Shingle vent 2 wrinkles?


#1

Hi All, Last evening I nailed on some
shingle vent 2,this after noon I went up to add the ridgeglas cap shingles and found the shingle vent 2 was all wavy and bowed up between the nails. Has anyone seen this happen? It was cool when I nailed it on and is hot now so maybe it bucked from expansion? Perhaps I should pull the nails and add a little gap between the sections? Do y’all thing it will stay flat once the ridge shingles are applied? They will be nailed every 8 inches, as it is now there are only 4 pair of nails per section.
Regards, DaveB


#2

Post a pic showing how you put it on.
It will ripple a little if there are no cap shingles on it.
It also needs to be applied with a slight arch.


#3

or maybe you didn’t see what you were doing because it was done in the evening? :mrgreen:

just kidding

never had that happen to me before.Can you post a pic/


#4

The installation instructions tell you to leave a gap between each section to prevent buckling from expansion and contraction.

How long of a roofing nail length did you use?

Ed


#5

[quote=“ed the roofer”]The installation instructions tell you to leave a gap between each section to prevent buckling from expansion and contraction.

How long of a roofing nail length did you use?[/quote]

Hi Ed, It says leave a gap in cold weather. I installed it at about 65 degrees air temp last evening and it wrinkled up when it got to about 75 degrees air temp today but the actual shingle vent 2 was undoubtedly much hotter due to the afternoon sun on it’s black plastic. It straightened out again this evening after the sun when lower. I think I’ll pull the nails and renail it with a little slack before adding the ridge cap shingles. I only have 1/4 of it installed so not much effort required to re-do it.
I used 2 inch nails thru the initial locating holes but will probably need about 2 1/2 inch to go thru the rideglas caps and the shingle vent 2. My roof sheathing is 1/2 inch 5 ply plywood. I think it will stay down once I have the ridgeglas shingles nailed on at 8 inch centers, I could push it down even when it was hot and buckled up today.
Regards, DaveB


#6

2 1/2" minimum should help out. It is still wise to leave a 1/8" gap between each 4 foot section, regardless of the current temperatures.

Are you nailing on every spot indicated, or skipping some for convenience?

I never noticed that problem occurring for us after about 17 years of installing that brand product.

Ed


#7

With capping you are needing a 3 inch nail. That is the norm around my parts for ridge vent installs.


#8

You didnt do anything at all with those 2 nails.

Eds right. 2 1/2 roofing nails.

Stretching the vent and laying it is an art form.
as silly as that sounds.

I usually dont but
pop a line so you can lay it straight.

I install my ridge vent in a similar(stretching) manner that i would install my closed valley, valley metal.


#9

Unless you are the clowns that did MY roof…1 1/2" nail gun nails.

…hence why my ridgevents are coming the hell off. :roll:


#10

Its because its black and yes you should put in arch pre-bend the vent before you put it down I use the Extractor its really nice low profile 4’ nail over and you use 1 3/4" gunnable nails but I got my own ringed shank 1 3/4s because some times the vent on a 12 pitch will lift a little


#11

Are you just spot nailing it to hold it in place, and then using the ridge cap nails to fasten it the remainder of the way? If so this may be your problem. I have personally seen the problem your describing, when it is installed in that fashion. Four foot sections of ridge vent needs to be nailed on before nailing on cap shingles or your ridge vent will be malformed. I know it takes more time to install it this way, but it will fix your problem. I would also like to add this is not a Shinglevent II specific problem, I have seen this problem with GAF Snow Country, and Mid America Ridge Master Plus.


#12

there are several problems with shinglevent 2. one is over time the baffel resembles spagetti. another is it tends to get filled with pine needles in wooded area. I stoped using it and switched back to standard cobra. A lot of our jobs are right on the ocean and I want to avoid any issues.


#13

Hi Guys, Well I pulled the first sections off and renailed them with longer nails then added the ridgecap shingles with 3 inch nails and it pulled down just fine.While I had it off I added some wire bee screen just in case the fiberglass baffle doesn’t hold up. I don’t think I even need to caulk it, the gaps where the architectal shingles are lower are pretty narrow, less wide than the intake slots in the vent so unless rain tries to blow up under the exterior baffle I don’t see any reason to caulk it? Thanks for all the advice given so far, my roof is looking fine!
Regards, DaveB