Runoff flows behind gutter


#1

Hi all,

I have a new professionally installed roof and I am finding that in several places water runoff flows behind my gutters instead of dripping off the shingles and into the gutter. The end of the shingles is flush with the edge of the drip edge and what seems to be happening is that water runs off the roof and flows AROUND the edge of the shingles and down the face of the drip edge and then down the fascia instead of dripping off and falling into the gutter.

Seems to me the easiest way to fix this is to slide some flashing between the shingles and the ice dam membrane. Leave about an inch showing beyond the edge of the shingles and possibly bend it down slightly and water should drip off as it is supposed to. Is there any down side to doing this?

Paul


#2

the problem is because the face of the drip edge is behind the gutter instead of in front of it…if the gutter sits lower than the face of the drip edge get some slats of aluminum and run it behind the drip edge into the gutter. dont put anything under the shingles or you will ruin the seal.


#3

What Marshall exteriors said. I will also state that you didn’t have a professionally installed roof put on if they didn’t counterflash the back leg of gutter with the drip edge.


#4

A previous roofer tried putting flashing under the drip edge and into the gutters ten years ago when he worked on it. Yes the gutters sit about an inch or two below the lower edge of the drip edge so if water does run down the face of the drip edge it runs behind the gutters. However, the gutter nails are close enough to the top of the gutter and to the drip edge that it is difficult to get flashing up under the drip edge. I could cut the flashing into short sections and try that.

But how do I ruin the seal if the flashing is slid under the shingles and not far enough to break any seal. It only has to go up about an inch or two to stay in place.

I do like the idea of flashing behind the drip edge facia… I’ll se if I can do that neatly. But I have to wonder if it would have worked better to extend the shingles an inch or so PAST the drip edge.

Paul


#5

of that this home had the shingles put on wrong and water got in behind and down the facia along the soffit down the garage wall froze broke the brick and morter and the block foundation wall bigtime.

To stall for a bit last year I stuffed in some home depot eve starter or drip edge. WHen I viewed it working 20 percent of the water went down off the bottom then down the facia and behind the eve.

I took pliers and bent it out at the bottom edge, it looked like crap but all the water went into the eve.

This drip or starter I bought is rake edge at the bottom. I dont see putting the gutter under the drip edge completely with the slope it will have if I tried to cram it way up under the drip the screws would end up running into the rake edge at some point and also the rake edge would be in the way of the eve mounting brackets in some places

I would never buy that drip edge from the home depot weather the eve is supposed to be under it or not. If the eve is under below the drip edge rather than in behind it the screws will not have to perforate it all as well, not sure about the end result but seems some water can wick in there once a screw goes through both of them.

I saw it go from working to not working by bending the bottom edge so I made sure I found a drip edge with a rake at the bottom for the home now.

Also the guys here have stated the shingles should overhang the drip edge by 1/2" if i remember correct, think the shingle master guide said 1/4-1/2 but have to check that so dont quote me on that. It has been stated I just forget.

Warren

Warren


#6

you will break the seal strip on the first course of shingles (unless you go under the starter shingle) this strip is what keeps your shingle from blowing off in the wind. i dont like to hang my shingles over because the drip edge already kicks them out about a 1/2" they will sag with time, and if you ever stick a ladder against them they will break.


#7

Good point about breaking the shingles with a ladder if they overhang the drip edge. However, on my roof there isn’t any place a ladder would touch that doesn’t have a gutter outboard of the shingles.

The main trouble here is the Coanda effect… the water runs around the edge of the shingle and then around the edge of the drip edge because the two edges are flush with each other, forming a rather blunt edge. I have watched it in the rain.

So it looks like the choices are… extend the edge of the shingles with a bit of flashing so that water is less likely to run around the much sharper edge or put flashing under the drip edge and over the inside of the gutter. I’ll have to look at the starter row… I didn’t realize it was sealed to the roof right at the drip edge. Is the starter row a cut off shingle such that the asphalt strip is over the drip edge? If so, I can see how sliding flashing uder it would break the seal.

This has to be a common problem unless the shingles really should not be flush with the drip edge.


#8

your roof needs flashing on top of the gutter brackets or farrels and under the drip edge just as another roofer here said. I barely paid attention to what you said another roofer did and failed with. If the metal goes under the drip edge and goes over the gutter its over. Additionally, I do caulk the backside of the gutter before I put that flashing in for good measure.


#9

The problem here is the fact that they used drip edge instead of apron. Drip edge is for the rakes, apron is for the drain edge, gutter or no gutter.

Change it to an apron (custom if need be) and your troubles will be solved.

If youre having problems on the rakes edges, then you will most likely be looking at shignles trimmed to the drip edge instead of running past.


#10

between drip adge and apron. I have seen two styles of drip in the Certainteed book, one went out from the home then down and a rake the other just went down and a rake

Thanks,

Warren


#11

“I will also state that you didn’t have a professionally installed roof put on if they didn’t counterflash the back leg of gutter with the drip edge”.

ouh dont do it cerb, busted em rite in the head.

table scraps, nothin left for me but table scraps.

gweedo.


#12

You need the single-bend L shaped kind (preferably with a hem or kick in the gutter, which makes it more than one bend, but I think you get it).