the list.
Unless…
Do you have a low pitch **4/12 **or less?
Now you have a problem.
But it aint because of the weight.

Meet face to face with several
State Roofing Contractors.


#10

roof-lover, in both this & other threads, when you say “state roofing contractors”, do you really mean “state licensed roofing contractors”, i.e. one that has passed a state licensure exam & carries all the required paperwork & documentation for that particular state?

If so, please keep in mind that not all states require licensure.

Your ID doesn’t list where YOU are located, however here in Texas there is NO such state licensure requirement.


#11

PB

From a homeowners prospective! I went with a 50 year shingle over a 30 year shingle due to appearance and wind resistance! If you look at a 30 year shingle next to a 50 year shingle at an angle - you will see how much thicker it is!

I dont argue with the experts here about a 30 and 40 year lasting the same length of time BUT - I will tell you that that appearance of my roof next to all my neighbors is much better (in my eyes) The shingles are much thicker and in my case looks great due to this - many 40 - 50 year shingles also have a bolder shadow line, therefor also giving it a better look!

So - im my case, the extra few hundred dollars was money well spent as I love the LOOK of my roof! and have the piece of mind that that the shingles have a higher wind resistance (if its true)

Good Luck!


#12

[quote=“RanchHandRoofing”]How long do you intend to keep the house? I would look @ it more from an investment perspective… a ‘typical’ home buyer won’t know the difference between (& care much about) whether you went with a 30 or 40 year shingle.

As to a 30 year cap vs. 40 year field, did you know that most 30 year roofing jobs get 20 year seams? (hip & ridge are typically 3 tab unless otherwise specified).[/quote]

The exact same question I was going to ask!

Here are the two pertinent questions:

  1. How long do you plan on keeping the house, and
  2. How old are you?

Answer:

  1. If you plan on keeping the house for at least another 20+ years, you may want to consider the 40’s.
  2. If you are 45 or older, go with the 30’s. :shock:

#13
Two questions please? 

Have you seen similar cracks in certenteed laminates? I’m trying to decide between timberline and landmarks?
My local roofing supply told me 40 year timberlines weigh 300 lbs per square and 30 years weigh 240 lbs per?
I want to keep the load on the roof as light as possible so was thinking i’d go with 30 year but 265 is not much more than 240 if you are sure about that weight? Does anyone know the actual weight of certainteed landmark 30 and 40 year shingles for comparison?
Thanks, DaveB[/quote]

I have not seen cracks in the Certainteed Landmark line, nor have I heard of 1 warranty claim with that line of shingle. Going back 10+ years the Landmark was made in English specs but since then the shingles have only gotten better. Here in Minnesota the Shakopee shingles are produced with a number of 3M inovations. Of course all contractors can agree on the fact that Certainteed has had it’s issues with deffective shingle, mainly in the organic line.

Every region’s shingle weight will vary.

Here are Certainteeds weights for the North Central Shakopee, MN plant

Landmark 30=245lbs per square
Landmark 40=265lbs per square (Plus)
Landmark 50=300lbs per square (Premium)
Landmark TL Ultimate=340lbs per square, 110mph for 10 years

Wind warranties are,
30=70mph for 5 years
40=80mph for 5 years
50=90mph for 10 years

My conpany is a Shingle Master company and we are able to give a 4 Star warranty at $3 per square which brings the Landmark 30 wind warranty to 110mph for 5 years. We run the Certainteed Swift Start on both the eaves and rakes. The $3 per square also brings the Sure Start warranty from 5 to 15 years.

What I do know is in some regions the Landmark Premiums can weight as much at 330 lbs per square.


#14

I have had no issues with Landmarks, Ever…


#15
Hi roof-lover, I'll be doing the shingling myself so I'll do as good a job as I possibly can. I put three tabs on there 25 years ago and maybe got lucky but had no leaks. 

I doubt I’ll be able to form an informed opinion of the quality of the brands in my limited time as a “roofer”. :>) Timberline and Landmark are two styles that seem popular here in Central Ca.
This is earthquake country not wind country so my thought was go as light as possible because a lot of weight up high stresses the house in a big shaker. My old 3 tabs were probably lighter than the 30 year Landmarks or Timberlines? I’m putting on Titanium UDL30 to cut down on the underlayment weight and to give me some extra time for shingling by myself.
We have one wing that has a 3/12 pitch but it never caused any problems with the old three tabs and 30 lb felt. Do you think the newer laminated shingle will cause a problem on the 3/12 where the three tabs worked fine?
Regards, DaveB