Shingle starter strip


#1

Help I had someone help me do the roof.
when I got home from work
he had forgot to install a starter strip
now I have ice and water shield underneath but
this will wear through eventually.
can I cut starter strip and install to just cover the tabs
I would hate to try and pull all those nails and risk damaging the first row of shingles
does the starter need to be have such large header as I could just fit a starter strip in and seal it at the edge


#2

Take two or three photos for us.

One, @ a distance that shows the majority of the house (this will help us to see what the total picture is like & if you have any areas of special concern).

Two, up kinda close (like within 3 or 4 feet) that shows the design0 of your edge as well as what type of shingle you have on there now.

Three, lift the edge of your shingle & show us (from around 1 to 2 feet away) what the nailing pattern & other relevant issues might be.

If you have a dimensional shingle, this will be a more difficult task but it CAN be done. If you have 3T’s, then this is an easier process due to the flexibility of the individual tabs (just don’t bend it too far up or you’ll end up with a permanent crack). You may be able to get by with a simple crowbar & the benefit of a 3T is the sticky line faces UP on the top of a shingle, therefore no sticking to the roof deck / peel & stick / I & W. If you have a dimensional, the sticky line faces down from the bottom of the solid band shingles & the ice & water shield won’t release from the shingle above it quite as easily as a granulated shingle surface would.

While time consuming, this is a somewhat easy process & if you have a single story house with an “average” height eave, you should be able to safely rig up two A frame ladders & make a catwalk to work back & forth from.

Also, invest in some ‘real’ starter, not a 3Tab that’s been trimmed back (or even not trimmed @ all). The true starter strips will be narrower & fit much more easily than having to take up a 2nd course of nails if you use a simple flipped around 3T.

I recommend removing the first line of nails, then inserting the starter strip, nailing the starter as instructed by the mfg (usually within 1-2" from the outside edge) & then nailing your shingle back down. If you have a proper catwalk set up, you should be able to do this around 6’ or so @ a time.


#3

You might not want to pull the nails but you will have to, you may cut some off the starter so you don’t have to pull the second coarse of nails too, just don’t cut too much.

Like Ranch said , you can buy real starters that are narrower so you won’t have to trim it.


#4

Bush, IMO if he doesn’t remove the lower course of nails & instead trims back (whatever form of) starter to a depth that lets him tuck a starter up there, he will still have an issue with water & sunlight penetrating the keyways on a 3T & butt edges of a dimensional AND a 3T.

Those nails have to come out.


#5

You chose not to use a professional.
If your “roofer” didn’t know how to do this most simple detail, than i would suspect your whole roof is messed up.

You need to “Flatbar” the bottem row of nails.
First you have to flatbar the second row of shingle tabs up. Do it in the morning when the shingles are not gooey. Use the flatbar in a rythmic chipping motion and the shingle will easily come up.
Don’t put the flatbar right at the nail and try to get it out.

go under the whole shingle aiming at the nail.

You really need a professional to do this for you.


#6

[quote=“RanchHandRoofing”]Bush, IMO if he doesn’t remove the lower course of nails & instead trims back (whatever form of) starter to a depth that lets him tuck a starter up there, he will still have an issue with water & sunlight penetrating the keyways on a 3T & butt edges of a dimensional AND a 3T.

Those nails have to come out.[/quote]

Thats right, he will have problems if he dosen’t at least pull the first coarse of nails and he can cut some off the starter to slide it in without pulling the second coarse of nails.

I find starters split over split on deminionals all the time, but I can’t say I’ve seen too many with no starter at all. :?


#7

Hi,

What style shingles did you install?

The remedy will be different.


#8

Or, you can cut 7" long by about 4" wide strips of a similar colored aluminum and cut the top part into a skinny arrow head taper.

Slide the metal in and up at every slot cut-out if it is a 3-tab and at every side butt end joint regardless of the style of shingle.

Wiggle the metal so that you get past any nails directly above the path desired and that may require a bit more tin snipping to narrow the leading edge to get past that.

These strips can either be secured with construction adhesive under them to the deck sheathing, if no felt paper is applied, and it “Should” (?) work to adhere to the Ice and Water Shield, or you can “Gently” lift up the shingles far enough to get 2 trim nails in them, but NOT in the path of the side butt joint or the slot cut-outs.

This way, you will not have to remove the nails.

Next time, read the instructions on the bundle wrapper.

Ed


#9

if your just missing a starter strip but have ice and
water sheild under the first shingle, then yes you may make it worse tryin to fix it.

wait and see what it does in the rain.
mite last forever, ive seen crazier things happen.

gweedo.


#10

Gweedo, it will not last. 3 months tops. Its not designed with uv rays in mind. I would be figuring out a way to make the starter fit in there. 1 thing is for sure do NOT reuse any shingle you remove.


#11

Just get a shingle bar and remove the nails from the first course, slide your starter in and nail it all back together.
It is pretty easy…


#12

ed why not remove the nails and put the starter in right.the other way is just hack.


#13

[quote=“crashy2k”]
can I cut starter strip and install to just cover the tabs
I would hate to try and pull all those nails and risk damaging the first row of shingles
does the starter need to be have such large header as I could just fit a starter strip in and seal it at the edge[/quote]

Because from the sound of things, this OP had no clue in the beginning and no faith currently in how to do a proper repair as others have suggested and is probably too cheap to pay someone to do the correct job.

See, I responded to your legitimate question in this thread. Don’t hold a grudge. okay.

Ed


#14

You calling Ed a hack,IKO boy?Ed forgot more than you know and is a very respectable roofer and a moderator on many forums.Have some respect…


#15

He’s just having a little fun from an IKO comment in another thread John.

No harm done.

Ed


#16

:shock:


#17

I doubt there’s much on here that Ed takes that seriously.

Srsly


#18

:badgrin:


#19

by pulling those nails you pretty much ruin the whole concept of the ice barrier. it will not seal a hole where a nail USED to be. yes it probably wont allow water to leak inside the house but it could allow water to leak inside of the facia and the bottom edge of the eaves. i would plug the wholes in the ice and water with a hand nail and dab a little cement on each one then install starter and a fresh row of shingles.

But guys like me are a dime a dozen i am told.


#20

Golly, Empie… whatever did this site do before you graced us with your insight?

Me, I didn’t happen to think of this 'cause I’m not in a cold weather region & we only use I&W for select waterproofing applications vs. ‘warm wall’ situations like y’all.